Question about Roper Washing Machines
Lound noise durning spin cycle
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Front loaders are great for savings on water and electricity. Most of these machines only use about 5 to 7 gallons (US) of water and spin with a velocity anywhere between 1300 to 1800 rpms. This also saves on dry times because your clothes are virtually spun dry. Why am I telling you all this? People buy them with good intentions, but the common complaint I hear is that they are noisy. It is this spin velocity that contributes to that noise. You need to make sure that the foundation under the washer is stable. If your washer is located in a mobile home, upstairs laundry room, home with a crawl space, etc., sometimes these floors have a tendency to flex as the washer spins. If the floor flexes (even a little) the washer will vibrate and make noise. An easy fix to help redistribute to weight of the washer is to place a sheet of thick (at least 3/4" in the US) plywood under the washer to help reinforce the floor. This must be screwed down or affixed in such a way that it does not move. This will take care of any vibrating issues. Now, if your problem is strictly with noise from the machine, some of that is normal I'm afraid to say. However, if it sounds REALLY loud (like a rumble) this is a symptom of a rear bearing that is going bad. If that is the case, the entire back shell of the wash tub has to be replaced in order to replace the bearing as they are molded into the plastic. This can be an expensive repair job if you decide to pursue this option. Let me know if any of this helps. Kinda hard for me to diagnose without being there to hear it.
Posted on Jun 24, 2007
First plug off the wall. Open the machine from behind to examine if any shock-absorbers(known as dampers) or springs have come off or broken. Your dealer could help with spares. But you could do the job yourself.
RepairClinic.com (which is good)
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.
If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)
Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
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