Question about Refrigerators

1 Answer

When in automatic defrost mode, water drips from the front left hand vent below the freezer unit into the fridge below. The water should flow through the pipe at the rear, down to the basin in the base of the fridge. When we do a manual defrost the pipe at the rear does eventually work, indicating it is proably blocked with ice somewhere immediately below the freezer. My unit as follows: Model Nbr: TM516 N1L (Top Freezer) Mfgring number: P1109804WL S/n: 9004109589 The fridge is located in South of France where there are no Amana representatives and I believe purchased around 1993 Can you help and is the solution relatiuvely simple for a non expert?> Colin Cook

Posted by on

  • 2 more comments 
  • colin cook Jun 17, 2009

    Re Amana top freezer fridge model TM516 N1L

    Thank you for your prompt and encouraging proposed solution - to use compressed air to unblock possible sludge or mould in the pipe. Although I am prepared to believe the pipe is blocked, I am not sure where I would apply the compressed air (I assume I can use a bicyle pump or similar?), Although I can get at the end outside the freezer, I imagine I would need to apply the air to the topmost point, presumably under the floor of the freezer compartment; how would I get to it?

    Also, the pipe seems to operate normally when we do a manual defrost i.e. if we turn off the power, open the fridge and freezer doors and allow to defrost naturally, then the water flows down the pipe, rather indicating the pipe is not blocked, except perhaps by ice which in these circumstances would melt.

    Can you tell me how far under the freezer compartmernt hte pipe goes and is it to some sort of reservoir?

    Following the above above comments are you still convinced it is sludge/mould blocking the tube?

    thanks

    Colin Cook


  • colin cook Jun 17, 2009

    Re Amana top freezer fridge model TM516 N1L

    Thank you
    for your prompt and encouraging proposed solution - to use compressed
    air to unblock possible sludge or mould in the pipe. Although I am
    prepared to believe the pipe is blocked, I am not sure where I would
    apply the compressed air (I assume I can use a bicyle pump or
    similar?), Although I can get at the end outside the freezer, I imagine
    I would need to apply the air to the topmost point, presumably under
    the floor of the freezer compartment; how would I get to it?

    Also,
    the pipe seems to operate normally when we do a manual defrost i.e. if
    we turn off the power, open the fridge and freezer doors and allow to
    defrost naturally, then the water flows down the pipe, rather
    indicating the pipe is not blocked, except perhaps by ice which in
    these circumstances would melt.

    Can you tell me how far under the freezer compartmernt hte pipe goes and is it to some sort of reservoir?

    Following the above above comments are you still convinced it is sludge/mould blocking the tube?

    thanks

    Colin Cook

  • colin cook Jun 18, 2009

    Thank you for your explicit directions to test the defrost unit; I agree that this is a much more likely cause but have done the following:

    1. unfortunately, I do not have a tester here in France so am reluctant to take out the whole unit, so, I have waited till the fridge stopped running and the drip started (this might or might not signify something in itself). The drip started and I turned the switch about 1/10 inch clockwise (about 1 minute), immediately the fridge restarted. This would indicate that the switch is operating but not that the timer is operating, I think; does this give any further clues?

    2. I took off the back plate and disconnected the tube at the top and poured water down it; it flowed perfectly and immediately into the bowl underneath. However, until your comments yesterday, I had thought the blockage might be inside the 'fridge, caused by ice; is there anything I can do in that direction? (At the time I disconnected the virtical pipe, the drip inside the fridge (see 1 above), was active, but no water was coming out of the fridge, tho' it was wet)

    3. I revacuumed the cooling radiators, compressor and compressor fan under the fridge. Could this have an effect?

    4. The fridge is now working again but it will be some time before I am likely to see a drip (or not!).

    I very much appreciate your help and suggestions, if you could give me quick thoughts on the actions above, I will leave you in peace and sign out. Oh thank you too for the excellent suggestion to contact a local repair shop; I shall have to exercise my not so good French and find one as a last resort.

    Again thank you

    Colin Cook

  • colin cook Jun 18, 2009

    Very helpful and the Guru worked with me, responding helpully to my comments and questions

    Thank you

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

The drip pipe is not frozen - it is most likely backed up with sludge or mold.
Use a bit of compressed air to blow out the tube.
Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 17, 2009

    The tube should exit the fridge almost immediately after the freezer compartment.

    SEE THIS ILLUSTRATION for the location of the drip tube #23.

    Most likely the bottom panel in the freezer must be removed to access the drip tube.

    Compressed air should be used - from an air compressor - approximately 40psi.

    Also - a good way to eliminate the moisture is to spray a little electrical contact spray in the tube, and flush it through with air.

    The cleaner will evaporate and take the water with it.

    If you have additional concerns - please use the "Continue with this Expert" option so we are connected in the future.



    Thanks!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 17, 2009

    this tube simply empties into a drip tray in the bottom of the fridge where it evaporates (eventually).

    --sorry, i forgot to include it in the previous post--

    :D

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 17, 2009

    There could also be another problem you are having other than a drainage problem.

    The freezer is on a defrost timer, and should warm up so that the ice buildup will drain to the bottom pan.

    If that timer has failed... the freezer will never defrost and will never allow the water to drain (as it will be frozen at the top... (like you are experiencing.)

    THIS DIAGRAM shows the defrost timer as part #11



    However - some retro-fitting of a different part will be required as your fridge is no longer supported by the manufacturer.



    An appliance repair shop should be able to steer you in the right direction with a similar part number or replacement part (possibly used).



    If you feel like replacing or testing the defrost timer yourself - you will need a part number off the old one to find a replacement.



    You can test it for proper operation by...



    Before you begin to test your defrost timer, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.



    Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.


    1. Locate your defrost timer. It can be located behind the refrigerator's lower kickplate, in the refrigerator's control panel, or even behind the refrigerator on its back wall. Yours is behind the kickpanel near the front of the unit. Defrost timers almost always have four metallic terminals extending from the bottom. Once you have found your refrigerator's defrost timer, remove it for testing.


    2. A defrost timer is usually secured inside a refrigerator with at least one screw, but sometimes more. Remove all the screws you find and pull the timer carefully out of the refrigerator. Pull it out far enough so that you can disconnect its wires. Pull firmly on the wire's connectors to remove them. You may need to rock them back and forth a little to ease the motion. Don't worry about which way the connector comes out because there is only one way it can go back in.


    3. Use your multitester to test the timer for continuity. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place one of the tester's leads on the coommon terminal. It should be labeled "3" or "C". If none of the terminals are labeled, you can locate the common terminal by determining which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug. With one multitester lead (probe) touching the common terminal, touch the other lead to the other three remaining terminals, one at a time. Testing the first pair should produce a reading of zero, or near zero, denoting continuity. The second pair may also result in a reading of zero or near zero. Testing the third pair of terminals should produce a reading of infinity.


    4. Find your refrigerator's timer switch and turn it in a clockwise motion until it clicks. Use your multitester and test the terminals again in the same manner as in the preceding paragraph. In this test, one of the pairs of terminals should produce a reading of continuity. At least one pair, but maybe two, should produce a reading of infinity. One important note to keep in mind is that a pair of terminals that demonstrated continuity in the first test should now demonstrate infinity. Likewise, a pair of terminals that demonstrated infinity in the first test should now demonstrate continuity.


    5. If the test you conduct with your defrost timer does not produce these results, then you should replace the mechaninsm.

    Good Luck!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 18, 2009

    Cleaning the coils was a great idea - it allows the compressor to work more efficiently... However the thermostat/defrost timer are what tell the compressor to turn on/off.

    You can blow out the other end of the tube the same way. It will push anything in the tube out into the freezer - but likely wont make much of a mess - as it isnt a very big tube :D



    That tube really doesnt see much water - it is only there to catch the condensate from the evaporator. If it is a humid day - there will be more condensate than others... but typically - if the defrost timer is working properly - it should not drip much at all.



    Good luck to you and finding replacement parts.

    I took 9 years of French in gradeschool, and even that is not enough to "get by" :D

    The trick is finding a shop that speaks not-so-good english :)



    Thanks for using FixYA!!

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Water is dripping inside the unit coming from the vent below the freezer.


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1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but fridge isn't cooling, cleaned the coils underneath and the port between the freezer and fridge is clear of ice


Hello,

All of the cooling in refrigerators is normally done in the freezer compartment. A fan circulates cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment to cool it. Most likely this fan has quit working.
Also note that,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. mostly, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since the unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.Hope this helpout , Good luck

Aug 02, 2010 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

2 Answers

My top freezer works but the refrigerator is not cooling


Hello,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.


Hope this helpout

Aug 01, 2010 | Kenmore 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

FREEZER MAKING ICE, BUT FOOD IS THAWING


If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.

Apr 05, 2010 | Frigidaire 14.1 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

1 Answer

Dripping from freezer


WATER DRIPPING FROM THE FREEZER DOWN TO THE FRIDGE SECTION MEANS YOU HAVE A CLOGGED DRAIN, WHEN THE FRIDGE GOES INTO DEFROST CYCLE, IT MELTS THE ICE FROM THE COIL, THIS WATER HAS TO GO DOWN THE DRAIN TO THE TRAY LOCATED UNDER THE FRIDGE BY THE COMPRESSOR, BUT SINCE UR DRAINIS IS FROZEN, THE WATERS HAS TO FIND ITS WAY OUT SOMETIMES DRIPS TRU THE AIR VENT, AN RUNS DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FRIGDGE SIDE, AN WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR YOU WONT SEE IT, BUT U WILL NOTICE THE WATER ON THE FRONT LATER U JUST WONT KNOW WHERE IT CAME FROM...!

IF THE FAN IS NOT RUNNING YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REMOVE THE PANEL ON THE FREEZER SIDE AN SEE WHAT IS GOING ON, A BAD DEFROST DRAIN CAN CAUSE ICE ACCUMULATIONS TO THE POINT WHERE THE ICE WOULD BE SO MUCH AN NOT ALLOW THE FAN BLADES TO SPIN, CAUSING THE FAN MOTOR TO BURN, AN OVERHEAT , BUT THE PROBLEM WOULD BE THE DRAIN, AN THE WATER YOU SEE IS THE WATERR THAT MELTS FROM THE DEFROST CYCLE

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you have a drip pan under the frig dump it.. yes its defrosting

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4 Answers

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2 Answers

Refrigerator whirlpool model wrx38rwh6


sounds like a drain clog in the freezer compartment above. remove the freezer rear panel and totally defrost the evaporator area, directly under the evap you see( under all taht ice) a small drain hole that has become frozen over, try defrosting with either a hair dryer( not a heat gun too much heat youl melt everything) or by pouring hot water donw the drain until you get a free flow of water down the tube. after its clear reassemble and you should be fine

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You have a clogged defrost drain tube. best way is to thaw unit out. Your vents are being blocked so no air flow is pushed down.

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2 Answers

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Behind the panel in the freezer there is a drain hole that is underneath the evaporator.  It is frozen over.  Take the back panel off and get all of the ice out and run hot water down the drain until it is clear.  When the unit goes into defrost some of that ice melts and drips down thru the vent into the fridge section.

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