Question about Russell Hobbs 10617 Glass 2-Slice Toaster
The toaster elements heat but only one led turns on occasionally and the lever doesn't stay down. Any idea what the problem may be ?
Also, do you have an advise regarding the procedure to open up this toaster
Heres my two bob... This is not a solution but may help someone.... I copied this from my post to another question dealing with the same toaster and problems... Also, I noticed that, in simo_tomic post, he refers to the chip in question as an 63AB1B , whereas mine the label was blank or ground off.
I havent found a source for these yet. Anyway.... onto original post...
I've tried to repair one of these toasters today.
It would intermittantly work, eg led lights would work, and the toaster would actually stay down.
Most of the time however, no lights, no toast staying down.
By removing the power cord and re plugging it in, occasionally the leds would light, then the toaster would work, until it stopped again.
FIRST A WARNING! YOU CAN KILL YOURSELF IF YOU PULL APART A TOASTER, THE VOLTAGES ARE DEADLY, IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING DONT OPEN IT! GET AN EXPERT OR GET A NEW TOASTER.
I pulled it apart, which was a pita as they used 8x non standard screws on the bottom.
On the pcb board where all the leds are, there is a large 18 pin chip, labelled MCU.
I believe that this is the culprit, as all diodes, resisters, caps seem OK. The thermister is ok.
By shorting two of the pins on the mcu, the leds would light up, and the toaster would actually keep the toast down, and therefore work.
However, the B**stards at Russell Hobbs have chosen not to label that chip, or have ground off the label, to make it harder for people like ourselves to repair.
Plus the fact that they use security type screws to keep us out.
This should be criminal, as it just encourages waste.
For futher info, I shorted pins 4 and 5 briefly, (ie looking at the toaster, the 4th and fifth pins on the top/far side of the pcb board, counting from the right hand side).
When I short these pins the toaster leds light and it works, not a permanent fix however.
Anyone know a suitable replacement for the MCU in this unit?
Posted on Jun 16, 2010
May have screws on the bottom and the loader knob usually has to be pried off. Place soft wood like a ruler against the housing and pry carefully from side to side with a large screwdriver. After working on it, plug it in outside to a ground-fault ac plug on a fireproof surface to test.
Posted on Nov 30, 2007
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