Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
water leak from cold hose nothing to do with other problem. tighten hose connection and fit a new hose washer overfilling probably because air chamber blocked. remove lid. you will see a pressurestat somewhere at the top - usually round with anything from 3 to 7 wires and a small tube underneath. follow hose down and it connects to the air chamber. make sure this is free of gung and check hose for splits and has no blockage. to check the pressure stat itself, attach your own hose to the stat and while machine in fill mode, blow down this hose and you should hear a click and water intake will stop
Posted on May 04, 2007
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
First thing is to remove the 2 screws from the console, they may be hidden in the front or bacl of console. After removing screws, lightly push the base of the console towards the front of the washer and pick up. This will expose your lid switch connection. Using a jumper wire, jump out the black and white wires then try advancing your washer into spin/drain. The culprit will usually be the lid switch assy.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
I have seen this problem numerous times on service calls. It sounds like you have a siphoning problem. The key symptom is the wash tub that continously attempts to fill, but cannot achieve the proper water level. This is often caused by not having an air gap on your drain line, improper placement of the drain hose, or a standpipe that is too small in diameter. The following link explains:
If you place the drain hose in the standpipe too far, or seal the top of the standpipe, this can cause a vacuum which will cause the symptoms you describe. A tell-tale sign will be a sucking noise as you pull the drain hose from the standpipe. Read through the link I provided. If this does not correct your problem please post back and let me know before you rate this solution. This way I can try to assist you further. I hope this corrects your problem.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
If your washing machine will not fill, only hot or cold will fill or is slow to fill then read these tips. I have covered many of the things that can happen in these tips...
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