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Problem for Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side Refrigerator
I have a model 106.53552 side by side, seven years
I have a model 106.53552 side by side, seven years old. The freezer seems fine, but the refrigerator is warm. A repairman came by and looked; he thinks the compressor has gone bad. He says it is 2/3 frosted up and the refrigerator is getting all its cool air from the freezer. Is there a way to repair instead of purchasing a new unit?
Comments:
Jun 17, 2009
- Thanks for the information, Rylee.I am getting air from the upper vent in the fridge. It is cool but not very strong.
I am having trouble finding the defrosting timer. The only dial I see on the outside of the unit is a big white one on the bottom below the freezer; it can be turned ninety degrees, with no apparent result.
Can I test it simply by unplugging the unit and letting it defrost that way?
Thanks,
Barry
Jun 19, 2009
- Hi again Rylee,I looked in the fridge and was not able to find the defrost timer you were kind enough to send the photo of. I defrosted the unit by unplugging for several hours. The fridge is only cool - not cold - just as it was prior to defrosting, and the air from the upper vent is not any stronger than it was. I am grateful for your advice but fear it is not a long-term solution.
Barry
Jun 26, 2009
- It hasn't gotten any worse, but hasn't improved either. We have decided to replace the unit sooner rather than later. I appreciate the help, though.Solution #1
posted on Jun 17, 2009
Hi!
First of all please check that there is air flow in the upper vent baffle in the fridge section which is located behind the crispers. If there is no air flow at the vent baffle in the upper fridge section then this is the cause of the issue you’re facing with. The evaporator fan pushes the air through some ducting into the refrigerator from the freezer and if there is any material obstructing it then clear it.
If still the problem persists then you need to check the following things:
The defrost circuit contains defrost timer, defrost heater(s) and defrost thermostat. Defrost timer failure will not put power to the circuit. Defrost heater failure will fail to defrost when the timer applies power. Defrost thermostat must be closed for defrost to take place. First locate the timer, rotate the clutch head screw clockwise slowly until one distinct click is heard. Now the timer will be set in defrost mode and defrost should complete within 30 minutes or less after which the refrigeration should start cooling again. If defrost takes place and it does not go back to cooling automatically turn the screw once again until you hear the second click, unit will start. Replace the timer. If defrost does not take place in the time frame above and the unit restarts in cooling test the defrost heaters. From the heater(s) follow the wires from each end to where they plug into the circuit. Unplug them and test through the heaters with an ohm meter. You should get a reading if they are good, if no reading then you need to replace the heater(s). If you get a reading on the heater(s) then you need to replace the defrost thermostat.
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
Yes you can defrost the refrigerator by simply unplugging it for 4-5hours and the frost deposit will melt off. The defrost timer is located at the bottom of your refrigerator, near the compresser. It will look like this--
Defrost Timer
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
First of all you need to once again defrost your fridge completely. The safest way is to unplug, open both doors, blow fan for minimum of 24 hours, since you may not have defrosted completely previously, you might have ice in addition to frost, ice takes a long time to melt.
Secondly, after you have defrosted for 24 hours or more, plug unit in, set both controls to the middle setting. After unit has run for 24 hours, temps should be 0º in freezer, and 37º in fridge, plus or minus a few º. If you are still way too cold in the freezer as you put it after 24 hours, you also have a bad cold control.
If the problem still persists, please check if the compressor motor is running. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more problems with one or more of several different components. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The compressor, the thermostat, the overload, relay, or capacitor, the defrost timer or the condenser fan motor.
Please check if there is fuzzy ice on the back, inside wall of the freezer, then it is a sign of a failed defrost system. A failed defrost system is just one of the conditions that can create this issue. With the box unplugged and still cold, check the defrost heater at the bottom of the evaporator coil with your ohm meter set on X100 to see if you get a reading and check the defrost termination thermostat the same way, with the ohm meter, this part is the gray round disk at the top of the evaporator, but it has to be cold for this test, if it warms up, it will show open. So be sure to check this part while it is still covered with ice. Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. Also please check three parts to the defrost system, the heater, termination limit control, and the defrost control.
After following the above procedure, if the issue is still not resolved then you need to check the following things:
Is the condenser fan running and the condenser clean? The condenser is the dirty, icky black coil-thing at the very bottom of your fridge, right above the floor (unless your refrigerator cools its condenser by natural-convection, in which case, the condenser would be mounted on the back of the refrigerator cabinet and you wouldn’t have a condenser fan). If the condenser fan is not running or the condenser is matted up then it is the cause of warm refrigerator.
Is the evaporator fan running? That’s the one in the freezer; you won’t see it but you can hear it. On some models, it stops running when the freezer door is opened, but you’ll hear it when the door is closed.
Does the evaporator itself look abnormal: either too much frost build-up or too little? Too much frost indicates a defrost system failure == easy, inexpensive fix that’s definitely worth doing. Too little frost means either a Freon leak or a worn compressor.
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
First of all please check that there is air flow in the upper vent baffle in the fridge section which is located behind the crispers. If there is no air flow at the vent baffle in the upper fridge section then this is the cause of the issue you’re facing with. The evaporator fan pushes the air through some ducting into the refrigerator from the freezer and if there is any material obstructing it then clear it.
If still the problem persists then you need to check the following things:
The defrost circuit contains defrost timer, defrost heater(s) and defrost thermostat. Defrost timer failure will not put power to the circuit. Defrost heater failure will fail to defrost when the timer applies power. Defrost thermostat must be closed for defrost to take place. First locate the timer, rotate the clutch head screw clockwise slowly until one distinct click is heard. Now the timer will be set in defrost mode and defrost should complete within 30 minutes or less after which the refrigeration should start cooling again. If defrost takes place and it does not go back to cooling automatically turn the screw once again until you hear the second click, unit will start. Replace the timer. If defrost does not take place in the time frame above and the unit restarts in cooling test the defrost heaters. From the heater(s) follow the wires from each end to where they plug into the circuit. Unplug them and test through the heaters with an ohm meter. You should get a reading if they are good, if no reading then you need to replace the heater(s). If you get a reading on the heater(s) then you need to replace the defrost thermostat.
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
Comments:
Jun 17, 2009
- HiYes you can defrost the refrigerator by simply unplugging it for 4-5hours and the frost deposit will melt off. The defrost timer is located at the bottom of your refrigerator, near the compresser. It will look like this--
Defrost Timer
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
Jun 19, 2009
- Hi!First of all you need to once again defrost your fridge completely. The safest way is to unplug, open both doors, blow fan for minimum of 24 hours, since you may not have defrosted completely previously, you might have ice in addition to frost, ice takes a long time to melt.
Secondly, after you have defrosted for 24 hours or more, plug unit in, set both controls to the middle setting. After unit has run for 24 hours, temps should be 0º in freezer, and 37º in fridge, plus or minus a few º. If you are still way too cold in the freezer as you put it after 24 hours, you also have a bad cold control.
If the problem still persists, please check if the compressor motor is running. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more problems with one or more of several different components. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The compressor, the thermostat, the overload, relay, or capacitor, the defrost timer or the condenser fan motor.
Please check if there is fuzzy ice on the back, inside wall of the freezer, then it is a sign of a failed defrost system. A failed defrost system is just one of the conditions that can create this issue. With the box unplugged and still cold, check the defrost heater at the bottom of the evaporator coil with your ohm meter set on X100 to see if you get a reading and check the defrost termination thermostat the same way, with the ohm meter, this part is the gray round disk at the top of the evaporator, but it has to be cold for this test, if it warms up, it will show open. So be sure to check this part while it is still covered with ice. Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. Also please check three parts to the defrost system, the heater, termination limit control, and the defrost control.
After following the above procedure, if the issue is still not resolved then you need to check the following things:
Is the condenser fan running and the condenser clean? The condenser is the dirty, icky black coil-thing at the very bottom of your fridge, right above the floor (unless your refrigerator cools its condenser by natural-convection, in which case, the condenser would be mounted on the back of the refrigerator cabinet and you wouldn’t have a condenser fan). If the condenser fan is not running or the condenser is matted up then it is the cause of warm refrigerator.
Is the evaporator fan running? That’s the one in the freezer; you won’t see it but you can hear it. On some models, it stops running when the freezer door is opened, but you’ll hear it when the door is closed.
Does the evaporator itself look abnormal: either too much frost build-up or too little? Too much frost indicates a defrost system failure == easy, inexpensive fix that’s definitely worth doing. Too little frost means either a Freon leak or a worn compressor.
Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
Solution #2
posted on Jun 19, 2009
Hi, Your freezer side seems to be ok?
When the repairman was there, did he remove the rear inner panel of the freezer section?
If he did and seen that the evaporator was only covered partially, then he is right in saying the compressor is going bad. What is happening is, the compressor is not pumping the coolent through the system as strong as it should. It will only get worse I am afraid.
Does this answer your question?
I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Vic
Vic
Vic
Thanks
Vic
When the repairman was there, did he remove the rear inner panel of the freezer section?
If he did and seen that the evaporator was only covered partially, then he is right in saying the compressor is going bad. What is happening is, the compressor is not pumping the coolent through the system as strong as it should. It will only get worse I am afraid.
Does this answer your question?
Comments:
Jun 19, 2009
- Just want to add, if you remove the rear panel after the refrigerator has been running for 24 hours, the evaporator coil should be completely covered with a thin film of frost. If it is not covered with frost then you will know it is the compressor.I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Vic
Jun 20, 2009
- Hi, Just checking to see if I helped you at allVic
Jun 25, 2009
- Hi, I am curious if you still need assistance with this issue?Vic
Jun 26, 2009
- OK, It sounds like you are making a good choice. The compressor is very costly to replace.Jul 05, 2009
- Hi, Was just wondering if the information I gave you was helpfull at all. I was just looking through my premium chats and seen where this one has not been closed. Please feel free to rate my responses to you so that others as well as myself will know how I am doing.Thanks
Vic
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