New house & new heat pump and duct work sweating like crazy!
I called my A/C contractor and they admitted to bad installation. So they replaced the air handler. Still sweats Any suggestions. It is so bad it has soaked the entire crawl space. There is no plumbing leaks. There is no foundation leaks.
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Re: new house & new heat pump and duct work sweating...
It shouldn't leak or sweat inside the building. Have the installer pay for a reinstallation by a qualified technician. Threaten them with small claims court and negative publicity. Both work quite well.
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There are a few variables that determine the size needed to cool your home - the size of your home, type insulation, are just two. I have a 2600 sq ft home - about 1300 sq ft per floor. I choose to cool the entire second floor (bedrooms and baths) and two of the largest rooms on the first floor (kitchen & living room) via flexible ducts from an air handler installed in my attic. My house was built in 1960, and at the time had electric heat. This means it is fully insulated. I replaced all the windows with energy efficient types, and vinyl sided. I installed soffit, ridge and gable vents to keep my attic well ventilated. I can cool my house in Boston, MA to 70 degrees (when it is 85 degrees inside) with a 4 ton unit in a little over an hour with no problem (one ton of cooling is equal to about 12,000 BTUs). Your condenser should not run non-stop. If it is not cooling then it is not a thermostat problem, but could be a gas charge problem. If you haven't paid the contractor in full yet - that may be the reason why. The contractor should know how much cooling you need for the space you have and installed a properly sized unit. Make sure your air filters on the return are clean and replaced regularly. Call the contractor and explain the problem - he should be able to solve it for you very quickly.
Debi - "2 zones" usually indicate, 2 separate areas of the house(upstairs & downstairs). But, this usually requires two separate heat pumps for each area. That is unless, you have an electronically controlled damper system in your home's duct work. If that's the case, when one area calls for heat or AC, the damper closes to the other area and vice versa. If both areas call for heat or AC, the damper stays in the neutral position.
That is worrysome about putting refrigerant in hap hazzardly... There is a math style process involving pressures and temperatures in two locations that dictate how much ref. goes in. Anything else shows clueless installer. Too much or too little ref. will not work correctly.
Heat pumps do not work below about 33 degrees outside temp. Above that them, aux heat should not be coming on...
You would need to verify that the system you have is rated for the space that you are trying to heat...
Heat pumps heat more slowly than gas or electric, so using set back thermostat is not recommended. True economy comes from maintaining constant temprature. System has to work to hard to raise the temprature, and eats up savings in efficiency by allowing temp set back.
Hi, the ducts are 18" round at the beginning and branch out to smaller sizes for other rooms. 10" for living areas, 8" for bedroom, down to 6" for bathrooms if they have them.If this unit was just installed, I would recommend getting the contractor out and do a balance of the duct work as they should have installed hand dampers to balance out the system, so you will have equal air distribution throughout. I would have went with a 5 ton unit for 2400 SQ.' home, but that's what the contractor recommended. If its only been there a short time, get them back out there as you may have other problems. If its not a new system, it may need to be serviced, outdoor coil washed, you may have a small freon leak, anything could be wrong. This is what I recommend, call out the contractor. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor
A basic model heat pump with an air handler with electric strip heat generally will continue to run with a call for heat regardless of the outdoor air temperature unless there was an outdoor thermostat (an accessory) installed. There is still heat in the outdoor even at temperatures of zero and below. Generally, there is a balance point of approx 30-35degF that allows the heat pump to heat your house to 68degF without the need for the electric heaters. Below that, the heat pump can still extract heat from outside and "pump" it into your house; however, it will need help from the electric heaters. In temperatures below the balance point, the heat pump will run non-stop. As the temperature in the house falls approx 1 - 2 degF below the setpoint, the electric heaters will energize. So it is not uncommon for the system to run non-stop with the temperature falling a few degrees below setpoint. The colder the outside temperature, the more often the strip heaters will cycle on/off. If your system is well-maintained and operating at proper performance, it is still cheaper to run your heat pump than it is to run on straight electric heat. If you live in a climate where below zero temperatures are normal during the winter months, you might want to research heat pump options that offer higher COP's and increased performance in colder temperature than the basic contractor's model. Start with initiating communication with a local contractor. You will need to consider initial cost and the pay-back period based on your local energy costs and your specific demands you want your system to meet.
Check your yellow pages find a contractor who will offer free second opion on compressor failors, better yet try to find one that is a rheem dealer. If the compressor does turn out to be bad he can turn in the model and serial # to find the installation date. In most cases warranty info does start day of contractor purchase unless owner fills out and mails in warranty card. But neverless warranty ticks away while house sits unsold. Compressor does not have to be a direct replacement most any brand of compressor ( of proper capacity) will work in there but may have to do a little retrofit. Should be no problem. As for price replacing a compressor is very expensive. About the most expensive thing to replace. It is definetly easier and quicker to just change out the unit. Get a few quotes keep in mind after replacing comressor some other part of unit could go bad costing more money.
I'm not a fan of zoning but it sounds like they don't have the ducting done correctly. There has to be bleeder trunks installed in the unit because your are taking a unit that is designed to cool or heat a particular square footage and make it cool or heat a smaller area. This makes the unit way too big for the job you are asking it to do. If the ducting is improper, you are going to have issues like this. A lot of contractors will not admit that the ducting isn't correct due to the cost to correct it. I personally think (my opinion) that 4 zones are a little excessive. Sounds like you really need 2 units. It's hard to tell from my point of view since I'm not there to actually see what is going on. I would have a couple of different contractors come out and give you an estimate to fix the issue and then tell the installer to come and fix what they say is wrong.