Question about Fellowes DM8C Cross-Cut Shredder

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The wheel furthest from the drive motor doesn't turn.

The white plastic drive housing appears to hold the gears. Does the housing open easily & are the gears fixable?

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Most parts are available. But probably have to buy whole cutter asm.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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2002 Ford Escape 4x4 XLT 3.0 V6 My rear diff housing broke. Is it possible to just disconnect it (leaving me without 4 wheel drive) to safely drive it and no longer have the gears grinding on each other?...


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I don't know if they will even give you core credit on that one

You surely must know the vehicle has to be parked

The rear axles-- if they even turn-- will not have any gear lube
to the end housing bearings

Your done & need other transportation

Why did it break the housing?

Even if it ran dry & seized I doubt that happens often

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My motor just hums, but doesn't turn gears.


Remove the cover from the motor unit and check the drive gear. It is a white nylon gear and is just in front of the motor. It will be obvious if it is bad. Is your door stuck in the open position?

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I have a tp104 p3 intermatic timer and the clock is not working it looks like the motor for the gears are working but the clock will not turn


Motor has plastic gears.
Timer wheel has metal gears.
If metal gears are not turning, and clock is turning, plastic gears are probably stripped.

And metal gears might be dirty and rusted.
Look close where plastic and metal gears meet.

2 solutions:
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T-104 takes T-100 series 208-277V clock motor
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Grainger sells parts.
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Rear wiper quit on 2003 S-10 blazer. checked wires and they look ok. fuses are also good.


Good chances are that the motor has gone bad and will need to be replaced. It's a common thing for the rear wipers to stop working,

You can try this first if you got time:
Take the rear hatch apart (screws, spring clips, inner panel screws (12), etc) to get to the wiper motor. Close investigation, the gear box attached to the motor can be opened up. The motor obviously works since it chatters so something else is not working, makes sense. Opened up the gear box, the motor shaft drives a worm drive gear (plastic) that meshes with a gear wheel (plastic) that has an eccentric cam (metal) on the gear wheel that attaches to a metal arm that meshes with another metal gear arm that is attached to a long shaft that passes through the hatch door and terminates with the finely spline end of the shaft (where the wiper attaches to). As the eccentric cam turns around the gear wheel, the metal arm moves back and forth thus creating the wiper effect. Lot of action in a small space,(pretty cool actually). My basic philosophy is that if something can be assembled, it should be able to be DIS-ASSEMBLED (in theory anyway). So fiddling with the thing eventually led me to the conclusion that if you put the wiper nut on the end of the wiper shaft and gently tapped the nut, you could drive the wiper shaft (and its metal gears and arms back out through the metal housing (Oh, forgot to say that the wiper shaft was "rusted" in its sleeve and would not oscillate back and forth). At the end of the shaft (on the outside of the vehicle) there is a metal "washer" that was an incredibly tight fit (this washer holds the shaft from falling into the gear box) so you have to keep tapping on the end of the shaft to eventually drive the shaft past this holding washer. Once you get past the washer the shaft would not pass through its guide sleeve in the metal housing (remember, "rusted" in place, seized). So tapped it out with a Phillips screwdriver acting as a long punch. You can then cleaned the interior sleeve by reaming it with a long circular steel brush (3/8" diameter brush that is designed to clean out push rod holes) and polished the wiper shaft with fine sandpaper, then lubed and reassembled the whole smash making sure the wiper shaft now moves freely in its sleeve. Put it all back together in the vehicle and we'll see if it works. Fingers crossed. This may save you some money if it works.

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You have missed a screw about half way, there is one under a sticker.

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Gator lt wheel doesn't turn when in grass/ slips easily and need


only one wheel is driven in slow !
fast engages the other motor [2 wheels drive]
the wheels being plastic or poly wont grip & on the early gators as there is no speed controler in the system to prevent wheel spin!
only other way would be to add rubbr cleets to the wheels! or try changing to wheel barrow or scooter style pump up wheels
if you need more help just email me as i can help with modifaction process like more powerfull motor setup etc etc.
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My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com


The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

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2 Answers

Replace oster kitchen center base drive part


I'am the guy who posted the comment I found out how to do this.
There are 2 possible solutions the 2nd is not pretty, hope the first works for you it didn't for me.

1- The motor must be lock up, by placing a thin screwdriver through the holes in the base into the fan down into the motor,holding the screwdriver, remove the square drive from the top.The part you are trying to remove actually is screwed into a gear in the gear box, you will need a spanner wrench,(sometimes a strong pair of long nose pliers will work, engage the spanner holes,hold the screwdriver ,and try to unsrew it, you may need someone to hold the screwdriver,because it takes a lot of force to loosen it.These are regular threads,and unscew counter clockwise.

2- if #1 doesn't work-this will- but its not so pretty.The motor assembly attached to the gear box will have to be removed,it will come out as one piece
Remove the bottom plate,unplug the white wire from the speed control,and the blue- white wire from the board,also you will have to remove one of the brushes with the white -blk lead.
Now you will have to actually break off of the top plastic(bakelite)by whatever means you dream up (I actually used a small wood chisel to score a line, and crack it) once its cracked, it breaks apart easily.Once thats done turn it over and remove the four screws holding the gear box to the housing you will now be able to remove the gear-box motor assembly.
Remove the 3 screws from the top of the gear box pry the box open,remove the gear with the piece that needs to be replaced,now you need to get the piece unscrewed from the gear.I did this by locking the nurled end into a vise, and very carefully grabing the gear teeth with large channel locks(if you think of a better way thats great)it work for me,but I was very concerned about the gear teeth,you can't slip.
Try the new piece to make sure it sets all the way down to the bottom of the gear(it must or your head will be to high ,and won't lock down)if all is well,make sure everything is greased,and start re-assembly, the new coupler ,and the square drive will be the last 2 pieces assembled from the top, once again locking the motor with a small screwdriver.

Feb 11, 2008 | Blenders

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