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If other electrical components are working, then you probably have a bad display module, or possibly even just a ribbon cable between the display and the main circuit board that got pinched and is no longer transmitting power or data to the display.
If you can remove the ribbon cable you can use an ohm meter to determine whether there is a broken wire by touching the two ends of each wire with the leads from your ohm meter. If the ribbon cable is working properly, then it's time to replace the display.
Indicating the make/model of the appliance would help others to identify replacement parts as well as provide instructions on how to remove panels to access those parts.
range sounds like it is need of an oven igniter .over time the igniter
can become weak and it looks like it is glowing but the part itself is
not pulling enough amperage to open your gas valve, this is a safety
feature I would start there those parts generally run less than 100
It is possible that the igniter is bad but you will need to test it first. Disconnect the wiring harness and use a ohm meter on the connector for the igniter(should get 500 to 700 ohms). If you get a open reading or a very low ohm reading then the igniter is bad. Verify that the wiring harness coming from the oven control has around 120volts when the oven thermostat is in demand using a voltage meter. You can also have the igniter tested at most stores that sell replacement appliance parts.
If you have an Ohm meter, then test anything you feel is failed. No sense in replacing good parts.
I am surprised that there is no wiring diagram somewhere on the unit, like in the control head, or on the top or back (most units built in the U.S. over the past 30 years have them. Don't know about UK, which is where I assume you are.).
Let me know! The overload on the back should have a red reset button. The thermal fuse has to be replaced if it's failed, and normally when it fails, the control head will not work. It usually does not carry enough current to power the elements.
Usually this is due to a bad main clock/electronic control in the control panel but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohm meter and the wiring diagram located within the appliance. If possible use the meter and the wiring diagram to check input/output voltages looking for discrepancies between the diagram and the actual meter readings.
Usually this turns out to be a problem with the main clock/electronic control but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohm meter and the wiring diagram located within the appliance. If possible use the meter and the wiring diagram to check input/output voltages looking for discrepancies between the diagram and the actual meter readings.
This is not rocket science and an OHM meter can be used for many things. Any good appliance parts place, even Wal-Mart will have a meter which can be set to test AC/DC, OHM's etc. Set the meter on OHM setting and touch the two leads on the meter together, you will see the meter arm move. This is simply a test for continuity. Now take the element out of the Range, touch one lead to one end of the element and the other lead to the other end. If you do not get any reading then there is a break inside the element and must be replaced. If you get any reading at all then the element is good and the eye switch must be replaced.
There are some parts which require knowing how many OHM's but in this case you just need to check for a break inside the element (continuity).
You can check an extension cord this way or set it on the volts setting and check batteries. all kinds of fun.