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Superconductor fridge won't cool.The fans,light'switch,etc. work, but it does not get cold at all

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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HVACRH20
  • 237 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge is not cold but the light will turn on...

Try to uplug it for a few minutes then plug back in. Let us know if the compressor and fan kick on then otherwise we'll have to give more advice on where to look, etc.

Posted on Dec 26, 2006

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  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: Zanussi fridge freezer

sounds like the freezer evaporator has iced /frosted up and you will not get cold airflow through it. try a 24 hour defrost to clear it. then check fridge cooling.

Posted on Jun 04, 2007

SOURCE: Freezer Working, but Fridge side is not cold.

Excuse me, will not cool lower that 45.

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

rylee_smith
  • 8619 Answers

SOURCE: freezer working fine but fridge wont go cold!

Hi

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


Please revert for further assistance and Do rate the solution as "FixYa" if found useful.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

landsend
  • 1066 Answers

SOURCE: haier fridge- freezer fine, fridge not getting

The small cooling fan in the freezer compartment that sends chilled air to the food side is defective and needs replacement.  Sometimes that are only frozen stuck.



When you receive advice from this website you have to understand that without the item in front of us, we are only able to provide "a best guess" as to what the problem might be based on you description of the defect.  If you haven't described a clear and precise description of the defect you decrease the chances of an accurate reply.  Thank you. 

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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1 Answer

Top of the refrigerator is not cooling and the freezer portion is to cold


Main cooling happens in the freezer.

Since top (fridge part) not getting cooling the sensor in that part is continuously asking for cold. So the freezer get colder and colder.

Fridge part not cooling can be due to one of the many reasons.

Evaporator fan, Defrosting problem, Damper motor issues etc etc.

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The ice is blocking the air blower in the frizer and it won't deprost. The friges can't get any cold unless if I put it high.


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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Refridgerator is not working will not get cold


Here is the basic idea on how to keep the refrigerator, air conditioner, or vacuum cleaner to work properly. Air is moved by an electric fan or blower in order for that product to work properly. If air movement is blocked the fridge won't get cold, the central air conditioner won't cool enough, the vacume cleaner won't clean as well. Check on your fridge's air movement by inspecting the bottom of the fridge for dust and cob webs. Remove the front bottom clip-on plastic grill. Or also even access the lower back of the fridge by removeing the screws holding up the heavy cardboard cover to see inside. Blockage of air flow will prevent a fridge from getting cold. Just like a vacume cleaner stops working when the bag is filled with dust and fibers.

The air could be blocked by the accumulation of dust and fibers. Look under your fridge if it is cloged, it will look just like the stuff on a dirty central air filter.

Dust and fiber buildup blocking the fridge's air movement from back to front (or visa-versa) of your fridge will slowly (years) prevent how good it cools. The build-up of dust and cobwebs prevents your fridge from cooling (more specifically prevents the heat to disapate from the metal heat disipating fins attached to the metal tubes to be blown off by the fans air). OK! Remedy for a vacuum cleaner REPLACE THE CLOGED VACUUM BAG.

Remedy for your fridge manually REMOVE THE CLOGING DUST AND FIBERS FROM UNDER YOUR FRIDGE. SORRY fridge manufacturers do not provide a dust filter like the vacume cleaner and central air systems manufacturers do. You have to figger out the best way you can clean it. Possibly vacuum with a crevice tool, or use a small brush than vacuum. The extreme would be unplug the fridge ( so you won't get electrocuted) bring a water hose into the kitchen and spray water at cobweb buildup at the bottom fridge, than wet vac the floor then wait 20 minutes to dry before pluging the fridge back into the electric outlet.
When you stand in front of your fridge and you hear the fridge electric motor turn on, the fan will blow air.The fridge

May 30, 2011 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

I have a Maytag PBF2255HEW refrigerator. It won't get cold and I just installed a new control board. When you shut the door and reopen it, the fridge and freezer control shows nothing, but if you...


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this will help in solving the problem....

May 08, 2011 | GE GDS18LBR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

2 Answers

Fridge running warmer than it should, Cooling fan on back doesn't turn, the compressor/condensor running very hot , and no new ice being made. Cleaned the cooling grid which was full of dust.


Here is the basic idea on how to keep the refrigerator, air conditioner, or vacuum cleaner to work properly. Air is moved by an electric fan or blower in order for that product to work properly. If air movement is blocked the fridge won't get cold, the central air conditioner won't cool enough, the vacume cleaner won't clean as well. Check on your fridge's air movement by inspecting the bottom of the fridge for dust and cob webs. Remove the front bottom clip-on plastic grill. Or also even access the lower back of the fridge by removeing the screws holding up the heavy cardboard cover to see inside. Blockage of air flow will prevent a fridge from getting cold. Just like a vacuum cleaner stops working when the bag is filled with dust and fibers. The air could be blocked by the accumulation of dust and fibers. Look under your fridge if it is cloged, it will look just like the stuff on a dirty central air filter.

Dust and fiber buildup blocking the fridge's air movement from back to front (or visa-versa) of your fridge will slowly (years) prevent how good it cools. The build-up of dust and cobwebs prevents your fridge from cooling (more specifically prevents the heat to disapate from the metal heat disipating fins attached to the metal tubes to be blown off by the fans air). OK! Remedy for a vacuum cleaner REPLACE THE CLOGED VACUUM BAG.

Remedy for your fridge manually REMOVE THE CLOGING DUST AND FIBERS FROM UNDER YOUR FRIDGE. SORRY fridge manufacturers do not provide a dust filter like the vacume cleaner and central air systems manufacturers do. You have to figger out the best way you can clean it. Possibly vacuum with a crevice tool, or use a small brush than vacuum. The extreme would be unplug the fridge ( so you won't get electrocuted) bring a water hose into the kitchen and spray water at cobweb buildup at the bottom fridge, than wet vac the floor then wait 20 minutes to dry before pluging the fridge back into the electric outlet.
When you stand in front of your fridge and you hear the fridge electric motor turn on, the fan will blow air.The fridge

Apr 11, 2011 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

2 Answers

Fridge and freezer not staying cold - Got home last night and my whirlpool (frost free) fridge/freezer was switched on (power running to it - light etc working) but was not chilling properly. Everything in...


This can happen if the fan motor in the freezer compartment is bad. Causes the freezer section to freeze up and you will not get air circulating, so no cooling. Check the fanmotor

Nov 06, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Refrigerator compartment cools correctly for a few days then no longer receives cold air from freezer. The freezer continues to operate and gets much colder than it should.


does your fan blow? freezers have a fan that pushes cold air to the fridge side if fan is bad freezer will run extremely cold and fridge won't cool down and since frige won't cool down thermostat in fridge doesn't tell compressor to stop

Feb 26, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge not cooling


Hi,

Your description is quite complete but is rather baffling. Pls bear with me while we process by elimination. A few basic/working ideas:
  • most designs call for a single compressor to cool the freezer;
  • the cold air in the freezer is drawn towards the fridge to cool that area;
  • this is performed by a fan drawing air in the freezer through the evaporator;
  • most would have a vent or air pathway to guide the freezer air;
  • all would have thermostatic control to set the desired temperature;
  • some designs have two thermostatic control , 1 for the freezer, 1 for the fridge.
As applied to your concern:
  • compressor is working since freezer is OK;
  • fan is working as you posted but is the air drawn from the freezer, better still, is the air forced/vented into the fridge?
  • could you please check that the air is strongly blown into the fridge area;
  • a little experiment, open the fridge door, look for and press on the door switch, the light should go out, after a lengthy seconds, the fan should trigger on, not only would it be audible, you would notice the frozen air swirling inside the fridge area. If you hold on long enough to the dorr switch, the compressor should kick in (if it is not already running) since the thermostat of the fridge area (if one is present) would sense that the fan is turning but the fridge area is not cooling.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Oct 02, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator stopped working, freezer works fine


Sounds like the evap fan is not running. The fan takes cold air from the freezer to cool the refer compartment. If the freezer is cold the compressor is running. Generally the freezer will stay cold since the cooling coils are there but it must have the fan working to get the air up to the refer area. Pull everything out the freezer and take the back panel off to view the coils and fan, etc. It's a simple easy job to change the fan. If you find the coils are a total block of ice then it's another problem... the defrost cycle isn't working. Sooo... see if the fan is running in the freezer compartment first. See http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/AA43-57.gif for fan location, item 18 is the fan motor. Let us know what you find out.

Jan 02, 2007 | Jenn-Air JFC2089HE French Door...

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