Poulan will not fire off, no report when primed manualy.
Have set coil gap to 10 thousandths, new plug tested in another saw, get nice blue spark in plug. Put 2 dops of gas in cyl, doesnt even try Plug wire has been crimped & clamped down excessively, could this be the problem? Has anybody ever changed just the plug wire?
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Often the cause is a failed fuel pump diaphram. Rebuild the carb... kits about $20. The diaphram works from engine vacuum pulses. Also the little flap type check valves go bad... the ethanol in gas doesn't help this problem...
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Be sure the fuel and oil mix is thoroughly shaken just before filling the tank each time to prevent oil starvation. Set the plug gap to 0.020" and test the spark for being blue and snappy. If weak looking, remove the left side engine cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are just under the module poles, insert a thin business card into the gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the poles to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws, turn the flywheel somewhat to remove the card, then turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up further. Replace the cover and retest spark--if ok, try for start. Hope this helps!
Check the air cleaner for plugging. Remove the spark plug, open the throttle with the choke off, turn the machine upside down and pull it through smartly several times until the excess fuel is expelled. Dry the spark plug interior insulator and test for spark--it should be blue and snappy (plug gapped 0.020"). If weak looking, try a new plug first, and if still weak, remove the left engine case to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel magnets under the module poles, insert a thin business card into the gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws and turn the flywheel somewhat to release the card. Turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the module gap doesn't close up at any point. Reassemble and test again for spark. If now good, try for engine start. Hope this helps!
Test the plug either by using a spark tester tool or by having the plug removed from the cylinder, then plug it into the coil wire, then place it somewhere against the metal on the engine, It has to be metal to ground the plug to complete the circuit. Dim the light and pull the cord! You should see a nice little blue spark...yellow or orange is weak and the coil may have issues or the air gap needs to be adjusted. Don't let the plug just hang in mid-air while connected to the coil and pull the cord. That may damage the coil.
Easy way to test plug is to remove it from cylinder head, then ground its hex base to side of engine..reattatch plug wire and pull starter cord...Do this is dim light...need to see a nice blue spark. So, do that...check the plug gap and plug condition (even if new)...if it's NOT firing...try another plug...if same...you will need to pull the engine covers off and check the "air gap" of the flywheel magnets to the pickup legs on the ignition coil module. You can gap it the thickness of a regular business card (.010"-.014"). The gap has to be present for the spark plug to produce a spark.
Use a thin business card for a module gap gauge. Rotate the flywheel magnets under the ignition module, insert the card into the gap, loosen the module screws and allow it to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws again, and rotate the flywheel to remove the card. Make sure the plug has 0.020" gap. You should have plenty of fire. If not, the flywheel magnets may have gotten weak, or the ignition switch is partially grounded out. Hope this helps!
Look for a pinched/bare stop-switch wire (I assume that you don't have spark now). Also, check the ignition coil core gap to the flywheel magnets (I use card stock to set the gap). Make sure the plug wire was not damaged again.
Four things I can think of: 1) There is a short in your spark plug wire. When you bend it to connect the plug in the machine it allows the exposed cable to contact the engine block. Examine the wire all the way to the coil.
2) Flywheel key is sheared ( you obviously know how to take off the flywheel since you checked the seals).
3) Flywheel air gap is not set correctly. Loosen the coil. Put the cover of a notebook or the cardboard piece of a cigarette pack between the magnetic portion of the flywheel and the coil. Tighten the coil down. This will get you the proper gap.
4) Your cylinder/piston or rings are scrubbed out. Even though it passed a compression test, on rare occasions it will loose compression only when it fires. So do the following:
Remove your exhaust manifold. Look into the cylinder with a flash
light. You are looking for scratches. Anything larger then a light
fingernail is definite proof you need a new cylinder/piston assy.
If it passes that test do the following:
mixed fuel straight into your cylinder until 1/4 full. Slowly pull your
saw over while looking into the cylinder. If you see bubbles after the
ring/rings go by then you need a new cylinder/piston assy. On rare
occasions if no scratches are present on the cylinder wall or piston,
you may be able to change just the rings.
First if you can get a inline spark tester so you can see if your getting spark with the plug installed.