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Removing the pump from a pressure washer can be easy, or it can be extremely hard. The first thing is knowing what you are going to remove and what you are not. Whether on an electric motor or a gas engine( the power source), a pressure washer pump consists of three parts; The manifold( the brass or aluminum part the water comes out of), the transmission( the oil side of the pump) and the flange( where it bolts to the motor or engine).
When removing the pump to replace it, you need to remove it at the flange. Normally after you take the three or four bolts mounting the flange to the power source, the pump will slide right off. Sometimes however, years of sitting out in the weather makes the pump stick on. There also might be a set screw holding the hollow shaft on to the shaft from the power source.
Make sure any set screws are loosened and try to pry the pump off by sticking a screwdriver between the power source and the pump and gently prying. If that doesn’t work try sticking the bolts back in the flange but very loose and starting the power source. The vibration from the motor or engine will break the pump loose most of the time. After that, if the pump is still firmly attached, you may need to either knock it off with a hammer (this will most likely damage the pump beyond repair) or use a torch and cut it off (this will damage the pump beyond repair and there is a chance you will damage the oil seal on the power source). If worse comes to worse you can take it to a qualified service center and have them remove the pump for you.
corrosion on shaft, keep tapping with hammer and levering off, spray shaft if possible and allow soak time, please be gentle, keep tapping. stay away from bolt holes as they are the weakest point, usually time to replace pump head,
This is a bracket mount that has the axle shaft going thru it on the passenger side . the axle must be removed from mount before it can be removed . there is a single bolt that presses against the axle shaft bearing and a snap ring that holds the bearing in the mount once removed the axle will slide out .
Remove the 4 mounting bolts and it will slide of the shaft if it's not rusted. If it's a little rusty it will take time and some good rust buster applied between the pump and engine onto the engine output shaft. Hope this helps, it's not always the easiest thing to do.
they are almost always on keyed shafts with maybe 4 bolts on a flange. remove the bolts and see if the pump slides off.... we have had many seized together and requiring extreme measure to part them (big hammer)
There may be no good news for you. Once those hollow shaft pumps seize to a engine shaft, they can be real buggers. In fact, they can be impossible.
But before you give up and completely destroy the pump to remove it from the shaft -- the mounting flange has threaded holes that are designed for taking the pump off. The bolts that you removed go through unthreaded holes on the pump flange and into threaded holes on the engine. On the pump flange, there are also either two or four threaded holes. So you take the same bolts and screw them into the threaded flange holes -- the idea being they will contact the engine as you screw them down and push the pump outward.
BUT: this does not always provide a fix. That flange is made out of cast aluminum so it is not very strong. It breaks quite easily. So your best shot at getting the pump off this way is to go slow. Put some oil on the bolt threads, so they will turn easily. Try to bring them up to equal pressure and then use a meium hammer to "ping" somewhere. Remember though, the entire pump casing is made out of this cast alluminum and is very brittle. It is easy to knock a hole in the pump with a hammer. But alternating with some persistent pinging and then tightening the bolts a little more (tighten/ping/tighten/ping) is the shot you have. When tightening down on the bolts - equal pressure on each side is very important. And I can't over emphasis....just a little bit at the time! And if you can (if there is room) pinging on the engine shaft a git can help too.
If it seems to move a little, but then gets even more resistent, oil the engine shaft and knock the pump back down and then start over going in the off direction. This is because once you get some oil under the hollow pump shaft it usually will free up.
From someone who knows how frustrating it is, I hope this helps you. If it does, please take a sec to rate me. Thanks! Don
Hopefully anti-seize compound was used on the shaft of the engine when the pump was installed at the factory(most pumps will slip on either 3/4 or 1 inch shaft with key way). After you remove the four mounting bolts from the engine, the pump will slide off the shaft (most all do not lock the hollow pump mount to the shaft with set screw). Most likely you will need to work it off. Apply wd40 or Liquid wrench and allow some time for it to do its magic. If the pump is really stuck or rusted on the shaft, use metal wedges on both opposite sides between the pump and engine. Use caution when forcing the pump off because side plate of engine is not that strong. Good luck
To change the drive belt you must unplug the washer and lay it forward on its front. Put some cardboard down so not to scratch the paint. Remove the two screws holding the rear panel and remove panel. Undo two bolts holding the pump on. There are three bolts holding the transmission into the washer. Locate the one bolt which has a spacer between the transmission and the post under the transmission. Remove the silver spring at the corner of the transmission. Remove the belt from the large silver pulley.
You will notice the part with the two coils called the wig wag. Under the left coil is a flat shaft. Rotate the large pulley to advance the flat shaft till its as far forward as possible. Insert a large screwdriver into the slot of the flat shaft until it comes out of the vertical shaft that it is inserted into by rotating the pulley with the screwdriver inserted into the slot in the shaft. Drop the vertical shaft till it almost comes out of the slot of the transmission it is inserted into. Tap the gray yoke off the top of the vertical shaft to allow enough room to slide the belt out. Slide the belt from where you removed the transmission bolt and spacer. You should now be able to remove the belt.
Slide the new belt through the space where the bolt and spacer was removed.
Slide the belt through where the vertical shaft was lowered.
Position the belt around all pulleys except the pump pulley.
Reinstall the transmission spacer and bolt.
Reinstall the flat shaft through the vertical round shaft by lining the flat shaft with the slot in the vertical shaft and rotating the large silver pulley until the flat shaft goes all the way through the vertical shaft.
Tap the yoke back into the top of the vertical shaft with the white plastic clip.
Reinstall the spring.
Line the pump pulley behind the belt and make sure the pump activator is positioned into the groove of the flat shaft controlled by the wig wag.
insert the two pump bolts.
You should be ready to go.