Question about GE JVM2050 Microwave Oven
Display and other controls, turntable, vent all still work. replaced the most common fuse already. may need new magnetron
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fuse keeps blowing.
couple questions -
what else is on the circuit,
and what current does the oven need
there are whirlpool over-range models with
1200watts of microwave,
1500watts of convection power, a
60watt bulb and a
over 15amps -20amp circuit needed
if you inadvertantly replaced a higher current fuse with a 15amp fuse, it will blow every time.
the install guide http://www.whirlpool.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZINSTALL/8206589.pdf reccommends 20amp
not a solution, something to check,
Posted on Oct 14, 2008
All the parts you mention are very inexpensive, but yours does not have a triac.
It could be the cook relay, but it's more likely to be a switch.
Looking at the schematic, it's probably a bad primary interlock (upper door switch) or maybe its mount is bad.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If you have a broken mount, it's usually more economical and safer to just add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
Here are some helpful links:
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or elsewhere, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
Does it make any noises that it didn't before it failed?? It could be a bad secondary interlock switch, cook relay on the PCB, HV circuit problem or bad magnetron. You need an ohm meter to troubleshoot. If you take the cover off, you MUST short across the High Voltage Capacitor terminals to discharge any possible residual charge to prevent shock hazard.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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