Question about Inverter Welding Tools
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: How to TIG Weld
TIG stands for Tungsten Inert Gas welding. Also called GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) and Heliarc® which was Linde's trade name for the TIG process when it was introduced many years ago. The arc is started with a tungsten electrode shielded by inert gas and filler rod is fed into the weld puddle separately. A slower process than MIG, it produces a more precise weld and can be used at lower amperages for thinner metal and can be used on exotic metals. TIG does require quite a bit more time than MIG to learn. It is similar in technique to gas welding.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
SOURCE: bad tig weld job
Wow you have a lot of variables here. Let's go over some of them.1.AC current 2.100%argon shield gas 3.Check your Tungsten, it must be the recommended 1or 2% and the right size, clean and the tip rounded by meting 4. High freq. turned to continous-not just "START"
5. CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN your Alum. with a S.S. brush that has touched NOTHING else in in it's life!
Start here and GOOD luck
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Odd noises other than the normal sound of the spark gap working are often the result of dust and junk inside the case of your welder. That it also bogs down when it gets warmed up (fan comes on), also points to a need for some "annual maintenance" stuff being done.
Completely isolate the machine from the building power supply, pul the plug, open the circuit breaker, do whatever it is that makes the machine have no connection to any power.
Take off the covers with a 10mm or 3/8 inch socket (can't remember which)
Use a shop vac to **** out all of the dust and debris out of the machine. Low pressure (40 psi) air can sometimes be helpful to dislodge caked on dirt. Avoid any metal tools near the capacitor bank inside the welder.
Wipe off the fan blades.
Clean the spark gap electrodes by inserting and removing a matchbook cover, a business card, or a piece of white cardboard several times. Inspect the electrodes and adjust them according to the manual that came with the welder.
Check all of the power wiring connections for tightness by gently tugging on them. Look for signs of overheating on the power connections and on the internal connections to the welding terminals. Check the range switch for heating too.
With the cover still off, reconnect the power and turn the welder on. Look for obviously vibrating laminations on the main input transformer. If you see one buzzing back and forth, or if you notice lots of wear and tear on the varnish coating of the laminations, shut everything down and repair the loose laminations with some anti-fungal high voltage varnish.
Turn the welder off, disconnect the power, and put it all back together. Then turn the power back on and weld something, if htere is still a buzzing noise you'll need a Miller tech to solve the problem, you likely have a bad input transfirmer.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
Check to see if the remote switch has been set, or if you have broken wire in your pedal lead. You might even want to open the pedal housing and take a look see. I've had more than my fair share that the contacts inside the pedal housing were worn or cooked. Good luck, hope it helps
Posted on Nov 15, 2009
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May 31, 2016 | Miller Welding Tools
1/16" (.062) - pre-flow .1 sec., hot start 20, amperage 70, Hz 100, balance 20%, post-flow 6.0 sec.
For pulse settings - set pulse width 60%, peak current 100, background current 30, Hz 1.0
1/8" (.125) - pre-flow .1 sec., hot start 20, amperage 150, Hz 80, balance 20%, post-flow 6.0 sec.
For pulse settings - set pulse width 60%, peak current 150, background current 50, Hz 1.0
3/16"-1/4" - pre-flow .1 sec., hot start 20, amperage 185, Hz 60, balance 20%, post-flow 8.0 sec.
For pulse settings - set pulse width 60%, peak current 185, Background current 125, Hz 1.0
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