Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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I have a maytag legacy series dryer abt. 6 years old with moisture sensor. It stopped running. I checked the plug in (4 prong) and noticed that the black wire has burnt through and detached from the dryer. Should I try and get another four prong and reattach (I wld have to drill out the hole for the black wire attachment) or call someone? Also, was it attached right in the first place? (on the top: from L to R was black, white, red and on lower L was green). Thanks!

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  • jhlnewyork Jun 16, 2009

    I understand the idea of protecting the wires from heat but they came pre attached to a female adapter that the screw fit through and then secured down. My husband did the attaching about 8 months ago. Also, the hole where the screw goes into, is clogged with burnt debrie so I'd need to drill it out. Interestingly enough, for a while there, the dryer would work fine for a while and then would quit working. Now I think that was the wire burning out or a fuse blowing. Do dryers have internal fuses?

  • jhlnewyork Jun 16, 2009

    When I pulled the cover off, that's when I noticed the black wire had burnt through. Funny that my husband didn't notice this before--but I'm the hands on person. Is there anyway to know that I'm attaching the wires in the correct configuration? Now, I don't even trust the way my husband hooked it up to begin with.

  • jhlnewyork Jun 17, 2009

    Thank you. Would they be able to provide the right screws also? I've now talked to my husband and he said that when he hooked it up the screws became lost if you dropped one when you were trying to screw in the tails. They would fall in between the housing of the dryer unit. So he had to use some other screws. Maybe the ones he used weren't the right thread causing the problem.

  • jhlnewyork Jun 18, 2009

    Okay, I bought the new power cord and detached everything. But now I have another problem? The heat from the fried wire, sealed the original screw hole. I was able to work this muck out using a tool but now realize that something behind this wire plate has also completely melted, well in half. I can slide the metal plate (that has the screw hold in it) up and first saw a bunch of "corrosion" and pushed that away and then half a circular piece came away. I'm wondering if that was a fuse and if I can just get a new one and put it back in (but I'm not sure what it was sitting on). or do I call defeat and call a repair person.

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  • Whirlpool Master
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Replace the entire power lead for the dryer, u can buy them at most any hardware store for around $15.00, if the dryer had a serious issue the internal thermal fuse would have blown, also turn off the power to the dryer receptacle and pull the cover and check that for damage, if u are not comfortable with this type of electrical work and troubleshooting by all means call a service technician. REMEMBER ALWAYS TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE DOING ANY WORK TO THE WALL PLUG..

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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  • Marvin
    Marvin Jun 17, 2009

    I have hooked up many dryers and there has been a diagram inside all of them, but the hardware store person in a place like ACE can show/instruct u on proper orientation of the wiring connectors on the new plug/cable Assembly, forget Home Depot, no such help there, if u are not sure by all means please call a repairman.

  • Marvin
    Marvin Jun 17, 2009

    they will be able to provide all u need as long as u have an example of the screw or know what u are looking for.

  • Marvin
    Marvin Jun 18, 2009

    sounds like the thermal limiter fuse, try replacing it, u will need to go to a whirlpool parts center or a good applience repair store for the part, can't help u there. You will need the exact model number of the dryer for the right part.

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  • Master
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You may need to replace the wire as you mentioned but be careful to have them replaced in the right color for color..By the sound of this it seems that heat which has caused this.So use some protective stuffs for the wire against heat..

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

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Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle.

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