Question about Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools
I am trying to replace the traction lever where the drive cable from the transmission attaches to,but I can't get the handle off
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I changed the cable on my toro mower but i cant make it go unless i pull back on the handle .i cant find a picture to see what i am doing wrongcan you help. Thanks
Posted on May 06, 2009
Your self-propel is probably belt driven. Belts can make an awfully lot of noise when unhappy. Possible it has rolled over and is running on the wrong side of the belt or is worn and just needs replaced. Hope this helps.,
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
Problem is in the rear pinion gears on rear axle and the design of the axle itself. I have a 2005 model 20041 had the same problem. I found a Toro dealer that had the fix.The problem is creadted by the fact that there is too much "play" in the rear axle. You have to limit that play by installing shims, or washers First, but the 2 new rear pinion gears for the rear axle. While you're at it, you may as well buy 2 new rear wheels because the "grinding" has worn the sprockets on the reas r wheels.Next, get 2 "fender washers", 1/2" ID and about 1" OD. I found it easier to turn the mower over and set it on saw horses to work on it.( drain the gas and oil first). Remove both rear wheels, pinion gears and all the washers etc. (caution - keep all parts from one side together - do not pile all parts together - keep them seperated by wheel - the reason is I believe there is one more washer/shim on the right side than on the left). Now to put everything back together, find a spot on the axle where the washer will fit in between the standard stuff.Install new pinion gears and replace the rest of the washers/shims just as they came off. INstall new wheels and you'll be good as new!
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
Try taking the back wheels off and lubricating the joint cogs and wheels with ,say, 3 in 1 oil . The dealer recommended doing this once every couple of years as preventative maintenance when I bought mine , and it has solved sticking problems for me .
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
It's not that hard. I've never done it on my Toro GTS 5.0, but I have done it on a Briggs and it's pretty much the same. Start by removing the 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the engine shroud. DON'T remove the 4 top bolts on the recoil housing. You might have to remove the fuel tank first. Drain it, then loosen the 2 8mm screws and lift it straight up. No need to disconnect the fuel line, just set the tank aside. After removing the 10mm bolts, the shroud should lift right off. Flip it over and you will see the recoil pulley. Remove any leftover cord from the pulley. Now you need to wind the pulley against the spring in the direction it goes when you pull the cord. It might wind 2 or 3 revolutions but don't overdo it. Now you will need some sort of clamp to hold the pulley in place as you line up the slot in the pulley with the opening where the handle goes. Next, feed the new cord through the opening and into the pulley and tie a knot to keep it from slipping out. Carefully release the clamp and let the pulley slowly wind the new cord onto itself. Finally, attach the handle on the other end of the cord and test it. If you can pull the handle and the cord comes out and it retracts normally, re-install the shroud and tank.
Posted on Oct 03, 2010
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