Question about Dryers
Need to unstack dryer from washer. There are no visible screws. How do I remove the dryer?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: How to unstack a dryer
I have a Kenmore 417.69042990 stackable dryer and had a similar problem. To unstack it, in the front of the dryer there are two screws that are covered by round caps. They are easy to miss unless you look for them. Remove the caps, and the screws underneath it. Now, voila, you can lift the front of the dryer and pull as to unlock it from the two brackets in the rear of the dryer. Hope this helps... I took me and my husband over an hour to figure this out...
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
SOURCE: The dryer is a SAMSUNG
if it was hooked up by a spoty nosed stacking kid?? i would first check he pluged it in right! some kids were born with out a brain you know? then if its pluged in and switched on but still wont work its time to call the firm to get them to send out the repair man to fix it,, or they will say you broke it?
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
SOURCE: I have a barely 1
I have the same problem. When the timer approaches 0:00, it adds one hour. Try turning off the power (breaker) for a while and turning it back on. It works for me.
Posted on Mar 28, 2011
Hi k jeffrey510...
Before you jump right to the heating element you may want to check a few of the things below.
The way to check the heating element is included in the instructions below:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors.
>>>>>Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.<<<<<
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
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Posted on Jun 04, 2011
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