Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

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Works fine on propane but not on AC/DC, fuses check ok

Was working initially but now works only on propane, I checked the fuses (okay) Power supply to unit shows 12.7vdc and 119.7 vac

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Will not cool on gas or electric

my RM2652 refrigerator will not get cold on gas or elec. freezer cold (not much) but main box nothing. also fairly warm/hot to the touch around the edge of the unit. Any ideas??

Thank you

Robert

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: My fredge rm 2652 not working

You need to check your fuses on the fuse panel inside your coach. The frig will not operate on gas or electric without 12 volt power to the frig circuit board.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: RM2652 WORKS ON GAS NOT ON AC ALL FUSES OK POWER

www;
Unplug the fridge. Remove the cover from the circuit board, unplug the 2 wires going to the heat element and do an Ohms reading should be 35-45 Ohms. If the Ohms is good then you need a circuit board as long as you have checked the 110 volt fuse on the circuit board.
Thanks for using Fixya
Jerry

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rv refrigerator will not run on electric even

motorhome fridge will not switch from propane to electric even when on auto

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Refridgerator won't cool on propane.

I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

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I am assuming that you are very familiar with electronic circuitry and components, use of a DVM and a soldering iron. In the absence of a schematic diagram, and since you have perform initial voltage checks, perhaps you can wing it. Your "brick" will have to follow the basic design of an SMPS (switch mode power supply). Simply stated,an SMPS is an AC to DC to high freq AC then to lo V DC converter. Per your post, you have checked that there is DC (B+) from the AC mains, then what is needed is to check if there is oscillation to produce the high freq AC. Often design calls for an optical coupler, a small rectangular looking component with four pins, two at each end. This is nothing more than a LED and a Light Dependent transistor. Its function is to switch/trigger on the oscillation (and therefore start the SMPS producing the lo B+s).

Again, since there is no readily available schematic diagram, might I suggest that you post back the part numbers of the ICs and transistors. What we can do is pull out their spec/data sheets and/or application diagrams. Such would give us a general idea of the working voltages at what pins and what each component is supposed to do. Example, let us say your power supply uses a 817A/0635 opti coupler and/or an SG5841DZ controller IC, then we can search for them as initially described.

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The older units has a 3 VDC glow coil the newer units have a 12VDC igniter.

Fromwhat your described above the next paragragh is your ignition system.

The igniter control voltages in the newer SPARK type igniters are (+) = 12VDC, (L)= high voltage lead (Spark plug voltage! I.e ruin your meter type voltage), (-)= Ground L is the lead that passes the HV spark from the control unit to the ignitor plate. The L lead should pass one heck of a hit if is workng correctly.
If not look at the HV lead to see if it is grounding out somewhere.

If the gas safety valve is not sensing gas pressure... you will not have 12VDC to the + terminal of the ignition moudule.

With the gas on and you have 12VDC at the ignition module + terminal then most likely the ignition module is bad.


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Won't work on ac


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Since the set works fine on +12VDC, the majority of the TV set is ok. You have a problem in the AC power supply. It could be a blown fuse, bad rectifier / regulator, bad step-down transformer.

The TV typically runs from +12VDC. The AC supply steps-down the 120VAC and rectifies it into +12VDC to power the TV. At some point in the TV, there is junction point where the +12VDC from the sets internal AC supply meets the external +12VDC power source. Usually they are electrically isolated from each other with a switch or with diodes.

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When you run the radio off of batteries, it powers the radio directly. In some radios, when you plug the AC cord into the radio, it activates a switch that disconnects the battery voltage to the radio so that the batteries wont be damaged from the voltage created by the internal supply.

The radio can be powered by either the batteries or the internal supply. You don't want either supply affecting the other, so that is why a switch is sometimes used.

Since the radio works fine off of batteries, that would indicate that there is a problem with the internal power supply. This could be a blown fuse, bad transformer or bad rectifier diode.

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