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Homelite xl75 chainsaw. Does this model have decompression

Starter cord very difficult to pull. Is there a decompression control? Saw runs fine once started but almost seems as if piston bumps into something inside when I pull the cord.

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  • Contributor
  • 20 Answers

Might have a broken ring on piston

Posted on Apr 16, 2014

  • HFCoombs Apr 20, 2014

    Possibly a loose coil beside the starting cord, it may be whats feeling like the bump if its not in line properly. It may just need to remove the cord housing to check this. Homelite saws are infamous for loose screws.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 255 Answers

SOURCE: pull cord difficult to pull..removed from saw it

Make sure someone hasn't run this saw without the oil in the fuel mixture. It is possible it is dry and some galling is happening. Or - if this saw is equipped with a compression bleeder (for easier starting), this could be not functioning and you're pulling through the normal compression (which can be a bit feisty!). Check for misalignment of some type having to do with the pull starter - check that the cord spool isn't rubbing on the housing when you pull. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

  • 2692 Answers

SOURCE: Ryobi 40cc CHAINSAW .... pulled out cord too far

It is usually just jammed, when you go out too far. Ifyou take the recoil starter off or loose , sometimes it goes back in on it own. If not ,carefully disassemble it and see if the recoil spring is broken. 

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: Homelite 16'' chain saw runs rough and backfires

One of two things is wrong. This saw is so old I doubt it has electronic ignition. Pull the flywheel off and clean the points with carb cleaner and sand the contacts very, very lightly with super fine sandpaper or a little file. Second option, the coil is bad, take it to the shop and they should be able to test it for you.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: homelite super xl ao runs for a short time, then

Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Can't pull the starter cord,

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Remove the muffler and clean out the exhaust port and screen. You will have to disassemble the muffler and clean off or replace the screen item 8 of this link:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=echo&mn=CS-330T++S%2FN%3A+C08611001001+-+C08611999999&dn=7946

Before taking the muffler apart... unhook the spark plug and just pull it though with the muffler removed. If it pulls normally you know you have found the problem.

If it still pulls hard...check the exhaust port of the cylinder head for 2 tiny holes (not screw holes) Some have them some don't depending upon the year of the saw. If you do find 2 small holes that appear clogged with carbon... do your best to clean them out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on May 15, 2011

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1 Answer

U tube chainsaw pull cord wont pull start


Some saws with autotmatic oiling will leak bar oil into the cylinder and cause this. Pull out the spark plug and hold the saw so the oil runs out of the spark plug hole. Pull the starter cord till no more oil sprays out of the hole.Clean the oil off the plug and start your saw. It will smoke more than normal till the extra oil is burned out.

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Saw starter pulling too hard to start.


Check piston rings. Sounds like you have a seized engine.

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Very hard to pull when starting . i think the compression release isn't doing its thing. how to adjust. homelite 54


If defective it must be replaced.
Starter Handle difficult to pull:
1. Remove the starter cover.
· Inspect the flywheel and crankshaft under the starter cover. Are the woodruff key slots on the crack shaft and flywheel aligned and the key intact? If not; Please consider taking the saw to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair or ordering any parts; if yes continue.
· Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if not repair the starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; cracked fuel delivery lines; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the plug. Remove the muffler (clean it and the spark arrestor before reinstalling), hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Please Note: Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

Apr 24, 2010 | Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In....

2 Answers

Why is my pull cord hard to pull? Seems like it is catching on something.


It should be hard to pull during part of the revolution... this is the compression stroke and is normal.

Better chainsaws have a compression release that allows the engine to spin faster while cranking and then closes when it fires. These are easier to start but cost more.

Mar 09, 2010 | Homelite Garden

1 Answer

I AM NOT ABLE TO PULL CRANKING CORD ALLTHE WAY. IF I REMOVE SPARK PLUG THEN IT IS EASY TO PULL CORD ALLTHEWAY UP. WHY AND WHAT TO DO ?


Starter Handle difficult to pull:.
1. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 2.
·
Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 2, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
2. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
3. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou

Feb 20, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Husky 38 chainsaw acts like it won`t turn over easy and can`t get it to start. turns over freely without the spark plug in.i just bought the saw and don`t know it`s history. it looks like it is new. used...


Difficult to pull starter cord:
1. starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If Remove the yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered. usually $10 - 20 at any saw outlet.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH

Lou

Feb 01, 2010 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

Homelite super xl ao runs for a short time, then


Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.

Jan 15, 2010 | Homelite Garden

1 Answer

Decompression valve for Homeliye XL-700 chain saw.


With the age of the chainsaw and the scarity of available parts, it would be major undertaking to even attempt to install a decomp valve into this chainsaw and the result could end up ruining the saw for good.

If I might make a suggestion that you either sell this, as there are many collectors of classic chainsaws such as the XL-700 and you might do better with a newer saw that is easier to start and use.

Either that, or just accept that starting these older saws are more difficult.

As to the C.U. rating for this saw, it is a 4.7 Cu. Inch displacement.

Here's an online manual wih a parts breakdown and exploded line drawings for the XL-700, in case you want to tinker with the saw.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/7283163/Homelite-Xl-700-Xl-800-Ipl

Hope you found this Very Helpful - Best regards!

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As long as the line fits tight so its not sucking air you should be ok.. try changing out the plug if its old. Clean out the air filter too.. But the line should be ok as long as its tight..

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1 Answer

Homelite 16'' chain saw runs rough and backfires


One of two things is wrong. This saw is so old I doubt it has electronic ignition. Pull the flywheel off and clean the points with carb cleaner and sand the contacts very, very lightly with super fine sandpaper or a little file. Second option, the coil is bad, take it to the shop and they should be able to test it for you.

Mar 15, 2009 | Garden

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