Question about Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD-602 Built-in Dishwasher

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TOP DRAWER WAS NOT DRAINING..NOW THE F1 ON BOTH DRAWERS IS ON

I REMOVED THE WATER FROM TOP DRAW (U2 CODE HAD BEEN ON) AND RAN IT THROUGH A RINSE CYCLE WHICH WENT PERFECTLY. AND NOW AN HOUR LATER, THE THING IS FREAKING OUT...BOTH DRAWERS KEEP TURNING ON AND SHOWING F1 CODE. I TURNED THEM OFF AND THEY COME BACK ON. I TURNED OFF THE BREAKER SWITCH FOR 5 MINUTES, TURNED IT BACK ON AND BOTH DRAWERS COME TO LIFE AND F1 AGAIN...YIKES! WHAT SHOULD I DO?

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F1 code indicates a leak,you will find the water under bottom drawer.Lid probably not sealing well.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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My dish draw **** up with a service code f 1 , what does this mean


This can mean several things. If you have double drawer dishwasher then you need to confirm if you get the F1 message in both drawers or just one.
If both drawers then it is caused by water leakage and flood switch activiates. If only in one drawer then the power supply to the other drawer is blown.
For single unit drawer it means flood switch triggered.

Dec 26, 2012 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DS-603 Built-in...

2 Answers

I have a Fisher and Paykel DD603 which was working well however i ran through some service tests. Whilst doing so i managed to flood the unit. F1 initial came on the lower drawer, then both drawers. Now...


The power filter board at the base of the dishwasher has gone faulty or you may have dislocated a connector on the filter board at the base of the dishwasher. This is the same board that has the flood switch on it.

The connector provides power to the drawers. If this is not the case then the filter board itself will have gone faulty with the water falling on it.

This part can be got from this site. The worst scenario is that you ran the heater on the lower drawer with no water causing the heater fuse to blow. This cuts the power to the drawer controller. This is very expensive to replace as the fuse is integral to the heater. Unfortunately you will not will be able to get rid of the F1 on top drawer until the power to bottom controller is restored.

The reason water spilt out is because you did not have the lid seal on when you ran the wash pump.
Make sure the mains plug is taken out when working on the dishwasher.

Mar 13, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD603H SS...

3 Answers

FP DD603 fills water, stops error 01 crossed faucet symbol


Hi,

I had the opportunity to work on a Fisher & Paykel DD632 dishdrawer a couple days ago. By the way, I am a big fan of Fisher & Paykel equipment--if you ever have the opportunity to work on one, you'll see why. The engineering is elegant in its simplicity. Well-engineered equipment is actually much easier to work on because they have designed serviceability into the product.

Anyway, the problem with this particular dishdrawer was that the top drawer (with an 11 minute wash) was giving an F1 error code after the initial rinse, about five minutes into the cycle. The F1 code indicates an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose.

So, I put the dishdrawer into diagnostic mode and tested the fill and pump out functions--everything was peachy. I ran the top drawer in a normal wash cycle and, sho 'nuff, the drawer faulted out on F1 after the first rinse. Well, Houston, we had a problem and it was time for the Samurai to break open a can of whup-*** on this dishdrawer. First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer.

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.

With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gook us. None found--my quest continued.

The next step to remove the bottom drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the bottom cover panel removed:

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.

With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms.

After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.

I had a flash-back to my Navy days and heard Petty Officer (AT1) Crowe's voice in my head, "Here, take this ruby red eraser and clean off them contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. Good to go, Sailor." You gotta understand, Petty Officer Crowe was my technical guru in the Navy--he taught me many of the practical and theoretical troubleshooting skills that I still use today.

So I cleaned the contacts as instructed by Petty Officer Crowe's mental image in my brain and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.

OR ,if this is not the case next thing to look for is
If you have problems with a plugged drain hose
Dishwasher Drainology

Your dishwasher sounds like it's working up a storm, draining all that yucky dirty water out, but you open the door and all that dirty water is still there. Houston, we have a problem. OK, grasshopper, go grab you a cold one and hang on for a magical mystery tour into what causes dishwasher draining problems, also called the ancient and mystical art of dishwasher drainology. Let's take 'em one at a time:

* Using Too Much Detergent
Some fancy dishwashers with electronic controls have sensors that detect when the pump is not pumping water. Using too much detergent creates a great head of foam in the dishwasher basin, like pouring a beer too fast into a glass. So if you use too much soap in one of these so-equipped dishwashers, the sensors think the dishwasher is empty and cuts off the pump (For you gadget geeks out there, it senses the pump work by using a sensing resistor in series with the motor main winding.) While we're talking about detergents, that store bought stuff you're using is screwing up your dishwasher
* You Forgot to Remove the Disposal Drain Port Knockout Plug

# This usually only applies to the situation where you just installed a disposal and connected the dishwasher drain hose to the drain port on the disposal. Believe it or not, this happened to me on my first disposal installation job, too...no, not really. But I have seen many a grasshopper stumped by this.
# Drain Solenoid Not Opening
Some brands, notably GE/Hotpoint and Magic Chef, use a drain solenoid to open and close the dishwasher drain port. If this solenoid isn't opening during the drain cycle, could be a bad timer or solenoid.
# Worn Pump Impeller
Other dishwashers, like Whirlpool and KitchenAid, don't use a drain solenoid but instead reverse the motor to drain the basin. One possible reason for poor draining in this type of dishwasher is a worn pump impeller. You usually figure this by elimination...no, not that kind of elimination you dawg! I mean, if all the other suspects listed here check out OK, then you've got a worn pump impeller. The rebuilding kit for this repair is very inexpensive and is a great beer drinking project.
# Kinked or Plugged Drain Hose
Drain hoses can become kinked or crimped from poor installation, stuff being moved around, lots of reasons. It happens.This page on drain hose configuration shows you several approved drain hose layouts. Drain hoses can also get plugged from gookus. Plugs usually occur at the one of the drain ports--either on the dishwasher or at the other end. The best test is to take the drain hose off at the dishwasher and pucker up and blow like a fish. Yep, it can be pretty nasty putting your mouth on that stuff but, hey, that's why we appliance techs make the big money.
# Air Gap Plugged with Gookus

Plumbing codes may require an air gap in your dishwasher drain hose and many houses have 'em. These air gaps do a great job of keeping sewer water from backing up into your dishwasher but they can become a source of problems, too. Sometimes, they'll get plugged with gookus and they'll need to be cleaned out. If it's real bad or corroded, do yourself a favor and install a new air gap kit.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Jul 10, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

2 Answers

Son put normal dish washing liquid in top draw!


ok, the machine flooded and the water has leaked into the bottom of the machine, 1st turn off the machine at the power point. 2nd- open the top drawer and remove the suds from it. 3rd. open the bottom drawer and look under it to the bottom of the cabinet . that is where the water will be. use a torch if you have to. now you need to dry the water up. you can do this with a hair dryer or a fan heater. the reason the machine is flashing F1 is because the water has triggered the flood switch and you need to dry up that water. please reply 4 more help.once dryed F1 will disappear. please make sure all the suds are removed from the top drawer. good luck

May 14, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

2 Answers

Hi Both drawers show error F1 flashing beeping with rinse light on and both pumps run after power is applied to machine


F1 error indicates flood switch in base has activated, meaning machine has leaked. This causes machine to drain continously, and can only be stopped by switching off power. Not easy to fix if you don't have experience- bottom drawer has to be removed to access flood switch, then machine needs to be test run and checked for leaks. Best to call the professionals!!

Oct 03, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD603H SS...

1 Answer

Doulbe Draw model receiving an F1 error message.


F1 indicates flood switch has been activated. I wouldn't advise you attempt repair on these drawers- they really require an expert to disassemble (I worked for F+P for 10 years!!). Depending on which model you have (DD603 or DD601v2), repair varies. 603 has a small circuit board that acts as flood switch- located in base beneath drawer- requires drawer to be removed for access. 601v2 model has polystyrene float that acts as flood switch-leaks usually caused by split lid seal(tricky to access- drawer has to be removed) In either case, a leak has occurred and activated flood switch. These drawers are very sensitive to detergents (don't use tablets!!), and the way they are loaded.
Would suggest you get service technician to remedy F1 fault

Aug 07, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

F1 alarm keep coming back on both drawer


I just had the same issue as a result of "mother-in-law" using regular liquid dish detergent in both drawers. After numberous attempts of cleaning out each drawer it still was beeping and attempting to drain both drawers even when the water was drained it continue to run and beep.
My presumption of what occurred is the wrong soup caused so much suds that it triggered the flood sensor. I removed both drawers and discovered water in the base area and moisture throughout. After disconnecting the power to the unit I removed the white plastic cover and exposed the small circuit board. I disconnected the power leads and the screw holding the board in place and lifted it up a bit. I then used a hair dryer for about 15 minutes until the entire area was dry and put it back together and has worked just fine. You will see a service diagram taped to the back pannel when you remove the bottom drawer. It has additional information on various error codes and the instructions on how to trouble shoot problems. I would also remind you to run water in the units if the cause was due to the wrong type of soap as the residue will continue to recreate the same problem.

I hope this helps.

Mark

Oct 08, 2008 | Fisher DD603FCSS Dishwasher

28 Answers

F1 code on Fisher and Paykel dishdrawer


Just had the same problem, removed the excess water from the drawers, turned off the power, removed the bottom drawer by pushing in the lugs at the bottom of the drawer where it butts up to the drawer front and pulling out the drawer. Then had to mop up with 4 t-towels and half a roll of kitchen roll the water in the bottom of the machine housing. The water gets into the electronics at the rear of the housing and obviously warns you of this by the F1 code?. I removed the white cover over the electronics with a screwdriver by pushing it into a slot then sliding the cover across to the right, it is indicated on the cover how to remove it. I also then removed the screw on top of the PCB (printed circuit board) and lifted up the grey plastic base and wiped under that and the under side of the PCB. The PCB unclips on the left hand end of it and lifts out, try not to pull the cables out though. I then used a hair dryer as suggested by someone else on here to dry out any excess that you could not wipe dry, my daughters Hello Kitty hair dryer didn't last long though, she's not impressed! So try not to stick the dryer right in the housing to avoid overheating it. About 5 minutes did the trick for me, then re-assembled everything, turned it on and hey presto! It worked!!!! Its not that hard, good luck!!!

Jun 06, 2007 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

U2 fault code?


The last two faults are logged into EE memory.
The other U (user) faults have been removed. The old U2 fault, which was the tub forced open during a cycle, has
been removed completely. Instead if the tub is forced open the product simply pauses as if someone had pressed
the start/pause button. The old U3 fault, which indicated a failure to drain i.e. water left in the tub, will not show up a
fault and the DishDrawer will continue through the cycle

Aug 13, 2006 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

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