Turned my 757c on and it did not power up. I have removed it from the boat with the wires and went directly off the battery and still did not get power. I had power in the wires but did not get the 757 to power up.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Red wire w/purple tracer is 12 volt (+) supply to ignition switch. Purple wire is switched 12 volts that supplies 12 volts (+) to the circuits that are turned on by the ignition switch. If they are getting hot something in one of those circuits is drawing excessive power. This should cause the engine fuse to open the circuit to protect any damage. These early direct injected engines are very sensitive to voltage deficiencies. I would begin with the battery: make sure it has sufficient cranking amps, more is better. 800 - 1000 Cold Cranking Amps is a little more than minimum spec but that is what I would recommend. Make sure the battery connections are clean and secure, NO WING NUTS! Battery connections should be secured with an external tooth lock washer at the bottom of the stud followed by the engine cable so the washer bites into the lead and the cable lug. The cables should be marine quality tinned copper with a secure connection to a tinned copper lug. The cable must be sufficient size for the distance run. These engines and the electronics they are equipped with require good clean 12 volts. They can sound like they are cranking fast enough, like the battery is strong enough and not have enough to power the ECU/EMM and injectors. The major benefit of the newer E-Tecs over these early Direct Injected and Ficht outboards is the stator output and its ability to power the electronics without the dependency on the battery. The battery cranks the engine and the more advanced stator and flywheel magnets supply the voltage for the electronics.
Hope this helps. Make sure the correct fuse is installed in this engine. There are multiple fuses in the power distribution panel on the starboard side of the engine. They are all 10 amp ATM fuses.
Operate Trim Switch Do You Hear Clicking Sound In Engine Yes ,No
If Yes Check Wiring To Power Trim Motor are All Cables Tight If No Then The Trim Relay And Or Trim Switch Is Probably At Fault
,Remove Three Large Color Wires Going To Power Trim Motor Black, Blue And GreenConnect Black Direct To Negative Battery And Blue To Positive Battery Motor Should Trim Up ,Remove Blue Then Try Green To Positive Battery, Motor Should Trim Down ,If Nothing Then Trim Motor Is At Fault If Works Then Trim Relay/s Are At Fault
they do use some of the battery if it is wired into somthing that feeds directly off the battery i would recomend getting a battery disconnect switch this way when you turn off the switch the whole electrical system will be disabled. go to www.westmarine.com they have them listed on their website even though they might not be local you can get a idea of what you are going to be looking for ok?
best regards mike
If a boat is anything like a car, the amp's negative post should not be connected to the battery, but to the ground of the boat. In a car, the entire chassis is grounded to the negative terminal, so when you run a line from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive post on the amp, and a line from the negative post on the amp to the chassis it is a complete circuit. I highly recommend placing a fuse on the positive line from the battery to the amp. Wiring this way prevents the amp from blowing up your battery, as well as prevents the battery from blowing your amp. Hope it works.
Yes, the yellow wire is the switched hot lead - it is typically connected in one way or another to the ignition switch. There is also a smaller gauge red wire that is connected directly to the battery (through a fuse of course). Both of these wires have to have power for the radio to work. Also the black wire has to be connected to a good ground. If all three of these wires are confirmed to be in good order (power where there should be power, ground where there should be ground and no shorts) the radio should at least power up when they are all hooked up and the ignition is on.
That is most likely because the radio is drawing more power than the wire can provide. First make sure you have good connections, especially a good clean ground. Next make sure the power wire from the boat is at least the same size or thickness as the power wire on the radio. If that doesnt work, you may want to wire the radio directly to the battery, using an aftermarket inline fuse and wire available at any car audio store.
Sounds like the starter. Check if you have power at the solenoid from the battery with just the power on (key turned on, power switch on.) thats good-- you have power-- if not you have a wiring problem from your battery or main switch.