Question about JBL ES250P Subwoofer Speaker
I got this subwoofer around 3 years ago I think and absolutely loved the large, wide sound that they create. They could be enjoyed at low volumes for increased clarity and really be cranked up for parties. This is where my sub also started to take a beating, at parties. From angry parents unplugging the entire system live, to using it at 75% volume for hours on end. I usually never cranked the knob to full volume as I know that this leaves little room for the sub to breathe and its incredibly difficult to tell the slight difference in sound increase from 75% to 100% on this system anyways. I liked this speaker so much that I bought a second, but shortly after getting the second, the first one started to show signs of wear. It would crackle and make this popping like noise at any volume really, but got worse as the volume increased and as the crossover was set higher. 150Hz cut sounded way worse then the lowest 50Hz cut-off. However, it still sounded just as loud as it did after it finally broke in. It was just the added popping and crackling noise that could be heard clearly at extreme bass moments in songs when there wasn't much highs or mids playing at the time. I tried to combat this crackling and popping to the best of my abilities by tuning the crossover so the sub only played 25Hz to 50Hz and only put it at 50% power max. This helped for sometime as with my entire system playing you almost had to "hear for" the crackling if you didn't know it was already there. So of course, to replace my busted sub when it was still working, I got another JBL ES250p because for the price I'm not sure what compares and I've checked out tons of subs $300 or less. So I took a risk and got a third sub, I read that mixing and matching subs isn't ideal either. And wow... Once all three subs were hooked up and placed evenly across my back wall I could barely hear the crackle-pop and I could actually feel the bass in my chest all the way across my entire basement, wherever I stood, walls and corners being ridiculous bass-traps. Which I love as it gets people out of the corners and off the walls into the party because the bass is immensely overpowering leaning against the wall or standing in the opposite corner. With a 22 foot by 30 foot basement, just measured, the subs for the first time made me feel the music while being out "in the crowd" so to speak. It was a beautiful experience but short lived as I noticed one day the busted crackly speaker wasn't working. I think I switched the phase of the speaker when it was playing, but I wouldn't think that this could break it. It was a bad move on my part because it broke that day, but I think the problem may be a worn, faltering amp that just took a hell of a beating as understood by me from the very first crackles. I shouldn't have pushed it once the first problem arose but now there's another. The speaker isn't necessarily broken because it turns on, LED turns green, I hear the internal "Click" a few seconds after powering up before the speaker is actually active. All this happens but the speaker just doesn't play anything anymore. No white-noise, no fuzz, no music, or anything. I did open up the back to take a peek and saw no burn marks, anything broken, fallen, out of place, at least to my knowledge. None of circuits really, but there wasn't any glaring issue. However there are some more advanced tests that I can do owning three of these monsters, very heavy to. The things I haven't tried are - Switching out a working amp for the "broken one" - Same switch but with the woofer cone itself I don't if this would be a smart move to make since I could risk damaging more components doubling the problem. It would be nice to just replace the amp from Dayton Audio, where people say to get spare parts from. Instead of buying a whole new speaker, though I've done that before, and its a hell of a lot easier haha. Side note- the busted sub was placed directly behind my desk which is centered perfectly on the left/right and on the shorter end of the my basement not wide. The other subs are no less than 5 feet on either side of the middle sub, so last thing I need to check is the cables that connect directly to the woofer in the back as the extreme rattling from subs on all sides. Funny note, the broken sub actually felt like it was playing with the 2 other subs on either side of it because of how loud it gets back there. Like the sub actually had visible excursion and moved like it was playing haha. Although I turned the others off and silence. I'll check the connections on the speaker cable clips on the +.- behind the woofer tomorrow and update this. Also will update any other news and share any information found. Holding off on swapping out parts though. Thanks! sorry tried not to make a word wall, but its hard when I can only see two lines of what I type, will fix later.
Sounds like you may have a blown (open) speaker. Remove the speaker and measure the DC resistance if you have a ohmmeter. Should read a little under the rated impedance (4 ohms). No ohmmeter handy? Touch a 9V battery across the speaker terminals, and you should hear a pop from the speaker. No pop then you have a bad speaker. Also the speaker should move freely when you push on it. Don't push the dust cover (the dome in the center) unless you like that dented look! If the speaker is indeed bad and you can't get an OEM (P/N: 363389-001) then an aftermarket speaker should (in most cases) work fine. Just make sure it is a 12", 4 ohms and rated at 250W RMS or greater. May actually be lower than 250W but better higher than lower. Good luck!
Posted on Apr 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
im having the exact same problem thinking it was the amp i rigged up a different driver,the amp was fine.i knew the driver wasnt gone and after some looking and testing i got it down to wire mesh(i think a dust sheild,something)inside which was slightly rubbing on the coil,it worked fine loud when it was warm but cold there was bursts of bad feed back noises.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
It sounds like something on your main board of your amp is going out. It is most likely the finals, or as you said a capacitor. Test the port with another speaker, if al is well then the wooferis bad. if not you will have to go inside the amp for repair. Depending on the brand it can be a little complicated. Try and narror it down to the proper componet, post back the results and we will go from there. Also is this sound comming from all channels or just the woofer?
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
get a nice monster subwoofer cable and a Subwoofer PowerCenter™ SW 200 with Clean Power™ Stage 1 get it from like amazon and you'll definately see a difference and also put the sub in like a corner
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
i would say so sounds like woofer is dying unless u pull it apart and replace the woofer it doesnt have to be same brand just same size and watts and ohms then u can keep it
Posted on May 28, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for such a quick response. Good to get a second opinion. Much appreciated!"
SOURCE: In turning up volume on
This model has very cheap pots. What really happens is the center pin on the pot breaks leaving the wiper that rides on the carbon track to lift, causing this problem. Use caution as this condition continues the pot will go bad enough to send max volume to the system causing severe damage to the speaker, and maybe the listener. THE GREAT OZ.
Posted on Aug 16, 2011
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