I havn't rode it for over a year, I charged the battery, drained out the old gas. 1st tried to start & it wouldn't turn-over at all. Put battery charger on "Boost/jump" mode & engine turned over a few times. I unhooked the Batt. re-charged it & let it sit for 15 mins. When I started to hook the Batt back up (blk lead 1st) when I put the red lead on the Batt post it sparked & the engine turned over! Is this a starter relay/solenoid problem?
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What a great project.
- I'd start with a really thorough clean up.
- You've mentioned the gas. Definitely, drain the tank, hoses, carbs, and clean the carbs. If there's a filter I'd change it.
I wouldn't even try to run it without cleaning the carbs first.
- Replace the battery, oil, and spark plug.
- Engine coolant?
- Tires? I wouldn't worry until I had it running but definitely replace.
Patience & time. You'll have an excellent bike.
A lot of automotive parts stores will check a battery for free... find your lowest amp rated (less than 10) and charge it over night.
Have battery load tested.
if good, place ammeter between battery and the rest of the tractor to check and see if load from running engine is draining or alternator isn't working.
or fast way to check an alternator on almost anything, start with battery, the pull off the negative (black) cable, if engine dies nothing is powering the engine but the battery (on an alternator driven electrical system, the battery is only used to start the engine)
how old is your battery? if it is 2 to 3 years old it may need to be
replaced . charge it up and see if it keeps charge, crank your bike
run it for a short time 4 or 5 min. shut it , and try to start it. if it
drags when cranking go buy new battery.
The indicator icon or light you are seeing is most likely the "check engine" light, and if viewed closely looks like a tiny engine. A review of the owners manual might be helpful. Fuel that is two years old is not going to combust/burn properly. I'd start with draining the fuel tank and putting fresh gas in the bike. If you installed the new battery yourself double check the terminal connections and look where the negative cable ends on the vehicles frame. Many electrical malfuctions can be traced to bad "grounds"or loose connections.(the bouncing on the seat). Take some time to look carefully around. The vehicle's ECM (Engine Control Module) is capable of storing one or more "trouble codes".
Do you have an alarm & Immobiliser fitted on your bike as these drain the battery on your bike very quickly?
If so i would recommend removing your battery and fully charging it with a decent amp-age charger. If you have your garage attached to your house then i would definitely recommend purchasing a trickle charger and when not using your bike keep this plugged into the mains and you should not have this problem again. all motorbike shops sell these chargers If after this the battery goes flat again i would suggest purchasing a new battery.
This is a common fault as most motorbikes sit in the garage through the winter months and if not kept on charge will deteriorate. Hope this helps.
SOUND LIKE VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS NOT WORKING CHARG BATTERY AND GET VOLT METER AND START IT UP AND HOLD RPM AT 1500 AND YOU SHOUL BE SHOWING 13.95 OR MOOR HOPE THIS HELP IF NOT AT LEAST 13.5 VOLTS THEN YOU MAY HAVE BAD VOLTAGE REGULATOR
First off, how old is the battery? It is possible it might be stratified and its just no longer holding a charge well. I've had batteries that are 2 or 3 years old and then they just go dead if I don't start them up every day or so. (Some batteries are just made better than others) If the battery is brand new, then check for some possible wiring shorts. Try looking at the engine running in the dark and try moving around the wiring harness to see if by chance you see any sparks or arcs of electricity. Other than that, you might have to have a qualified auto electric mechanic to check it out for any abnormal power drains.
When replacing battery in yamaha GP1200 when attach negative cable the unit seems as wants to turn over the engine while the unit is off and no key in place.. also notice in seconds that the battery terminal on negative side started smoking..actually melt the new battery terminal on negative side..yes, postive was connected to positive. Any ideas what why this would take place??
I am having a similar problem on a 2003 Volkswagon Passat 1.8L 4 cylinder manual engine. My batter (after 10 years of service) died about a month ago. When the engine is cold and I start it up the engine (if I do not carefully add gas to rev the engine) will idle at around 200 to 400 RPM and then stall. The problem does not occur after the engine has been going for more than about 90 seconds. No check engine light is on. Ideas anyone?