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Is the power reaching the starter motor so it can spin - did you check that? If no power is reaching motor you have to back trace the wiring - power could be getting to the ignition switch but not reaching the motor. If power is reaching the motor and it does not spin there could be something wrong with the starter - if so check the brushes.
Sometimes the brushes wear and the spring that pushes the brush up against the commutator is not long enough with the shortened brush - replace the brush(es).
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Hi, had the same problem, it was like the main brush no longer fit into it's slot, so the brush cage would not latch. I discovered that the yellow bearing tip on the main brush twists off, and inside I found a lot of hair twisted around the pin. There was so much hair that it had forced the bearing tip to unscrew, making the brush too long to fit in the slot. After I pulled out the hair, the bearing screwed back on perfectly, and it works great now.
the compressor should be behind the panel on top . this is where the condenser is and the fan that cools it . remove the front and with a coil bursh ( this is a long like a ant eater looking brush. ) brush the coils and vacume the . clean the fan blades with te brush also .. mm
Drive belt missing or not properly installed on motor or brush/beater?
Perhaps foreign matter caught in ends of beater brush that are holding the brush tightly in place. Clean the debris away and hit with a little WD40, but not much. Make sure it turns freely by hand prior to putting it back into place. If the belt is loose, make sure it is replaced with the proper belt and installed correctly.
More than likely you have a worn brush. If the breaker was running good and then just stopped this is the case. These brushes have a pop-off feature that will stop the motor when it is time to replace the brushes. If you replace the brushes and are getting a lot of sparking, the armature or field more than likely may have a short. Sometimes its the armature, sometimes it's the field, and sometimes its both (running short). You have to have a short tester and a growler in order to test for the shorts. One thing to look for is any burn marks on the windings of the armature, and look for scarring on the inside of the field which may have gotten damage due to rubbing from the armature. An imbalance in the electrical field can push the armature into the side of the field while it spins.
Tilt washer sideways to gain access to motor. You will see brush holder modules (2 of them). Each has 2 screws holding it into place.as you remove one, replace it exactly the same way. Once installed, run machine. Cant explain how to embed brushes, so test full cycle without a load.
I Had the same problem, The brushes are operated by water pressure. Under the machine were the brushes are is a white peice of plastic pull this out and try cleaning the screen. I found this when I removed the cover and lubricated the gears at the brushes, If that does nto work you will have to remove the turbines and lubricate.
Here is a simple test to check field and other wiring. With engine off apply 12v ac 1 amp to 110v outlet plug on generator. This will energize the field windings and should cause the armature to produce dc voltage at the brushes and produce a nice magnet. If there is a short in the field or broken wire or shorted capacitor there will be no dc reading at the brushes. . This test is the opposite of what actually occurs when the engine is running. That is the armature produces a magnet fed thru the windings, regulator and brushes. If dc voltage is present at the burshes, remove 12v ac and start engine to check for output. enjoy