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Re: my exhaust is a lot hotter on the right side then the...
You do need a lot of water to prevent your problem. I think we are talking about an inboard or I/O unit. Make sure you replaced the flapper valves in the exhaust too. There should be a water pump on the motor as well as the impeller in the outdrive. Check to see if you have a sealed cooling system with a radiator or an open system using only outside water. There may be a thermostat in the motor in either case. Do not run a boat above idle when you use muffs and a hose. Everyones water pressure is different at the tap.
The closed system uses an intercooler and a radiator. You can have the same radiator problems as a car and you should always use antifreeze in the radiator to prevent rust. If the right side is hotter then it is probably more blocked.
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Which one ?
Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement - Bank 2 (Left Side) Exhaust Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement - Bank 2 (Left Side) Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement - Bank 1 (Right Side) Exhaust Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement - Bank 1 (Right Side) Intake
I suspect that the insulator that seals the selector lever to the floor and the lever inside the car is allowing engine heat ,road heat to enter the cab past the gear lever. IT is common problem if the insulator rots or is not replaced after gear box removal say for clutch replacement.
It is not unusual for the left side exhaust to be hotter. It hooks to the rear cylinder that has the least air flow and consistently runs hotter. If the back pressure draws a dollar bill in when placed at the end of the pipe, this is typically caused by improperly closing valves.
Combustion needs air mix in the correct proportion to burn efficiently-also gas supply may be stronger on the outlet side of burner causing an imbalance-chech for obstruction in either area-cheers Denny
Those had a small channel from the water tube to the exhaust side plate which loved to fill with small rocks or old impeller parts. The exhaust plate had 2 gaskets on a baffel which could also leak exhaust into the water jacket.
Try putting a small hose on that tube and see if it will circulate water freely thru the motor and out the *** hole. One warning is.- if the side plate has a hole in it it can put water right in the piston. If that proves to be the case- repair it right away and oil down the motor to prevent corrosion.
If it seems to flow good thru the engine and out the exhaust and *** hole you may have a bad water pump housing seal, or the seal to the water tube might be cut. Often a problem if you use a sealing compound during assembly instead of grease.
That pump should have a nylon guide tube in the water pump housing to help put it all together the first time.
Hope it turns out easy, the best way to clear that channel is pulling the power head.
Check the pipe right where they come out of the heads. It depends on what type of exhaust system you have on your Road King. If the stock exhaust is on the bike, the rear cylinder exhaust is directed to both mufflers. With the exhaust from the front and part of the exhaust from the rear cylinders going to the right side muffler, it gets more exhaust than the left side and runs hotter. Like I said, check the temp of the exhaust pipes at the cylinder heads. If one of them is cold, that cylinder is not firing. As long as both of the pipes are hot there, you're fine. Just ride the bike and have fun.
99-01 Blazers with the 4.3L motor and 00-03 2.2L
motors have the Secondary Air Injection system and I've listed the
codes, part #s, circuit description, and have to fix below.
DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection
Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an
internal test to confirm.
Circuit Description: This is located under the radiator (pump,
electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the
exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front
skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower
tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump
relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine
vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized.
The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to
the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and
freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open
internally and then burn threw the rubber hose, and even melt the lower
“T”, shutoff, and even pump impeller.
Check/Replace as required: 1. You should hear the pump on starting the
Blazer and if you put your hand on it you will feel it running for
about 1 minute. Part #12560095 (AC Delco 215-364) Pump, Sec Air Inj for
1999-2000 L35 (4.3L) or #12568324 (AC Delco 215-425) Pump, Sec Air Inj
for 2001 L35 (4.3L) + 2000-2003 L43/LN2 (2.2L).
The GM # is on your current pump so check it because the Dealer is very
confused and/or out of these and will sub other pumps. You can remove
the pump and take the #25 torx screws out and see if the impeller is
clogged, rusted, melted, etc before spending $100-200 for it. Impeller
should spin freely.
2. Extend the air intake hose that ends halfway
up the passenger side of the radiator about 2 more feet so it can run
between the battery and coolant reservoir and push into the fender hole to keep dry. 99-00 is 5/8 heater hose and inline connector and 01-03 is 3/4 heater hose and inline connector –check size.
3. #12558992 (AC Delco 215-638) air injection
check valves 2 required – most stores sell these for $12-20 each or
Dealer $33 each. If they rattle or the hoses are burned threw replace –
should only flow air into the exhaust. The easiest way is to remove the
two 13mm nuts that mount the check valve pipe to the exhaust manifold
and use a vise to hold them – trust me here. The little exhaust gaskets
should be reusable.
4. #10217106 connect (hoses) 2 required check
valves to pipes (Dealer Only $7 each). If burned threw or hard/brittle
replace. Usually a good thing to plan on buying!
5. #12555165 secondary injection shutoff valve
(vacuum operated in the ¾” hose in the pump outlet to the “T” pipe
under the Blazer (Dealer Only $27). Only open when the pump is on and
vac applied. Also replace the 5/32” vac hose from the solenoid to valve
and solenoid to intake (about 4 ft of it). Once you extend the air
intake listen to the hose end and you should not hear any exhaust noise
after the short initial one minute pump run – if you still do the vac
diaphragm is stuck open/clogged/burned so replace. Vac is applied by an
electric solenoid mounted by the pump #01997264. The center vac port
goes to the intake Manifold vac and the off center vac goes to the shutoff valve above. The vac
should only be applied to the shutoff valve for that 1 minute as the
Blazer starts then is switched off. Hose clamps will be needed here.
6. #10105352 “T” for under Blazer where pump
outlet to both pipes connect – if yours melted! One end is ¾” and two
are 5/8”ends - but you can use a ¾” on all ends with a little lube.
Hose clamps here too.
7. The pumps 30 amps Maxi-fuse (large size) is
under a little black cover between your battery tray and inside the
passenger side fender. You may have to remove your battery to get to
it. Depress the little cover retainer and remove, then pull the large
fuse out to check/replace. There’s also a 10 amp small fuse to check
for the electric solenoid that controls the secondary injection shutoff
valve mounted by the air pump.
8. If you need the 2 lower hoses that connect the
metal pipes to the “T” going to the pump here’s the bad news – Dealer
Only and includes the pipes so over $100.
Car will pull if brake is binding...as soon as your speed cannot overcome the amount of braking being applied. Be careful when examining it the rotor will be much hotter than normal. (sometimes will turn blue and warp as well)