Question about Chrysler town & country cover. wheel. . brake lines and hoses; caps

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I need awater connection only the brass part for a wheeled hose cart model # m14030-013755

The brass fitting that screws to the hose then to the wheel its a swivel part

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This answer is too late to be useful to the poster but it could help someone.
The model number means nothing to me but it is worth knowing few such connectors are specially made for such applications but tend to be bought in from a catalogue. Such catalogues are huge and many. Even if a matching replacement can't be found something can usually be found with suitable help that will perform the same function.

It is worth making friends with the local plumber's merchant where often will be found a Harry or an Eric who has been there since leaving school and will see at a glance what is needed.

An alternative would be a company that specialises in making and repairing hydraulic hoses. Such establishments tend to have a vast capability at problem solving. There tends to be at least one such company in every medium-sized town.

Posted on Jan 13, 2015

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How do I remove and change ignition switch in a mazda bravo 2001 ute?


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How remove handle for water ridge farcet nsf 61/9


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1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    1st time ever using a compressor. Need to disconnect the yellow hose from machine to move. I've pushed down on the bronze ring with texture, and then it's loose but not out. Don't want to...


    It sounds like you are trying to disconnect a quick-connect fitting. Don't loosen the hex. No tools required. Just pull back a bit harder on the outer brass ring then pull out the male end of the fitting. You might have to push it, then pull it. A word of caution- if the male end is on a hose that has air pressure in it, it's going to very rapidly escape from the hose. If you aren't prepared for that it will startle you and you could hurt yourself. Just hold on to it securely and don't put your face too close. Good luck, Al K

    Jun 21, 2011 | Makita Mac5200 138a 3 Hp 5 Gal Wheeled Air...

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    Looking for a picture of back brake system for a 1999 ford f-150


    Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.

    Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.

    The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.

    The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.

    The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)

    You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.

    You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
    Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.

    Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.

    I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.

    May 29, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    1994 corolla...brake pedal goes to the floor after changing lines,brake booster and the master...is there bleeder valves im missing?


    Assumeing you have no big leaks in the new brake lines witch you would see because there would brake fluid all over the ground I would say you didn;t bench bleed the new master cylinder There is air in this part when you buy it and you need to get it out before it will work Heres how you do it first you need a kit it consests of plugs that you screw into the holes that the brake lines go into but they have fittings for hoses to plug on to them you put the master cylinder into a vice screw the plugs into the holes put the hoses on the fittings and put the other end of the little hoses into the cylinder resivior fill the resiviors with brake fluid then take some kind of a tool i like to use a 6 inch 3/8 ths socket extentoin because not sharp but you could use a screw driver And push the piotion in from the back of the unit repeataly until you see now more air bubbles coming out of the two little hoses that are in the resiviors like ten or so pushes Then reinstall hook up the lines and bleed at wheel cylinders with wheel cylinder bleeding always start at the fertist wheel and work your way back to the closetes wheel Its not as hard as it may sound good luck

    Nov 11, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

    1 Answer

    Busted brake line


    Usually goes to a junction block on the axle. Measure it when you get it out. You don't have to duplicate it exactly but make sure that it dosen't rub on anything when axle moves. If you can't get exact length, you can use brass couplers. If line fitting on either wheel cylinder or junction is rusted in, cut the line flush with the fitting and use a six point socket on it. Make sure you bleed system when finished. (not just one wheel)

    Nov 29, 2008 | 1993 Chevrolet Cavalier

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