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Windows could not start because of a computer disk hardware configuration problem could not read

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Well really need more info like what model what operating system so on. So it looks like the master pin on the hard drive is not set to primary master position. That pin set is different depending on manufacture. A Western Digital master pin set is actually no pin at all. So if you have the CDROM set as master and the pin set wrong on the hard drive the pc will not recognize a boot device. However if you have not changed anything in the pc at all the hard drive most likely bad.

Posted on Mar 31, 2015


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Aspire M1100 boot up problem

Method 1

Edit the Boot.ini file to restore or correct the Default entry and to ensure that the other entries in the [Operating Systems] section of the Boot.ini file point to the appropriate directories.

Method 2

Use the Bootcfg utility in the Recovery Console to correct the Boot.ini file:

1. Use the Windows XP CD-ROM to start your computer.
2. When you receive the message to press R to repair Windows by using the Recovery Console, press the R key.
3. Select the Windows installation that you want, and then type the administrator password when prompted.
4. Type bootcfg /rebuild, and then press ENTER.
5. When the Windows installation is located, the following instructions are displayed:
Add installation to boot list? (Yes/No/All)
[Type Y in response to this message.]

Enter Load Identifier:
[This is the name of the operating system. Type Windows XP Professional or Windows XP Home Edition.]

Enter OS Load options:
[Leave this field blank, and then press ENTER].
After you perform the preceding steps, restart the computer, and then select the first item on the boot menu. This should allow Windows XP to start normally.

After Windows XP has successfully loaded, the Boot.ini can be modified to remove the incorrect entry.

Method 3

1. Start the computer by using your Windows XP CD-ROM. Press any key to boot from the CD.
2. After the setup files are finished loading press R to repair using Recovery Console.
3. When you are in the recovery console, select the installation to log on to (usually number 1), and then press ENTER.
4. Login to the Administrator account by typing the password for this account, and then press ENTER.
5. At the recovery console command prompt, type the following command, and then press ENTER:

For Uni-Processor systems:
expand <cd-drive>:\i386\ntoskrnl.ex_ <hd-drive>:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
For Multi-Processor systems:
expand <cd-drive>:\i386\ntkrnlmp.ex_ <hd-drive>:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
Note In these two commands, the <cd-drive> placeholder represents the drive letter of your CD drive, and the <hd-drive> placeholder represents the drive letter of the hard disk on which windows is installed.
6. If you receive a prompt to overwrite the file, press Y.
7. Type exit, and press ENTER at the command prompt.

Method 4
Start the computer by using the Recovery Console, and then run theCHKDSK /rcommand.

Note You do not have to include the /p switch in the Chkdsk command-line because the /r switch causes the Chkdsk utility to locate bad sectors and recover readable information. This command implies the /p switch..

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: My Dell E521 desktop dvd / dvdrw drives don't work


These instructions are for XP but it works in Vista too. The difference being how you get to the Command Promp and plus sign (+) vs. arrows.

1. Click Start.
2. Click Run.
3. In the "Open" field type REGEDIT.
4. Click OK.
5. Click "File" in the menu bar.
6. Click "Export" from the drop down menu this will open a new box.
7. Click the down arrow beside "Save In" and select "Local Disk (C".
8. In the File Name field type BACKUP.REG.
9. Verify that under the “Export Range”, that the radio button is beside "All".
10. Click Save.
11. Click the plus sign (+) beside HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
12. Click the plus sign (+) beside System.
13. Click the plus sign (+) beside CurrentControlSet.
14. Click the plus sign (+) beside Control.
15. Click the plus sign (+) beside Class.
16. In the left hand window pane click on {4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318} to select that key.
17. In the right hand window pane select the UpperFilters registry key and press the delete key on the keyboard.
18. Confirm with an OK.
19. In the right hand window pane select the LowerFilters registry key and press the delete key on the keyboard.
20. Confirm with an OK.
21. Click the "X" in the upper right hand corner of the Registry Editor window to close it.

Restart your Computer in order for the registry - fix to work.

Please leave me comment, if you need further assistance
Thanks for using FixYa
Rnj VinodKumar

Posted on Mar 10, 2010

  • 1768 Answers

SOURCE: i wanted to wipe my

1. you will need to know 1st that the hard drive you are installing is compatible with the desktop.
2. Is the hard drive compatible with the new Operating system (VISTA).
3. Check to see if you have the hard drive properly inserted that is properly cabled and connected.This will render error in installation.
4. Make sure you are installing the Operating system correctly.
5. Some boot sectors become corrupt during a change in Operating system if the hard drive is not properly formatted.
6. Try formatting the hard drive again and re-installing.

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Gateway DX4710-05 desktop. System crashed.

Try it again

Sometimes you have to 'slap' Windows around

Still no?

You need to know beyond a shadow of a doubt, that the Power Supply is good.

No, I don't mean, "I see LED's light, and fans spin. As you can see from my statements Windows started to load"

A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will have more than enough power to light those simpy LED's, and spin fans, but will not have enough power to turn the Processor on, or keep it on.

1) If ALL of the LED's were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical processor can use 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.

Gateway DX4710-05?

Intel Core2 Quad Core Q6600,

THAT, sir; is a Power HOG,

Can use Up To -> 95 to 105 Watts.

Was the inside of the computer dirty also?

There are 3 main voltage power rails.
Three main voltages come out of the Power Supply;
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

(In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.
The dangerous AC voltage coming into the Power Supply, is kept contained in the Power Supply's metal case )

You can use an economical multimeter to test. Around here they average $5 to $12.
I can guide you step by step.

Not feasible for you?
Then is there a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; you can borrow for a temporary test unit?

Needs to be a MINIMUM of 400 Watts for your computer.
If it is a 300 Watt unit that is the problem.
500 Watt unit? Better still.

[Honey I'm going to borrow the Power Supply out of your computer.
I'll put it back when I'm done.
What's that? I'll be sleeping on the couch if I do? [Lol! ]

Does this mean run out, and buy a Power Supply?

This is a diagnosis. Leave parts changing to B.Buy.
Buy the multimeter.
It's less expensive, you can reuse it for a LOT of things, and you won't be coming back here to E-slap me around.

Power Supply is good? You already checked that?
Then look at the Capacitors on the motherboard.

(You can SET your mouse cursor in the middle of the photo, and this will enable the Zoom In feature)

The Processor socket is right there where the JK, of JK Computer Parts is located.

Around it you will see small 'aluminum cans', that have a Red mark on one side. (On top)
These are Solid Polymer Capacitors.
If one of these babies are bad you'll know it. They explode like a small grenade.

The one's I would like you to be concerned with, are the
Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.
These are the taller 'can's, that have a Black plastic sleeve on them.

They are all over the motherboard.

See if you see any that have visual signs of failure,

(I see your statement of having replaced the Harddrive.
Do I assume you FOLLOWED Anti-Static Procedures, also?
If not post in a Comment, and I'll post Anti-Static Procedures.
DO NOT reach inside your computer again until you receive them)

Power Supply is good, no bad 'caps', and trying second time Windows won't load?

Suggest Harddrive controller on motherboard is bad. It's a Chipset.
Replace motherboard.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

[Capacitors are used as Filters, and also Voltage Regulators.
The one's used as voltage regulators, are in the Motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit.

Part of what the motherboard voltage regulator circuit does, is regulate voltage for the Processor.

The Processor (CPU) MUST have a steady, 'clean', supply of voltage, and it MUST be kept within the tight tolerance range for the Processor.

Too little, or too much, and the Processor turns off.
(BIOS turns it off)

Those Solid Polymer Capacitors that surround the Processor socket, are part of the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, that deals with the Processor.

However, there are also other capacitors that are in this circuit, that are NOT located near the Processor socket.

Some of those Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, may be in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, that handles the Processor.

So do not assume that if the solid ones are good, that they are all there is in this circuit,

{They are Radial in design, because both leads come out of one side. The BOTTOM.
If they were Axial, one lead would come out of each end }

Posted on Apr 13, 2013

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