Question about Ovens
Google the company that the oven was made by and search manuals for your oven, then look under features
Posted on Apr 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE JGRP17 Gas Oven
Rosanne, he problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in
series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of
electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to
"bake". When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow
through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.
Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.
First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN OR TURN IT OFF AT THE BREAKER!
To replace it... Remove the racks and look up at the broiler manifold. You'll see the igniter mounted at the rear (the round thing with 2 wires going to it). You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.
(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)
The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter, tuck any loose wires as far back into the oven as possible and replace the racks.
(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)
There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
Posted on Oct 11, 2007
The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked. the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
Go here to get the manual -
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
The power is going out to the control panel. It is easy to replace the whole controller. Be careful of the key pad cable. it will break easily. The part is $225 for the controller and $172 for the key pad. There are 4 resisters that heat up and a zen diode that fails DZ1. U1 also may fail. My RBD306PDB10 works great now. Do pay attention to the cavity size after re-installing the board.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
SOURCE: Oven Door Lock
We have a Jenn-Aire self cleaning oven. The cleaning latch would only open if BOTH knobs for the cleaned oven are set to cleaning. Then the latch opened right away.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Aug 29, 2011 | Frigidaire Ovens
Jun 26, 2011 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
Dec 17, 2009 | Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven
Nov 15, 2009 | GE Ovens
Oct 22, 2009 | Whirlpool RBS305PD Electric Single Oven
Jun 04, 2008 | GE JKP20 Electric Single Oven
Mar 29, 2008 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
You can fix a suggested fix at the following link:
Even though you are not getting an error message, they are sometime stored in memory and have to be repeated a number of times before they show up in the display. I have shared this fix with over 1300 folks and most report success. I hope that it works for you too. Please let me know at email@example.com.
Oct 15, 2007 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Oct 18, 2017 | Ovens
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