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It doesn't agitateIf your washer doesn't agitate, check these:Lid switchMotor couplerBeltsClutchDrive motorDrive pulleysTransmissionAgitatorLid switchIf the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor couplerMany washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.BeltsMany washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)ClutchIf your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.Drive motorMany washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleysThe motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
When you open the machine door, you will see a manufacturer's badge. Record the model number and call around to order the door seal from your local parts vendors. Have the replacement seal ready when you are changing the seal. If you remove the seal and then go to source it, then you might not remember how it was put on initially.
To replace door seal, First turn off machine and unplug from its power source.
Next remove top lid. Two screws in the back of the top lid and you can slide the lid back and up to remove. See if you have a clear view of the door seal from above the machine and see how it is joined to the drum mouth. There would be a metal ring holding it in place. Locate the screw which tightens it and unscrew it to loosen the ring.
Next the wire ring which you have already seen on the front of the seal needs to be removed. These are normally spring loaded. Feel around the ring until you get to the spring tensioner. With a flat screw driver, stretch the spring to pull the ring out from around the seal.
Now observe how the door seal is clipped around the front panel of the machine. The seal has a groove which fits snug agains the rim of the front panel. You can now remove the seal by pulling around the edge.
Now go back to the top of the machine and do a similar thing to remove the seal from around the drum. Make sure you observe how it had fitted on originally, and also observe if there are any differences between the top and bottom of the seal where it sits on the door. There normally is a difference.
When replacing the seal in the reverse manner, make sure you fit the seal correctly around the lips of the drum and the front panel. make sure you also correctly tighten and refit the rings to hold the seal in place.
Once you have finished run a couple of quick cycles without cloths, to make sure there are no leaks and that the seal is fitted properly.
hi thanks for the question. the lid switch is not connecting, when you close the lid. replace the lid switch.please rate my answer. thanks if you need help replacing the lid switch come and chat i will help you with it thanks
Hi, I'm not familiar with your particular model, but there is most likely a very similar type of clamp holding the back end of the seal to the static part of the drum. It is most unlikely that you will need to take off the front cover as on most machines only the back and top are removable. You might need to unfold the rubber to get to see the wire which is holding it on. If it is the type of clamp with a screw-tightening device, it might be rusted up and a new one might be called for.
If the old seal is damaged there is nothing to be lost by cutting away some of it with scissors so you can see better what you are doing.
When you get to the stage of putting the new seal on, try lubricating it with a bit of washing up liquid or soap to allow it to slip properly onto the casing and rum, and try to avoid tightening up with a twist in it - the soap should help. Remember to put the new one on in the reverse order to the way you got the old one off.
Hope this helps you a bit more. D
The seal shouldn't be doing what you've described. It would probably be a good idea to replace it at this point if its causing you to have to run the washer through another spin cycle. I would recommend replacing the seal yourself to avoid the labor costs. It's a simple repair job and you can find the part you need at repairclinic.com as item #722572. Just type in your model number in the search menu. It costs about $15. I hope this helps you.
Open the top of the unit by placing a putty knife beween the top and the front panel about two inches in. There is a spring lock that you need to push in, then lift the top. Once you lift the top, you will see the lid switch. Remove and replace. Let me know if you need further help. Jim