Same problem. I changed the coupling "the hard way"
I changed the coupling "the hard way". I disassembled the entire machine. removed the drums, auger and shaft assembly. I replaced the coupling, reassembled the shaft and drums.
I have the machine on level ground. Have checked the level on the external housing. Have checked the level on the inside drums. From one of your postings I made sure that I did NOT tighten the screw that holds the "dog ears". Every cycle on my machine works, however when my machine goes into the spin cycle.... let me tell you...the whole machine is dancing in my laundry room. HELP!!!!
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You have to disassemble the entire front of the snow blower. This means removing the snow shroud, auger bits and then getting to the impeller blades. I did it once and it took me about 1 1/2 hrs to complete.
Remove the process unit, remove the drum & check the waste toner
auger & gear assembly.
You will probably find this is seized or broken
due to excessive drum cleaning.
When changing the drum & developer,
you must reset the rotation counters as well as the drum/dev counters. Otherwise, there is excessive over-toning, leading to waste toner
filling the toner cartridge waste area too quickly & therefore
leading to waste toner auger assembly blocking up.
You will probably need a new process unit as the auger drive gear has been known to break off the frame.
There is new firmware for this problem. Have a service professional update the firmware for this device and the problem will be gone.
There should be bolts to remove on each outer end of the auger shaft, and the blower shaft must be removed from the rear bearing/pulley at the rear of the blower housing. Look for bolts to release the entire blower housing from the engine/drive section. On out Sears unit, there is a nut on the end of the engine crankshaft that allows the two drive belts to be removed. If you don't have the service manual, be sure to make notes of each part as it comes off of the machine (there will be many). Check the condition of each belt and also the rear bearing that the blower shaft came out of. The gear box at the front end of the blower shaft must come apart to release the auger shaft. This is not a job for the faint of heart! Good luck!
The agitator on your model washer is a split design. The upper portion is called the auger, the bottom is the agitator. It comes apart by followng these simple steps:
1. Remove the center cap on the auger by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap. Make sure you keep the gasket. This is used to create an air gap to keep water from leaking into the transmission, so make sure you seat it properly for a good seal when you reassemble.
2. If the auger is equipped with an inner cap underneath with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up.
3. Remove the center bolt of the agitator.You will have either a 7/16” hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut.If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8” to ½” ratchet adapter to remove.
4. With the center bolt removed, you can remove the entire assembly with the auger still attached to the top of the agitator, by grasping the bottom flange near the bottom of the tub and carefully pulling straight up.Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard.This will make this reassembly much easier.
If the agitator comes apart and you need assistance in how the parts go back together, refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" parts section.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
hi To completely clear any clogs in the washing machine drain, use a pipe auger (snake) through the drain hose and look out for any debris/cloth that might be clogging the hose. Remove the drain hose from the back of the washing machine. This is normally held in place by a clamp or a couple of screws. look for any clogging from the orifice which opens up for the drain. if this doesn't solve the problem, you have to open the machine to look for blockage in the drums, which is better handled by a serviceman.
That code is color drum motor lock (cmy). 440-1 is for black. Pull each drum unit out and look at the drum surface if one is not turning good it will have toner all over it. Could be that the drum is full of waste toner, but usually it is a backed up waste toner auger system. If that machine uses a fuser oil the oil has leaked down into the waste toner auger system and clogged it up.
This is a common problem with this GE and "lookalike" models. The dispensers first break the front plastic drum that holds to the auger and eventually cracks the rear circular sleeve as well. Pieces from the drum usually fall off and are even dispensed with ice ... eventually the drum is damaged enough that the auger no longer operates. The motors on these units, however, continue to operate.
You can receive the replacement parts needed to make the ice maker auger operate again by visiting the GE parts website. A usual repair will run $40-60. Unfortunately, the design of the replacement drum has not changed, so be prepared for this to happen again.