Question about Philips 26MF605W/17 Television

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Power supply squeal magna.26MF605W/17

Tv had blown fuse and main switching transistor was shorted. Replaced w/ original part. Screen comes up and looks good. When backlight turns on, main xformer squeals. +24v has a tiny ripple. +18v ? drops to 16 when on. The last tv I saw w/ this power supply also had the sagging 18volts. If it is 18.

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  • dachshock Jun 18, 2009

    Thanks rulds2008. A 2nd opinion is nice when youve got a headscratcher. At 9000' in colo. Rockies, techs are REALLY scarce. Proceeding forward w/ fingers crossed.

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  • Philips Master
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You need a higher capcitor as far as voltage if you got a sag, A power supply making noise is not a verry good sign period and this is dcomming from a eletronics engineer! There is something wroung with the circuit. I would sugges changing out the power supply unit due to a possiable problem with the rails.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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If fuse blows off, the power supply regulator section circuit to your TV should be checked in detail. Check all the rectifier diodes first. Then check the main switching transistor for short. The work is a semi skilled one. For more information, check the link http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

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I suspect the power supply problem, that will be the first place to look.
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed ACER monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
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Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.

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DO NOT REPLACE THE FUSE !!! You will do more damage.

I just repaired one of these. A small ceramic surface mounted cap very near where the +/- 85 volt connectors plug onto the board blew up.

This left a sputtered mess on the insulating material at the right rear corner of the power supply.

The net parts list of parts I had to replace:

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2. One 1N4148 surface mount diode that is for gate drive speedup. D24 and D25. (don't remember which one was shorted)

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4. Transistor T9, suface mount BC856B (PNP)

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Lots of destruction and one really needs a desoldering station to work this. Removal of the blown IGBT's is especially tough. All solder must be removed from the transistor leads AND the thermistor on one of the heat sinks. Once you have verified the leads are loose, one has to rock the heat sinks to get the tabs free. The tabs are NOT soldered! Be careful when restoring to get the thermistor leads started in their holes.

Note: ALL these repair parts were procured from DigiKey.com and Mouser.com. Neither of these places had all, I had to order from both. Mouser had the ceramic resistors.

When restarting this, leave outputs disconnected until it is running again. USE a series 75 watt light bulb in the 120 volt input. ONLY work on the unit using an isolation transformer as a large portion of this is connected right to the power line.

There is a small 15 volt switching supply that comes on first that runs the relay to short out the inrush limiting resistors. With the 2153 shorted as usual, this auxilary supply can't reach voltage enough to turn on the relay. The power for this is supplied through the ceramic resistors.

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