Question about Frigidaire FGHB2844LF French Door Refrigerators
Refrigerator stopped cooling. had a power failure indicator light and a high temp indicator light. hit reset and the power failure light went out, but the high temp (was at 54 degrees) came back on. freezer seems to be working ok, no ice build up in the freezer. 1 year ago similar issue and the repairman replaced a fan (I think it was the fan that blows from the freezer to the refrigerator section, but I was not around then, explained to me by my girlfriend). Any ideas? Thanks, Wayne
You said the freezer is working fine, so that would rule out compressor failure. If the fan motor is working on the system, check the vents and make sure they are not blocked. Sometimes, food will be placed in fron of the vents inside the freezer and inside the refrigerator compartment, blocking the exchange of air. If vents are not obstructed it may be the circuit board that controls or regulates the temperature for the refrigerator side. If your unit has a control setting, turn it off for a few minutes, this will allow it to re-set, then turn it back on and re-set the temperature settings if they don't go back to factory pre-set. Most units are pre-set at the factory for economy, but the consumer can set them lower or higher manually for more desired settings. If it is the control, you can usually replace it yourself with a new part and save money, or have a service tech do it. A power surge or power failure could have disrupted the system and caused the original factor settings to be lost, and they need to be reset. Hope that helps.
Posted on Apr 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Welshons, Take a look at the picture Im posting. Did your evaporator look like it? If so your system may be restricted. This is a pretty common problem in Frigidaire top mounts. The good news is that it would be covered under warranty if it is not over 5 years old. As long as your condensor fan is running and the condensor is clean, evaporator not frosted up and evap fan running. I would think that you have a weak compressor or a restriction. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Oct 20, 2006
Sounds like a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary defrost the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work for 2 to 3 weeks.
To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain.
The defrost systems is:
Adaptive defrost control
Start with the adaptive defrost control board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A �d� in the freezer temperature window and �F� in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. �d� and �F� will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
Heater / Thermostat
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
Posted on Aug 10, 2008
The defrost system is not doing it's job. I bet if you took the panel off below the fan you will see more ice on the cooling coils. There should be a light coat of frost on the coils but not a heavy ice build up. There is a heating element at the bottom area of these coils which should be defrosting all this ice.
1. A defrost timer turns this heating element on.
2. The heating element melts the ice.
3. A thermo disc attached to the coils will turn the heater off.
One or more of these are not doing it's job.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
That sounds like the start relay is buzzing. Unplug and lets check the compressor to see how hot and if too hot to hold your hand on the top of compressor we need to leave it unplugged until we find out if the start relay, start capacitor, overload or if the condenser fan stops after running a short while. Sea Breeze
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
YOUR REF. MAY BE STUCK IN DEFROST. IN THE CEILING OF YOUR REF. THERE IS A CONTROL HOUSING. THERE IS AN ACCESS HOLE ABOUT 6 INCHES BACK MORE OR LESS IN THAT AREA. INSIDE THIS HOLE IS A ROUND GREY, BLACK OR RED PIECE THAT CAN BE TURNED IN ONE DIRECTION WITH A FLAT BLADE SCREW DRIVER. TURN IT. IF IT STARTS YOU WILL NEED A DEFROST TIMER. NEED MORE HELP JUST ASK.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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