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Miele novotronic w970 has no power, checked fuse in plug and this is ok

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Miele Washing Machine - Novotronic W827

Give the door a firm push shut (even if it appears shut already). There is a safety mechanism that stops the door opening when drum is turning and it gets its knickers in a twist sometimes. Happened to me twice in the last 5 years and can never remember how to fix so end up ringing Miele support who are always helpful. Next time I'll look here first!

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

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Gallois
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, i have a miele novotronic w 916 and it's not spinning

I mean this is not a filter error and i think the power main board inside on front bottom EL110 has an defekt and must change.
Or you can post the problem on my board www.avpc.de with photos for solving together and find another cheap used power board for it ...

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

reverendrave
  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: replace door seal miele novotonic w 502

Hello mc2739,
It's been awhile for me since I have done this so I searched on the internet and found the following. The instructions are pretty detailed. You may want to contact Miele if any problems

1. Open the machine door.
2. Turn the main power off and unplug the machine from the wall.
3. Completely remove the powder dispenser drawer (it will come out so far (and stop), then there is a small button at the rear of the dispenser which you need to depress to remove it fully, you'll see this button once you've withdrawn the drawer to its stop position.
5. Undo and remove the 3 x hexagonal head bolts surrounding the door seal (they are at approximately the 2, 6 and 10 o'clock positions). Note these bolts actually secure the front panel to the machine chassis, they do not retain the door seal. Don't worry the front will not drop off.
6. Now look at the aperture of the powder dispenser drawer (you have of course removed the actual drawer earlier). Locate the lower left hand corner of the aperture, and you'll see a recessed philips head screw in a hole. Undo and remove that screw.
7. Now, you'll need to get on your hands and knees. You DO NOT need to tilt, or lift up the washing machine to do the next bit. Locate the underside of the front panel right at the bottom. You'll notice that it sticks out about half an inch or so and is proud of what I would call the kick plate which extends right down to the floor. You need to look on the underside of the front panel, about an inch or so in from the left hand edge. There you will see a spring loaded clip which when closed is located within a slot on the underside of the front panel. Using a flat bladed screwdriver, you need to carefully lever the spring clip open whilst gently pulling the whole front panel (from the left side) ajar. It will just suddenly pop out once you've done it.
8. Open the pump access door lower left hand side of the front panel) and unclip the drain tube from its plastic retaining clip.
9. Now carefully swing open the whole front panel, it opens like a door (hinged on the right hand side). It might be a little stiff as there are a whost of leads attached to it, but it is designed to open fully (with the leads attached) to about 90 degrees.
10. Next, unseat the rubber door seal from around the door opening area (on the chassis, not the front panel, obvioulsy), so that the seal the flops away from the chassis and lies just inside the machine.
11. You will notice that there is a thin steel band holding the door seal in place around the drum. On the right hand side (at about the 3 o'clock position), you'ss see a tensioning screw for the band. With a flat bladed screwdriver undo this completely and remove the screw (it is accessible from above with a long screwdriver). Be aware that there is 1 x washer and 1 x 'nut' type fitting that will fall out when you remove the screw. Locate these and retain them for later.
12. Now extend the steel band to its maximum opening (by moving the 2 x lugs apart where the now removed screw was).
13. You can now remove the steel band. Then pull it out through the hole/door aperture in the chassis.
14. Locate the small rubber tag at about the 12 o'clock position where the seal is attached to the drum and tug it. The seal will then come away from the drum. Remove the old seal completely.
15. Using your new seal, place this correctly around the drum (there is a lip on the seal and this has to go over the lip on the drum. Remember, the seal goes on the OUTSIDE of the drum. Ensure the 'tag' is at the 12 o'clock position.
16. Reassembly is then the reverse of removal.
17. Make sure that you do up the retaining steel band sufficiently and that you correctly locate the sela on the chassis front panel (there is a groove in the seal which will locate the seal in the aperture).
18. Finally, once you're done, put the machine through a few rinse cycles (where the water level is high) and look for leaks. If you have a leak, it is likely that your door seal has a rip/tear, or that it has not been correctly located around the drum - in which case you'll need to investigate.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

Mark Harmer
  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Inlet blockage red light flashing

Try turning the machine on its side, undo the bottom and check that the polystyrene float (attached to a switch) is not somehow jammed. This float cuts off the water if the machine leaks internally, and produces the symptoms you describe. It's a really good machine so don't throw it away!!

If that still doesn't help then it might also be the motor brushes, which produce similar symptoms - if your machine starts to fill but then flashes and just drains again, it's almost certainly the brushes. This might be the case after you check the float problem.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

  • 177 Answers

SOURCE: How do I use the washing machine, a miele novotronic w 969

Hi,
The I is the pre-wash and the III is the main wash where you put the soap powder. the # star looking symbol is the fabric conditioner.

If you don't have a manual you can download this from the miele website.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

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I have a miele novotronic w 1930 front load washer that for all practical purposes appears dead. No lights, nothing . I checked the breaker and the fuse box that miele's use and dryer still functions...


Also look for a fuse on the board. Sometimes they put a simple fuse on the board that goes out and the repairman replaces it with a whopping bill to boot.

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Had exactly the same problem. First, I tried with changing the plug - worked ok, but wasn't really the right solution. Then, cleaned with a high pressure washer (like the one you wash your car with). The result: no more problems!
Good luck.

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Where is fuse located for Miele G641 Plus dishwasher and how to replace it?


hi,

there is no fuse on this model. first thing to do is check the incoming power at the socket. you can also find the electronics which control the unit all behind the door handle. Check there is power reaching the control electronics.
underneath the unit there are the components like the drain pump, circulation pump,hoses, pressure switch, relay for the heating, water sump etc which are all driven by the control electronics behind the door handle. you will find about 6-8 screws holding this front facia panel on. Remove this and firstly check all the connections are good. you may find a plug has just worked loose.
Hope this helps.

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it could be a shorted heating element a shorted to the case, motor start capacitor, or a defective motor ,f i would inspect the first two items closely

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Inlet blockage red light flashing


Try turning the machine on its side, undo the bottom and check that the polystyrene float (attached to a switch) is not somehow jammed. This float cuts off the water if the machine leaks internally, and produces the symptoms you describe. It's a really good machine so don't throw it away!!

If that still doesn't help then it might also be the motor brushes, which produce similar symptoms - if your machine starts to fill but then flashes and just drains again, it's almost certainly the brushes. This might be the case after you check the float problem.

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hello i'd check to see if theres a glass fuse in side the dishwasher it will be on the power board good luck

shaun

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there will be a glass fuse on the power board of the washer it might have cover over it good luck

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Mielepremier novo. No power though plug fuse OK. Door won't open.


I had the same problem with a Miele W828. I removed and reinserted what I think was a condensor where the power cord is attached, after which it was OK. I assumed that it was loose but might have just been lucky in bumping something else back in place when I tipped it onto its side.

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Miele Dryer heater bank


i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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