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My exhaust is a lot hotter on the right side then the left

It burns my exhaust hose on both sides and I have already replaced the impeller

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You do need a lot of water to prevent your problem. I think we are talking about an inboard or I/O unit. Make sure you replaced the flapper valves in the exhaust too. There should be a water pump on the motor as well as the impeller in the outdrive. Check to see if you have a sealed cooling system with a radiator or an open system using only outside water. There may be a thermostat in the motor in either case. Do not run a boat above idle when you use muffs and a hose. Everyones water pressure is different at the tap.
The closed system uses an intercooler and a radiator. You can have the same radiator problems as a car and you should always use antifreeze in the radiator to prevent rust. If the right side is hotter then it is probably more blocked.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

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Willim Moore. my name is Bart and I have a 1977 110 9.8 mercury outboard I jubt purchased and i cant get water to shoot out the *** hole. The impeller looks fine and I can blow air through the hose, its...


Those had a small channel from the water tube to the exhaust side plate which loved to fill with small rocks or old impeller parts. The exhaust plate had 2 gaskets on a baffel which could also leak exhaust into the water jacket.

Try putting a small hose on that tube and see if it will circulate water freely thru the motor and out the *** hole. One warning is.- if the side plate has a hole in it it can put water right in the piston. If that proves to be the case- repair it right away and oil down the motor to prevent corrosion.

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DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection
P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM) detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an internal test to confirm.

Circuit Description:
This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn threw the rubber hose, and even melt the lower “T”, shutoff, and even pump impeller.

Check/Replace as required:
1. You should hear the pump on starting the Blazer and if you put your hand on it you will feel it running for about 1 minute. Part #12560095 (AC Delco 215-364) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 1999-2000 L35 (4.3L) or #12568324 (AC Delco 215-425) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 2001 L35 (4.3L) + 2000-2003 L43/LN2 (2.2L).
The GM # is on your current pump so check it because the Dealer is very confused and/or out of these and will sub other pumps. You can remove the pump and take the #25 torx screws out and see if the impeller is clogged, rusted, melted, etc before spending $100-200 for it. Impeller should spin freely.

2. Extend the air intake hose that ends halfway up the passenger side of the radiator about 2 more feet so it can run between the battery and coolant reservoir and push into the fender hole to keep dry. 99-00 is 5/8 heater hose and inline connector and 01-03 is 3/4 heater hose and inline connector –check size.

3. #12558992 (AC Delco 215-638) air injection check valves 2 required – most stores sell these for $12-20 each or Dealer $33 each. If they rattle or the hoses are burned threw replace – should only flow air into the exhaust. The easiest way is to remove the two 13mm nuts that mount the check valve pipe to the exhaust manifold and use a vise to hold them – trust me here. The little exhaust gaskets should be reusable.

4. #10217106 connect (hoses) 2 required check valves to pipes (Dealer Only $7 each). If burned threw or hard/brittle replace. Usually a good thing to plan on buying!

5. #12555165 secondary injection shutoff valve (vacuum operated in the ¾” hose in the pump outlet to the “T” pipe under the Blazer (Dealer Only $27). Only open when the pump is on and vac applied. Also replace the 5/32” vac hose from the solenoid to valve and solenoid to intake (about 4 ft of it). Once you extend the air intake listen to the hose end and you should not hear any exhaust noise after the short initial one minute pump run – if you still do the vac diaphragm is stuck open/clogged/burned so replace. Vac is applied by an electric solenoid mounted by the pump #01997264. The center vac port goes to the intake Manifold vac and the off center vac goes to the shutoff valve above. The vac should only be applied to the shutoff valve for that 1 minute as the Blazer starts then is switched off. Hose clamps will be needed here.

6. #10105352 “T” for under Blazer where pump outlet to both pipes connect – if yours melted! One end is ¾” and two are 5/8”ends - but you can use a ¾” on all ends with a little lube. Hose clamps here too.

7. The pumps 30 amps Maxi-fuse (large size) is under a little black cover between your battery tray and inside the passenger side fender. You may have to remove your battery to get to it. Depress the little cover retainer and remove, then pull the large fuse out to check/replace. There’s also a 10 amp small fuse to check for the electric solenoid that controls the secondary injection shutoff valve mounted by the air pump.

8. If you need the 2 lower hoses that connect the metal pipes to the “T” going to the pump here’s the bad news – Dealer Only and includes the pipes so over $100.

Good luck and thank you for using Fixya.

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1 Answer

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