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you don't get at it this way,you remove top 4 screws on control panel,then slide control panel sideways to remove,then open door and at top of door land 2 screws hold top down,remove these 2 screws and remove top,then inside the front panel on either side there are 2 screws holding front panel remove these then undo door switch wires and set front panel aside,then remove belt and replace on drum
A DLE2532W has a rear control panel. To remove the top, use a putty knife to push the retaining clips in at the seam where the top meets the front panel. 2 clips, about 2 inches in from the L and R side, then the top swings up. Heating element is accessable after you take the front panel off.
Step 1, remove dryer top: remove three phillips head screws from the back edge of dryers top.
stand in front of dryer and push back sharply about 2 inches on the dryer's top using the palms of your hands. Lift top up and off.
Step 2, remove control panel: remove phillips screws from back side of control panel corners and release clips along top edge of control panel, allowing panel to be taken off and set on top of dryer.
Step 3, remove front panel: Open door, remove phillips screws located at 4 and 8 O'clock positions at door opening. remove phillips head screws along fron panel's top edge. tilt panel forward and unplug light, door switch, and moisture sensor (at bottom of panel) and then set panel aside and out of your way.
To change the belt you'll need to remove the top paenl and then remove the drum and you would be able to see the belt. You can disassemble it by the following procedure--
Drum Removal / Roller / Glide Access--
Disconnect power supply to unit.
Remove Top Cover and Front Panel,
Top Cover / Door Switch / Front Panel /Gasket Removal-
1. Disconnect power supply to unit. 2. Use a plastic putty knife to depress the locking clip between the Top Cover and Front Panel. 3. Disconnect wiring from the Door Switch. 4. Depress the locking tabs on switch side and remove through the front. 5. Remove two screws, 1 each side, from the back flange of the Front Panel. 6. Tip Front Panel back and remove. Rotate Front Panel to the back side and remove gasket.
Hope this helps...
yes the water inlet valve is bad! might be easier to remove the base, when you remove the base the back stays connected to the frame. just unplug the machine,remove the end caps on your control panel and remove the screws holding it on, them pull slightly forward and up to fllip the control panel back it has plastic hinges on top,be careful not to break them. then unplug your lid switch, with a screwdriver remove the 2 gold clips that hold the base to the back panel, then open your lid lift from back towards you and the whole base will come off leaving the back panel and frame, should be a whole lot easier to replace the valve, then replace reversing your steps , when you are lifting off the base look at the bottom of machine through your lid and you can see how to put it back on the frame! not to hard!
It can be changed out without removing the front panel. There are special tools designed to remove and re-install the spring clamps which hold the gasket on, but you can do it with long nose pliers or other implements. It is more difficult to do with the panel on, but it can be done. If you want to remove the front panel: Remove bottom screws from plastic parts on the back edge of the washer top. Stand in front of machine and use the palms of your hands to sparply push back the washer's top about 2 inches, then lift it off. Remove screws from support frame to control panel. Remove dispenser drawer by opening it and pushing the tab on the top back side down while pulling the dispenser the remaining way out. Remove screws from behind dispenser drawer. Release tabs along the top edge of the control panel (watch out for sharp edges) and swing the control panel up on top of the washer drum. Remove spring clamp from front of rubber door gasket. Open access door panel on lower left of front panel. Use small hose to drain out remaining water. Remove phillips head screw in recess, then use plastic putty knife to push inward on the left or right edge of rectangular housing around the recess to remove recess. Remove screws at bottom from bottom of front panel into frame (located behind plastic recess) Remove screws along top edge of front panel. Tilt front panel forward and unplug door switch. Set front panel to the side.
Not too bad. Unplug. Remove three screws along back, at top edge. Stand in front of dryer and, using the palms of your hands, push back sharply on the top (L & R sides) to slide it back about 2 inches, then lift top off. Remove 2 phillips head screws at 5 and 7 O'clock position behind door. Remove screws holding top control from top corners. Pull top of control panel loose from retaining clips along top. (watch for sharp edges) Set control panel on top of dryer. Remove 4 screws now accessable at top of front panel. Un-plug light, door switch, lift front panel off, and unplug sensor at bottom. Set front panel aside. Remove 4 screws at front of side panel holding front bulkhead (with drum rollers attached), lift up bulkhead and remove. Reach under drum to unhook belt. Remove drum. The hardest part is pobably hooking the belt back on with the tension pulley while reassembling. On a scale of 1 - 10, it rates about a 5.5. First one might take an hour and a half. If you've done a few, you can knock 'em out in about 20 minutes.
Remove the power plug from the wall socket. The front panel must be removed after getting the case top loose--remove screws from back near the top, then slide top back and lift the front of the top. The front panel is held by screws near the top inside, then lift panel off. Remove wiring from inside the panel and set panel aside. Take back lower panel off and release the drive belt from the motor. Remove the drum--screws inside near center. Leave belt around the drum and set aside. You now have access to the heating element. Reverse the above to reassemble. Whew!!