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POSSIBLY faulty door seals allowing outside moisture to enter freezer compartment. This is especially prevalent in older units and/or tropical climate zones [ie high humidity] ... OR if freezer is OVER-LOADED with food items !!!
If you are putting in large quantities of fresh produce to be frozen it is quite often better to PRE-COOL all the items in your refrigerator PRIOR to placing in your FREEZER as they will usually have a high moisture content which will cause frost build-up in your freezer ...
Many things that could cause the problem First if you just plugged it or have little in it, it will run for a long time. Next check if if it is cooling properly place a thermometer in a liquid it the refrigerator compartment it should read around 42 degrees. If it is warm in the refrigerator compartment Look at the freezer back wall for frost buildup If you have frost on the back wall, you will need to defrost it and repair the defrost circuit. This is a. Common problem on GE models If the temperature is good in the fresh food compartment you will probably need to replace the thermostat or cold control
one of 2 things can be wrong,#1) if theres a heavy frost buildup on the rear inside wall of the freezer compartment then its a defrost issue,which will block air flow to the refrigerator side,take off back panel and test defrost heater and thermostat both on evaporator coil for continuity,thermostat has to be below 32 degrees to test good,most of the time its the hearter on G.E.. #2)if no frost buildup,then check the damper vent door between the freezer and refrigerator compartments and make sure its not stuck or broken shut and can no longer open and close to keep temperatures in refrigerator cold
If the freezer is cold the compressor is Ok. Now if its a two door fridge . Open both the doors while the fridge is On. Press the lower door switch ( the lower light should turn off and you should hear the fan humming sound come on ). While holding the door switch pressed close the freezer door, you should see cold air come out of the slits in the back of the lower compartment. If not icicles have blocked the passages due to the non working of the heating coil.The heating cycle is controlled by the timer switch located near the compressor at the back. Unplug the fridge and remove the timer switch.Note the color of the wires and mark on the old switch. Replace and it will work.Only frost free fridges have heating cycle
Frost is a natural occurrence on the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. To prevent frost buildup, a self-defrosting refrigerator warms the coils using a defrost heater several times each day to melt away the frost. This frost melts into water and flows out of the compartment through the drain. If any part of the defrost system is not working properly, the result can be heavy frost buildup that may affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator.
The defrost timer is a mechanism that tells the defroster how long to run to melt the frost. The limit switch measures the temperature in the freezer and helps to maintain it, while the heater is the key element that melts the frost. Any one of these components could need replacement at a given time, which will result in this over-frosting. Also check this bellow link:-
check the defrost heater in the evaporator compartment at the rear of the freezer for continuity,then check your defrost control if the heater is o.k. be it either an adaptive defrost or a timer type defrost control
If the frozen side is colder than normal and some extra frost is forming where the fan blows,and there is ice in the bottom of freezer compartment, and the cool side is not cool enough, their is a good possability the defrosting unit is not removing all the frost and ice . the defrosting unit has a timer (usually near thermostat) that turns off the cooling fan and compressor and turns on a small heater around the evaporator ( about 20 minutes every 2 days) (evaporaror is cold heat exchanger coil inside the back wall behind a cover near the recirculating fan0, the fan circulates air to both compartments through two small openings, if these openeing are closed by ice buildup cool air can not circulate to the cool side. cure 1. remove all food and leave fridge off for 24 hours with doors open (take precautions to ensure children can't get locked in side and suffocate, if you get a qt of water in bottom of unit (may leak on floor) ice buildup that the defrost heater can not remove melted and was your problem . turn frig on replace food on unit. cure 2. turn frig off, remove food from both sides, remove shelves that block access to evaporator, remove cover over evaporator if you see the evaporator coils free of ice look at openings (2) to other side, one may be blocked with ice the other with frost, carefully melt ice with hair dryer.
If the evaporator coil is solid ice heater or timer or fan has failed. good luck
Check the back wall of the freezer compartment for snow or frost buildup. Fan running would indicate that the temperature of the coil which cools is cold. If you find a frost buildup on the back wall you more than likely have a problem in the system defrost circuit. You need a service tech.
From your description, you have a bad evaporator fan motor. The part number for a replacement motor is #5304445861.This is not a direct replacement but is more reliable.Remove everything in the freezer, take off the back panels and you will see the fan.
If there is a large frost buildup on the coils and the fan is turning you have a defrost problem. If that is the case, please call me at 334-347-0000 and I will walk you through it.