The door handle has a spring loaded movement to break the seal around the door. The top part of the handle moves back and pulls the seal away to open the door. Inside the handle there is a small plastic fixing attached to a spring and the plastic has snapped. It is a small component and I do not really need a full handle but that is all I can find online and it is not clear if the new handle comes with the spring loaded part either. The manual has no parts listed so any help appreciated.
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There is usually a plastic part covering the top hinge. It will pull or snap off, rarely there might be a small screw.
Remove that plastic covering, and then unbolt the part of the hinge assembly attached to the body of the freezer.. DO THIS WHILE THE DOOR IS CLOSED! That is so the magnetic seal around the door will tend to hold it in place. Lean against it as you remove the hinge part so the door does not fall away and land on you, or even worse: break the door!
Slowly lift the door out of the bottom hinge, and carefully set it somewhere safe.
Be VERY CAREFUL when you set the door down. If you set it upright, against a wall or something, be aware that there is a pin sticking out the bottom of that door hinge, and it will likely simply ruin any flooring you set it on - and I speak that as a "voice of experience"!
Your freezer seals on door are bad causing it to ice up and the light is telling you to defrost,these models have a design flaw that causes this,seals around door have to be replaced to fix.Call your local appliance company and see if they can order you some new seals.
I would suspect the door seal is not making contact or has some defect in it. And that defect is probably in the top right corner of the door. If you have a thermomiter, wait until the compressor kicks in and then slowly run it around the door seal. There should be some area that is colder than the rest. If I am right, then you will need to replace the seal.
Bought the same freezer from Home Depot, door would not open did find with a bit of detective work that if you place your fingers between the door gasket and the shell of the freezer you can break the glue type seal then door works fine. You must go across top and down both sides.
Since your symtom is general, I'll answer as such.
An air leak due to doors not sealing can cause general icing. A defrost cycle that is too long can cause icing in areas other than the evap. A defrost cycle that is too short can cause evap icing. Intermittent problem with the evap fan. Overloading the unit with too much product can restrict air flow and cause icing. Door not closing due to spring loaded door closing hinge not working correctly.
I'd start with some of these suggestions to see if we can get you in a direction.
Your freezer should be able to handle a minus 5 to 10 degrees, generally speaking.
The most important thing is to make sure the new seal is warmed up to room temperature so it is soft and workable. Since the seal on mine is attached to the top door there is nothing to gain by leaving the door attached. Working upside down would leave the door open longer than just taking it off.
If you still have food in the freezer just put blankets over the top until the door is back on. If you have screws holding the seal it will go much easier. Mine has plastic pins that break easily pulling them out.
Get the edges as straight as possible to avoid leaks.
I have a EVL201NXRQ05 upright whirlpool. It was purchased in Nov 2008 in the Summer of 2009 the gasket was leaking at the top of the door. The gasket on this door snaps into place (no hardware needed). The problem is the door was bowed in the middle pulling the gasket down and away from the metal frame of the freezer - to the point the magnets in the gasket would not touch in the middle of the opening. I requested a new door while under warrantry. The door did not appear to be repairable it is a glued/foamed-inplace assembly. The new door looked straight when I installed it last summer and now it is bowed but not yet leaking. Whirlpool has a design / manufacture problem with this door design. I have received an extended warranty option from Whirlpool this past week 4 months after the factory warranty has expired. I suspect they know they have any issue, but not much is written about it. I may end up buying the extended warranty, but first I'm going to where I bought it to complain.
This means the seal at the top is not tight and air is leaking in.
There are 3 possible fixes: 1. Loosen and Rehang the door so that a piece of cash-register receipt paper cannot easily be pulled thru the seal when the door is closed (all the way around) get someone to help. Dont take the door hinge screws out, just loosen them, push the door in to compress seal and tighten them again
2. Replace the seal ($12-30.00) - Take make, model and serial number of the appliance with you to eliminate a return trip.
3/ Treat with Armor All to make gasket seal soft again (2-3x) and give it a wipe all the way around with Vaseline.
most of these have a hardened plastic female channel thats tough to see . it is a part of the door and consealed under the old gasket. it has a hollow groove . usually the new gasket has a flat side with a dart or double dart piece sticking out . this dart or arrow side runs the entire side of the gasket and smushes into the door groove channel.. usually you start on a corner firmly pulling out the old dart and gasket from the channel groove. clean the old channel with mild detergent and a little brush. wipe down. lightly oil door groove channel with a little veg oil on a rag and get ready to mash the new dart onto the channel all the way around. it takes great finger strength and mashing one thumb on top of the other to get enough pressure but it can be easy on some. good luck .be sure to clean door sill mating surface and wipe with oily Veg oil rag so new gasket stays clean and doesnt stick. it may take a few days to break in and level out. be sure your snug all around when done. lay out new gasket nice and flat in warm room before you start.