Question about Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Capacity Plus Electric Dryer

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Panel working on whirlpool duet electric dryer but will not start drying

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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  • Contributor
  • 30 Answers

There is a set of repair instructions for this simple repair available at www.AnyoneCanFixIt.com. Specifically in the Household section at:
http://www.anyonecanfixit.com/household.htm

It's a quick and easy fix.

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet dryer will not

press the cancel button on the machine. Then do this. press and hold the start button for 2 seconds then release wait 2 seconds and press and hold again for 2 seconds continue this pattern until the dryer goes into test mode. You will see all the lights on the control light up. press each button on the control one at a time 3 times each. (Do not press the cancel button) until the dryer begins to run. When the dryer starts to run then press the cancel button. Then your machine should function properly. This is a secret test and reset for your dryers control, so please keep this between us. The whirlpool people would be heart broke if they see this posted on the web ;-) . If your dryer will still not start after this test, you may need a new control. If you need a part let me know and I can ship it right to you. Good luck and I hope this will fixYa and saves you the $400.00 it would cost for whirlpool to send a certified tech to come to your home.
Mike Anderson
Anderson Appliance Repair
9865)945-3808

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer WED9600 Beeping during drying

Dear Customer

Please perform the following



please rate this,thank u

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 396 Answers

SOURCE: dryer runs, no heat Whirlpool duet 9250

Most likely, it is the thermostat which controls the heating element. The Bios Thermostat will have two wires connected to a round disc which has a flange and screw holes to hold it next to the blower vent or the center of the drum. Use an ohm meter to see if it open or take it to an appliance parts store to have them check it for you. You may also see a thermal fuse and a high temperature cut-off thermostat which should not read open with an ohm meter. Any open thermostat will prevent the heater element from turning on. The part should be about $25.00.

Posted on Feb 15, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet GEW9250PW1 electric dryer squeals

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks, so now how do I get the extended warranty plan to pay for it. They will not send someone out for squeaks and squeals. "

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: My whirlpool duet electric dryer not drying in any

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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    • A Whirlpool Duet dryer has a latch on the interior frame of the door. It essentially locks the door closed when the dryer is operating to keep you from opening the door and becoming injured by the tumbling drum. The dryer can only run when the latch is secured. If the latch breaks, a dryer might start but shut off prematurely. Open the door and press the latch down with your finger. It should make a ticking sound when you release it. Replace it if it doesn't.

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    • A dryer's power cord delivers electricity from the electrical outlet to the machine. If the power cord isn't firmly plugged into the outlet, it can interfere with the electricity transfer. While your Whirlpool Duet dryer might start, it probably will shut off soon afterward if the cord is wobbly. Also, if cords wires are visible through the rubber encasing, the cord might be defective. Though the dryer turns on, a faulty power cord might not be able to sustain the dryer's long-term operation.


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Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

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small_8_19.jpg For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.

redarrow.gif
Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Gas Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Gas Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Gas GE Style
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Electric Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Electric GE Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

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