Question about Technics SL-1200MK2 Turntable
Posted by Anonymous on
I have seen this problem many times.
If you are comfortable with soldering, try replacing the drive IC. This solves the problem 90% of the time. The part number is: AN6675 . This is a discontinued part so you may have to search around a bit, but you can usually find one of them on eBay for between $25 - $40. There are a few newer versions of the chip that are suggested as replacements, but most of them have been on back order for years and you could end up waiting forever. I'd stick with the OEM part number on eBay. Just be sure it is in stock before you buy.
If you are not comfortable with delicate soldering or want a fix that is easy and 100% sure to work, I suggest replacing the whole motor board. This may sound extreme but it's really not. These are discontinued as well, but are usually easy to find on eBay. I've purchased many of these for less than $115. That may seem expensive at first, but it is still way cheaper than the $300 - $400 price a repair shop will charge. Be sure to purchase from a reputable seller with good history and, be sure that it is in good working order. Some are not, so carefully check the description. Some may look a little different than yours due to minor changes over the years, but as long as it is listed as compatible with the MK2 series, it will work fine. This is the most fool proof option if you don't mind the price. Like I said before, it is super easy and always works.
If anyone else is having trouble with a Technics SL1200/1210 MK2, this link is a must have:
I used this page again and again to save time identifying problems. Extremely useful. Good luck. EW
Posted on Jan 01, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: speed regulator.
First and foremost, are you located in the U.S.? If so, make sure your unit's voltage is set to 115V rating. The switch is located under the turntable platter. All you need is a flat head screwdriver to turn it to the proper voltage. If it's on 220V, you need to change it. If you are not in the U.S., or it is already set @ the proper voltage rating, your problem could be one or many issues with the drive, and pitch control. There are various resistors, capacitors, IC's and variable resistors, which control the drive. Any one of these could have gone bad on you. Do you have a runaway operation, or is it doing that back and forth movement? In either case, this cannot be self repaired, and you will have to take it to a qualified service center for repair. Cost will run you anywhere from $60-120 - if they go higher than that, they either do not know what they are doing, or they are trying to pull one over on you. We work on these on a daily basis, and should cost you more than that. However, prices do depend on where you live (we are in NYC). Good luck!
Posted on Sep 23, 2007
need to know if it powers up. Does it try to spin, do you hear it trying to spin? More than likely the on/off switch went bad. No, I am not referring to the ON/OFF knob. THere is a switch this engages when turned. The part is S601. You might also want to replace the Start/Stop switch as well. If neither work, then the issue is on the main PC board, and probably IC101, or IC201 with the problem. At this stage, you will have to have a service tech look at your unit.
Posted on Nov 02, 2007
Check that your voltage settings are set correctly. This is located
underneath your turntable platter. If you remove the slipmat, you will
see 2 holes on the metal platter. Rotate the platter till you see the
voltage switch, located @ the 9'o'clock position. Make sure it's set to
your correct settings (N.America = 115V / Euro = 220V). If not, you
will need a flat head screw driver to switch it. Before you switch it,
make sure your unit is off and unplugged. After you swich it, it should
If your still having issues with the speed and the pop-up light, then there is something seriously wrong, and will need to be checked by a technician. Sometimes a resistor or IC will go bad, causing the speed issue, but for the pop-up light - that's usually faulty wiring generally caused by an incorrect replacement.
Did you buy this new or used? Have you had this serviced recently?
- TWEAK AV LAB
The ORIGINAL TURNTABLE Technicians
Posted on Dec 01, 2007
Here's some information for you. Since your unit is a SL1210MK2, it may be harder to determine the age of the unit:
It is possible to tell the year (and the month) when the SL-1200 was manufactured from the serial number on the back or bottom of the turntable. SL-1200 serial numbers are in two different formats, depending on the date of manufacture. It isn't exactly possible to determine the decade in which the SL-1200 in question was manufactured, as the serial number contains only the last digit of the year. If the year digit is 8, the turntable may have been manufactured in 1978, 1988 or 1998. If the year digit is 0, the turntable may have been manufactured in 1980, 1990 or 2000. One rule of thumb is that old-format serial numbers belong to SL-1200s manufactured during the 1970s and 1980s, while new-format serial numbers belong to SL-1200s manufactured during the 1990s and beyond.
Old-format serial number: NHOJF20765 (SL-1200 manufactured 1982)
The first digit shows the year when the SL-1200 was manufactured. These serial numbers contain no indication of the month of manufacture. It should be noted that serial numbers in this format contain no letters following digits.
New-format serial number: GE4FB001154 (SL-1200 manufactured June 2004)
The first digit shows the year when the SL-1200 was manufactured, while the month of manufacture is indicated by the letter following it. Months are coded as letters between A and L inclusive; A indicates January, B indicates February, and so on.
In addition to the above, all the SL-1200MK2s from the 70's and early 80's have a 4 inch diameter plate where the RCA and ground wires enter the chassis in the rubber base of the unit. The later models have a smaller hole through which the wires enter the unit.
TWEAK A/V LAB
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
did you ever open the turntable. It sounds like the on/off switch is bad. Remove the platter and screws with a phillips screw driver and just make sure the connections are in place. make sure you disconnect the power first. let me know what happens afterwards.
Posted on Jun 03, 2008
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