Question about GE WCXR1070A
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Dec 14, 2017 | Washing Machines
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first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt.
Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having
to take the washer apart.
The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.
The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.
The clutch: A
bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin.
Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you
have bad brakes on your car.
The transmission: The
transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common
problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor
pulley and the belt.
As you can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the problem and replace the part responsible.
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