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I think this is an electrical problem. I have slow charged the battery and had it tested. Test shows good reading. I had a problem before which turned out to be a bad 15amp fuse which runs from the ca

This mower has a 12.5 horsepower Briggs & Stratton I/C engine. Model#289707 Type# 0121 01 Code# 9212154E

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  • 415 Answers

You don't really say what the problem is, but just checking a battery with a volt meter does not determine if the battery is good or not. Take the battery to a place where they can load check it. If it is more that 2-3 years old, or if the battery sat discharged for several months, then it is probably time to get a new one.

Posted on Jul 02, 2014

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Craftsman Lawn Tractor - Electrical

make sure you mower deck is not still engaged. that might make it not start with that safety switch.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

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SOURCE: My riding mower blows fuses once you turn the key.

Sounds like you are on the right path, maybe some wires on the ignition were replaced backward, and you are sending +12v directly to ground? Does it blow right away?

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

wadembly
  • 448 Answers

SOURCE: I have a B&S 16hp electric-start engine.

i would check the solenoid first if that doesn't work check starter also what you can do is turn the key on & run jumpers from car or another battery ground on engine block of the mower & take the positive & touch the bolt that the positive wire goes to on starter it will cause a spark but if starter turns over & starts then it the solenoid

Posted on Jul 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rally ride on lawn mower not starting. briggs and

i have a rally lawn tractor when i hook up the battery it wants to start key is off only thing i did was change the belt. was working fine before .

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

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SOURCE: Briggs & Stratton R mower/14.5 hp. Starter engages. Engine stops on compression. Has new starter & battery. Cabels are good. Sometimes it will start & run.

Incorrect valve tappet clearances, this will stop the auto deco valve in the engine working.

Posted on Apr 14, 2012

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2 Answers

My car needing a jump threw out the day


Ok I would have the battery tested. While testing battery make sure all connections are clean and tight on the battery terminals. If battery checks out to be good. Test the charging system, alternator. If alternator tests good make sure you belts are not slipping or worn and stretched out as this could cause a an inconsistent charge. While doing the battery test if posible do a draw test to see if anything is during current all the time as this could be draining or weakening the battery.

Apr 13, 2015 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Hard to turn over like weak battery?????


Clean battery terminals. Then buy a cheap tester that plugs into cig lighter about 5 dollars The battery should be about 12.6 volts just sitting. Start car and meter should read 13.8 or above if not replace alternator if it reads good and the battery is charged up turn off car turn on headlight for 2 seconds turn off and read meter it should read 12.6 if not replace battery or have it tested for free at autoparts store. If they load test battery and say it is good and the charging system shows good then your starter is drawing to much power remove starter have it tested for free at auto parts store. If they say you need a rebuilt have them test it before you take it home

Mar 03, 2013 | 2003 Chrysler 300M

1 Answer

By blackberry flip turned off in the middle of a call and I have not been able to to turn it on since. I changed the battery and that did not work. Any ideas?


it may be that battery is faulty, and is not charging.

A standard cellphone battery can support a charge from near empty to full about 300-500 times. after that, the charge is not 'filling' the battery, and it is drained quicker.

You can test the ability of the battery to hold a charge.


1. Plug the cell phone into its charger and plug the other end in to an electrical outlet. Allow the battery charge to full capacity.

2. Press and hold the power button on the cell phone to turn it off. Let the phone power down and remove the back cover to access the battery.

3. Remove the battery and observe the label for the voltage. Most cell phone batteries are 3.4 to 4.5 volts.

4. Turn on a multimeter. A multimeter tests current flow in voltage and amps and also resistance in a circuit. Place the black test probe on the negative battery contact and the red test probe on the positive battery contact. The contacts are on the edge or bottom of the battery and should be marked negative (-) and positive (+).

5. Place one test probe on the left terminal and one on the right, if the battery terminals are not marked. These are usually the correct terminals and the meter will show a positive reading. If the meter shows a negative reading, move the left or right probe to the middle terminal until one pair shows a positive reading.

6. Read the display on the multimeter. The voltage should be the same or a little higher than the battery label due to the fact that batteries hold an additional charge above the full charge mark when they have just been charged.


You can go to your local mobile store, and ask them to try another battery in your phone. if it works, great, you just need a new battery.
If not, well, the phone might have water damage, could have a circuit shorted out or something unusual. eitherway, if the phone doesnt turn on, you need to take it to the vendor, who has resources to test the equipment.

make a friend with someone who also has a Blackberry 8220, maybe you can try their battery for free, and if they arent looking, pull a switcheroo!

Mar 08, 2011 | RIM BlackBerry Pearl Flip 8220 Cellular...

1 Answer

Jeep was slow to crank, and acts as though it did not want to go when you push the gas pedal. Had to have it jumped off last sunday and had the battery tested, it tested good, but very weak. It did fine...


In order to properly test a battery it needs to be fully charged using an external battery charger, then load tested. A car alternator is not designed to do anything except maintain the batterys initial state of charge. A good battery will not drop below 9.5 volts when loaded to 300 amps, and should quickly return to at least 12volts when load is removed..
If the battery does not pass that test, replace it. Then, have a charging test done on the vehicle with the new battery installed. A quick test can be done by putting a volt meter on the battery and watching voltage with all the accessories turned on. Generally the volt reading should remain around 13volts and not slowly drop over time. A reading of 14volts or higher also indicates a problem of over-charging that can overheat and damage the battery.
What you said sounds a lot like your battery has sulphated (material from the plates falls down to the bottom of the battery and causes internal shorting allowing the battery to drain itself over time). A load test will show that. But, driving with a marginal battery can damage the charging system so a charging test should always be done after replacement.

Oct 31, 2010 | 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland

1 Answer

Hello i have a 1990 harley davidson softail custom,i've own it for 20 years,i don't think its charging,battery is fairly new when its running and i remove the ground cable it stops dies out i put a test...


Marshall:

First, your battery MUST be fully charged to perform these test. You'll need a good DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) but an analog meter will work. Connect the meter across the battery with the read lead to the positive post and the black meter lead to the negative post. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should show a slow build up of voltage over about a thirty second period of time. It should read 14.5-15.0 volts.

If not, you'll need to test the alternator. Unplug the regulator at the front of the engine. Look inside the connector in the engine case and you'll see two metal connectors. Put one meter lead into each contact. It makes no difference which lead goes to what connector because we're checking AC voltage. Now, set your meter function switch to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to high idle. You should read at least 30 volts.

If you read 30 volts or more at the alternator but less than 14 volts at the battery, replace the regulator. Naturally, less than 30 volts at the alternator, replace the stator.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 14, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage...

2 Answers

Have a 89 suberban and the alternator and battery test at autozone is showing good but still not working. Cleaned termenals grounding is good. How do I check if the small 1 wire on the altanator is working...


With key on,it should read 12 volts,now check the large wire on the back of the alternator with key off,it should read 12 volts,if it does not,then ,it is not getting voltage from the battery,just run a wire,the same size,or larger on the back,along with the other wire,all the way to the battery positive side.This will solve the problem.If the small wire is not getting voltage from the ignition switch,then there is a fuse blown,or the ignition switch is bad.You can run a wire from the fuse box,to the alternator,just make sure it is on a fuse that just has power with key on,not off.If this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

Jul 31, 2010 | GMC C1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I think my starter motor has gone? my car wont start unless i pus it and kick start it in gear. Is it the starter motor gone or battery playing up??


hi...

both may be the reason for not starting.

11.please check the terminals from the battery,wires and all in good order.then check the volt comin to the starter motor if the volts are correct then the problem is with the started motor. please service or replace with the new motor.

2.if no supply is comin to the motor terminla then ther is a problem with the wires.the wire is damaged so no power goes to the motor.

3.if the voltmeter/multimeter reads less reading then the problem is with the battery.the charge is not sufficient enough to start the motor. please recharge or replace the battery if required.

if my information was usefull please vote

Jun 26, 2010 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Electrical system is having problems and it doesn't want to start


Take it to Les Shcwab tire store to have the battery load tested, it can show good but fail on load test. Your warning light just shows the batt is receiving a charge, not whats happening under load. P.S. They don't charge to test.

Jun 07, 2010 | 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

1 Answer

Shows full charge,goes ok for a little while but then stops turn off then on goes very slow for seconds then stops again.


Hi Susan, I repair power wheel chairs, Its possible that your chair has a bad battery on it , all p/chairs have 2 batteries.And even though you show a full charge one battery may have a bad cell in it you need to get both batteries load tested . I think you my find one of them bad. take them out of chair and have them tested.You can get replacement batteries , and have yours tested at a store that sells batteries only, look in yellow pages for a battery store . Good luck, Erik

Mar 01, 2010 | Electric Mobility Shoprider Electric Power...

1 Answer

2005 Hartford HD-125S electrics not working


Hi, Ratbag1488 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hartford HD 125S
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Reading Hartford Hd 125 Super 2009 Manuals
CHINESE SC HARTFORD HD 125 LEGION 2005 2009 Spares Parts Accessories
Hartford HD 125S 2007

Jul 11, 2017 | 2005 Hartford HD-125S

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