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Condensation on cabinet of True Freezer model number T-35

Temp on inside is 5 degrees

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Candyhelp
  • 136 Answers

SOURCE: true t-35 temp control

in the top right hand corner there should be a thermostate gauge

Posted on Mar 18, 2008

  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: My True beer fridge is freezing inside.

call repairman sounds like low on freon or thermostat problem either way better to have pro do it hope this helps

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: true 2 door reach in freezer

If its getting warmer or more humid where you are this is probably a sign of needing to clean your outer coils. Remove the panel covering the compressor and check the condition of the coils. Clean with a nylon brush or wire brush. Or blow out with compressed air.

If the outer coils look ok see if they feel warm up and down the sides. If they dont you may have a defrost problem. If they are warm recheck them in 30 minutes if still warm or warmer and no one has opened the door check the lite inside, and the fan inside (it will only run with door closed). Hit the switch and see if lite goes out and make sure the switch is being activated whith the door closed.
It could be low on refrigerant or an inefficent compressor but not laikey as much as these other items are.

The last thing is the thermometer could be reading wrong or out of calibration. Is it Electronic? Yes - Then its most likely one of the other problem before. If its mechanical (bi-metal) get another thermometer you trust or a new one and check it before you trust it. 2 of them telling you its 5'f then Id believe it other wise one or both of them are wrong.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2 door reach in true freezer which is now

If its getting warmer or more humid where you are this is probably a sign of needing to clean your outer coils. Remove the panel covering the compressor and check the condition of the coils. Clean with a nylon brush or wire brush. Or blow out with compressed air.

If the outer coils look OK see if they feel warm up and down the sides. If they don't you may have a defrost problem. If they are warm recheck them in 30 minutes if still warm or warmer and no one has opened the door check the lite inside, and the fan inside (it will only run with door closed). Hit the switch and see if lite goes out and make sure the switch is being activated with the door closed. And check the door seals any vinyl cracked on them they need replacing but can be warped sometimes letting in warm air (usually a sign of frost inside the door or water leaking out but not always).
It could be low on refrigerant or an inefficient compressor but not likely as much as these other items are.

The last thing is the thermometer could be reading wrong or out of calibration. Is it Electronic? Yes - Then its most likely one of the other problem before. If its mechanical (bi-metal) get another thermometer you trust or a new one and check it before you trust it. 2 of them telling you its 5'f then Id believe it other wise one or both of them are wrong.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

jeffbvegas1
  • 520 Answers

SOURCE: True Freezer

Hopefully you were good on cap tube length is this is an important aspect of this system.The length must be matched

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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1 Answer

Condensation on cabinet of True Freezer model number T-35


Where is the condensation forming? Usually a door seal or door closure problem, or site conditions (high ambient). Make sure the condenser grille is clear and clean, as the thermostat can easily be fooled into running long periods

Apr 14, 2014 | True T-35

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The evaporator coil inside the unit ices up and causes the condensation drain to be blocked. Condensation then backs up and drips inside the unit and on my product. I have check the drain line and it is...


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE
TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

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What is the normal operational pressure in lo/hi side at the compressor of commercial freezer like dispaly case, reach in cabinet or other any low temp refrigeration uses 502 or408A/404a. is there any rule...


why yes there is. Generally speaking, the head pressure should be around the "ambient +30" rule.
That is, measure the entering air temp to the condenser, say 75 degrees. Now add 30 to that and get 105 degrees. Look at a P/T chart and see what the pressure is for that temp which is about 253 for R-404-A.
The evap on a freezer leads the load so, as a general rule, the evap temp is going to be around minus 10 degrees to get a 0 degree box. Coolers are different. So, the pressure for a minus 10 evap is around 25 or so. But the unit has to be close to operating temp. If the box is warm, naturally the pressure is higher. And what influences the pressure is whether or not it's a TXV or a cap tube system.
If a TXV and no receiver, charge by subcooling. If a receiver, fill by sight glass. If Cap tube, charge by superheat.
Hope that answers your question.

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Last two weeks refrigerator temp goes anywhere from 30-35 degrees and freezer temp -5 to -1 degrees.several times a day we attempt to set temp to reccommended temp, but no success.we do not have mannual,...


fridge temp should be 30 to 35 degrees/freezer -1 to -5 f or between 2 to 5 C for fridge and -18 to -22 C for freezer several times a day is too often...... try once every 2 days without opening door in between checks....

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Refrigerator temperature climbs and takes too long to recover.


Look at following areas for the model number
  • Beneath Or Inside Food Compartment On Cabinet Frame
  • On Plate Lower Front Or Rear Of Cabinet
  • Beside Compressor Door On Right End
  • Near Rear Of Cabinet
  • Inside Liner At Top
  • Send this information so I can help you better, Thanks, Sea Breeze

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16 month old GE Profile refrigerator with bottom freezer can no longer maintain freezer temp. With control set at zero degrees, freezer temp varies from twenty down to six degrees. Both sides of cabinet...


Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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Assuming the temp inside the freezer is at around 0 or -2 degrees, it should dump ice every ~50 minutes or so. Again, depending on temp's, an Ice Bin should fill within 24 to 48 hours. If your freezer temp is running at around 10 degrees, everything will obviously still be frozen (below 32), but the ice maker will take longer to freeze the water than it would if it were at 0 degrees. Open both doors and place the palm of your hand on the partition between the freezer and Fresh Food compartments... (where the door gaskets seat when they're closed). The temp of the partition should be about 5 or 10 degrees warmer than body temp., If it's hotter than that, you found the problem. Either the condenser coils are dirty and need a good cleaning OR your condenser fan motor (the fan in back, near the floor in the compressor area) is failed or about to fail.

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