Question about LG Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: lg refrigerator LFX25960SW
the answer to the problem from a LG training class is... if the bottom left side of the refer is freezing food the liner has split no fix at this time. some people have beEn able to turn off the ice maker and the food will stop freezing. the ice maker has a fan in the freezer that blows all the cold air up the ice making Cobby.
DO THIS ONLY IF OUTA WARNTEE
for most of you with bad ice makers you could drill a hole in the very bottom of the ice maker towards the front right under the little metal arm in the wight plastic AND DONT DRILL DEEP just enough to put a hole in the outer case then hit it with a blow-dryer for a little bit to remove ice that's blocking the gear on that arm this works 5 outs 10 times
Posted on Oct 29, 2008
The icemaker use an avaporator system with an heatinc coil and a fan to release cubes.
In your case either the heating coil or the fan in the icemaker must be replaced.
parts can be purchased from partselect.com.
Posted on May 31, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of. after the freezer freezes again, your ice maker will work again.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
The ice maker has two 1/4 inch sheetmetal screws holding against the wall upper left and one underneath the maker. Remove these and it should come out
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
Icing could be one problem. The first thing to test is the water supply to the machine. Shut the house off at the meter. Remove the line from the water valve at the machine. Insert the line into a bucket while someone else turns on the water at the meter for a 15 second count. It should come out forcefully, not weak or just dribbling.
If it's bad, then the line and the fittings where it connects to the house supply should be inspected, and cleaned or replaced as needed.
If it is O.K. and the machine is under one year of age, it is under warranty and you should call your selling dealer for a free service call.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks! Will try that out. I also grabbed some insight from other solutions posted for others, will try pouring some water into the ice maker and see if it processes that. That will tell me for sure if it is the entire maker or just the water supply that may be bad. "
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