Question about Kenmore Dryers

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Kenmore Advantage Automatic dryer (Model# 69831). This unit was working 2 dats ago and now wont start. We have checked the breaker and it has not been fliped. We think that there might be an internal breaker box or heat sensor that has been tripped. What do you think the problom is?

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  • iansmithwc Jun 17, 2009

    I'm haveing trouble getting the back panel off. I've remove all the screws but everything is holding steady and not budging. I'm worried that I will bend the metal if I try to force it. Is there some kind of secret to getting the back off?

  • iansmithwc Jun 17, 2009

    "It sound it need a new thermal fuse.
    This is located the on the back of the dryer neat the exhaust vent, you will have to take the panel off to see it, it is white and about 1 1/2 long by 1/4 wide."

    I have tried to get into the dryer by taking off the panel but am finding this extremly difficult. Is there a step by step giude to get into this dryer or a picture or video would be even better.

  • iansmithwc Jun 17, 2009

    Neither of these are showing me how to get the back panel of off the dryer. Also do you agree with Kevin000 that it sound like a thermal fuse issue?

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I can better help you locate and disassemble your dryer with a FULL model #.
69831 is not a valid kenmore model.

Please use "Continue with this expert" option and reply with the entire model #.

Thanks!!

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

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Davesrepair.com/pdfmanuals/km27indrymanual.htm

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • SABARI ANAND
    SABARI ANAND Jun 17, 2009

    rakerappliancerepair.com/Course_catalog/Samples/Manual Samples/Manual01_sample.pdf

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It sound it need a new thermal fuse.
This is located the on the back of the dryer neat the exhaust vent, you will have to take the panel off to see it, it is white and about 1 1/2 long by 1/4 wide.

Let me know if you need further assistance

Thanks
Kevin

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • Legin Varghese
    Legin Varghese Jun 17, 2009

    These might be small plastic latch if you have remover the screws, don't force else will break the latch.

    K

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1. turn your breaker off 2 remove the area where the connections come into the dryer check there if all is good there go to 3 3 check the plug 4 check the wall connector 5 check connections at the breaker
as always follow safety guidelines when working on high voltage this is 220 volts
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My dryer wont heat up when it drying


Your issue is as follows:
"the dryer works but there is no heat to dry the clothes. model no/stock no- 86983100-69831 kenmore ultra fabric care soft heat dryers"

Based on the information provided above, I am unable to provide a positive solution to your issue. Your model number is invalid. I have provided some common solutions to help guide you in your search.


Following this link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides valuable D.I.Y. safety information on the make and model number of your appliance. In order to access your product information, you will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual.

Note: A volt-ohm meter is beneficial in performing electrical tests.

This information is for an electric, generic model dryer only!

My Solution is:
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Temperature Switch; make sure a positive heat selection has been made, if still no heat, then check these:



Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house: Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element: Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse: On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring: A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


In an effort to improve the quality of my answers, please show your appreciation by rating my solution.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Jul 17, 2008 | Dryers

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