Cleaned the gold-plated connector, which didn't make a difference. Opened up the front panel expecting to see some flimsy broken plastic parts, but actually they switches in there look like decent quality mini-switches and nothing seems to be wrong with it visually.
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Had same problem but solution was different. Start button looked slightly misaligned and wouldn't always work. Followed instructions to pull off front control panel, removed LED display panel and the plastic tab that the start button was attached to had broken off from the panel. Used a good epoxy to glue the edges back together and it works like new. Also broke two tabs that hold the LED panel inside the front plate due to the plastic becoming brittle. Again, epoxy is your friend. Works like new.
Ok Could be one of 3 things...... 1. Bad switch. they're realively easy to replace. Cardone/HELP makes these switches and you can get them at any auto parts store. 2. Bad ground to the window motor. 3. Bad window motor.My best advise is goes the easiest, cheapest route. Replace the swithch first. That way if it solves the problem, you only have a couple of bucks into the repair, and you didn't change anything you really didn't need to get into. If it doesn't fix it, you still have a few bucks into it and a brad new switch in it that you don't have to worry about for a long while. IF you are not mechanically inclined with automotive elctrical systems, and the switch replacement didn't work, take to a reliable mechanic and have it checked for the bad ground first. Window motors can be pricey.
Usually by plugging into that jack, the computer will notice you have done so. In some computers built by computer engineers after the failure of a motherboard or installation into a new case, the front panel audio connector is not installed so the front panel speaker and microphone connectors don't work.
You can see if your computer detects your front panel connections from Control Panel and clicking on Sound.
I would expect most shops to carry that connector
Here some links - I would expect Maplin to have a cable - however, I cant find a image on there website - so heres some links to amazon, I used the online manual - let me know whats different about these DVI connections on the TV - look the same from the manual
To replace belt or heater element you must remove the front panel complete with door. Screws are different sizes in different places so note where they belong as you remove them.
1. Remove 2 screws at rear top which go through the brackets holding the top panel, slide back the top panel a little and lift it off. 2. Pull off the rotary timer knob and remove 2 screws beneath. 3. This is the tricky bit! Remove the the plastic panel which covers the switches etc.. This panel has 5 plastic fingers which secure it to the metal plate behind, locate the ends of the fingers where they pass through the metal plate. Using a metal rod or punch and a hammer, tap the ends of the fingers to push them back through the holes easing each in turn a little at a time to avoid distorting the plastic unduly. 4. Open the door and remove the 4 screws then remove 3 screws at the top and 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel. Lift and ease forward the front panel, unhook the door catch release wire, pull off the electrical connectors and put the front panel aside. 5. Lay the machine on its back and remove 1 screw holding the element housing to the top plate and pull off the electrical connectors. 6. Fit the belt around the drum, through the idler pulleys and over the motor spindle. 7. Put it all back together.
Try resetting it. Remove front panel, on main unit is an indent that says reset, insert ballpoint to reset and replace front panel. Everything should now work although you will need to reset stations and clock.
I've finally tracked down the manual and it the fault code is as follows "Indicates a fault in the heater or in the thermistor" You can go into a fault tracing mode by pushing the "Rinse Hold" button five times within 15 seconds. The first, third, fifth and seventh lights will flash when in this mode and you can test the following parts by pressing the corresponding button. I'm going to try the heater test below and assume that if that works the fault must be with the Thermistor. The other tests could be useful for other faults. User manual found here Rinse Hold - tests detergent solenoid, detergent flaps open after about 60sec Pots & Pans - tests Rinse Aid Solenoid, rinse aid will flow down door Normal Wash - tests water inlet valve, water can be heard entering Light Wash - tests ventilator solenoid, there will be a click followed by a rattling noise Quick Wash - tests the heater, the element heats up, WARNING don’t touch element HOT Temp - tests circulation pump, the pump starts Dry - test outlet pump, the pump starts Manual says to push 55 and 65 degree button to exit, I have no idea where those are so will probably just switch off at wall to reset. Hope this helps someone. I rang ASKO and they said they didn’t know what the fault code meant so either they can’t read or their service sucks, probably a bit of both!