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Re: fuel filter in gas tank is attach to hose and connect...
The longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the two fuel lines, goes from
the carburetor to the bottom of the tank. Leave enough slack in this
line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank.
fuel line goes from the primer bulb to just inside the tank,
(about an inch). make sure that you get the right size fuel lines. The
plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This
keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
(HINT): When feeding the lines through the tank holes, cut the lines at an
angle. They will feed much easier into the holes. You can than cut them
off square, once you know that you have enough to work with.
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They start out around 8" and then trimmed to need length. The supply line has the fuel filter. The pickup line need to allow the fuel to move to all sides of the tank and the return line is inserted into the tank about an inch. after the line are in the tank the remaining length so that they only have a little slack in them once attached to the carburetor. Don't trim them until you are sure that you got them connected in the right order then you remove them, trim, and reinstall them. Note on Homelites they tend to use a grey line for the return and a black for the fuel pickup.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and install a pressure test gauge according to the tool manufacturers instructions.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 3 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two or three times to pressurize the system. Again turn the switch to the ON position.
On TBI equipped vehicles, the gauge should read a static pressure of between 9 and 13 psi (62-89kPa)
On SFI equipped vehicles, the gauge should read a static pressure of between 41 and 47 psi (248-325kPa)
If not, check for a clogged fuel filter, a kinked fuel line, or an inoperative fuel pump.
On TBI equipped vehicles, the fuel pressure will drop after the fuel pump stops running due to a controlled bleed in the fuel system. Use of the fuel pressure gauge will determine if the fuel system pressure is enough for the engine to start and run.
No fuel spray from the injector indicates a faulty fuel or ignition system or no PCM control of the injector.
This test will determine if the ignition control module is not generating the reference pulse or if the wiring or PCM are at fault. By touching and removing a test light to B+ on CKT 430 (purple/white wire from the ignition system), a reference pulse should be generated. If the injector test light blinks, the PCM and wiring are OK.
If the pump tests bad...
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Block the front wheels and raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely. Make sure the rear is high enough to accommodate the removal of the fuel cell.
Loosen the fuel filler neck connecting tube clamp at the tank.
Wrap a shop towel around the fuel filter neck connecting tube and slowly remove the fuel filler neck connecting tube from the fuel tank.
Position a siphon hose into the fuel tank through the fuel filler opening. Place the other end into an approved container with enough capacity to hold the fuel in the tank. Siphon the fuel.
Raise the vehicle to gain access to the fuel tank. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported.
Disconnect the tail pipe hanger attaching bolt.
Remove the muffler hanger attaching bolts and remove the muffler hanger.
Loosen the converter hanger attaching nuts.
Remove the two heat shield attaching screws and note the position for reassembly.
Support the exhaust and move the heat shield to gain the access to the right side of the fuel tank retaining strap attaching bolts.
Remove the in-line fuel filter body clips.
If the nylon fuel feed or return lines becomes kinked, and cannot be straightened, they must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair sections of the nylon fuel lines.
Disconnect the quick-connect fitting at the fuel filter, and return line fitting.
Disconnect the fuel tank electrical connector.
Disconnect the vapor hose at the fuel tank.
Disconnect the vent hose at the fuel tank.
With the aid of an assistant, support the fuel tank, remove the left and right tank retaining strap attaching bolts, and remove the tank.
As necessary, remove the fuel sending unit (which includes the fuel pump), as outlined, in this section.
Then you can change the pump:
Remove the fuel sender assembly.
Disassemble the fuel pump strainer and the fuel pump: Note the position of the strainer in relation to the pump.
See Figure 3
Fig. 3: Remove the fuel tank locking ring with a non-sparking (brass) punch.
Support the fuel pump in one hand, and grab the strainer in the other hand.
Rotate strainer in one direction and pull off pump. Discard strainer.
Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
Loosen the two connecting clamps, if equipped.
Place the fuel sender assembly upside down on the work bench.
Pull the fuel pump downward to remove it from the mounting bracket, then tilt the pump outward and remove it from the connecting hose or the fuel pulse dampener.
It is recommended to replace the hose and clamps, if equipped.
Push the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose. Attach the pump electrical wires and fasten the hose clamps to the attaching hose and around the pump body, where equipped.
Place the fuel tank sender and pump assembly into the fuel tank. Use a new O-ring seal during assembly.
Then put the tank back in:
If the fuel tank is replaced, transfer the fuel feed and return lines from the mounting clips, the vapor hose from the mounting clips and the vent hose from the vent hose fitting.
Check the fuel filler neck for cracks and holes and replace as necessary.
Install the fuel sending unit.
With the aid of an assistant, position and support the fuel tank and install the left and right tank retaining strap attaching bolts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs.
Connect the vent and vapor hoses.
Connect the fuel sending unit electrical connector.
Connect the quick-connect fittings as outlined.
Position the fuel sending unit electrical connector and fuel return line under the in-line fuel filter bracket.
Install the in-line fuel filter and new body clips.
Reposition the heat shield as noted during removal and tighten the retaining screws to 18 lbs. ft.
Tighten the converter hanger attaching bolts to 20 lbs. ft.
Install the muffler hanger and attaching bolts and tighten to 18 lbs. ft.
Install the tailpipe hanger attaching bolt and tighten to 20 lbs. ft.
Lower the vehicle, add fuel and install the fuel filler cap.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 3 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two or three times to pressurize the system. Again turn the switch to the ON position and check for leaks.
Small gas line goes thru fuel tank and has the in-tank fuel filter on it and connects to the outlet on the BODY of the carburetor. The other larger line goes from the Purge?Primer bulb on top of the carburetor to the larger hole in the fuel tank and is only a fuel return line. The fuel filter holds the small line in the tank and a small nylon connector holds the larger line in the tank or it can just be pushed thru 1/2-3/4" or so and it will stay in place.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Shift the vehicle into NEUTRAL and position it on a hoist.
Release the fuel pressure.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
Drain as much fuel from the tank as possible.
Using suitable hose pinching pliers, clamp the fuel tank filler hose.
Clamp the fuel tank filler hose in the location shown
Disconnect the three quick connect couplings from the fuel tank tubes at the tank.
Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
Disconnect the fuel filter inlet tube from the filter.
Position a suitable lifting device under the fuel tank.
Remove the two fuel tank support strap bolts.
Lower the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module while swinging the fuel tank support straps away from the tank.
Clean the area around the fuel pump mounting flange.
Disconnect the fuel pump module electrical connector and the fuel pump module fuel outlet tube.
Using the special tool, turn the fuel pump module retaining ring counterclockwise and remove it.
CAUTION The fuel pump module must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm, filter and convolute hoses.
Turn the fuel pump module counterclockwise and the fuel pump module will release from the locking tabs. Remove the fuel pump module from the fuel tank.
Install the fuel pump module in the fuel tank.
Connect the fuel pump module electrical connector and the fuel pump module fuel outlet tube.
Raise the tank into position and install the mounting strap bolts. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft-lbs (35 Nm).
Connect the fuel lines and electrical connectors at the fuel tank.
Lower the vehicle and refill the tank.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition key to the ON position to pressurize the fuel system.
The smaller line is connected to the fuel filter in the tank and goes on the carb body opposite the end with the hole in the cover. A larger diameter line coming out of the tank is the fuel return line and has the little connector on it just inside the tank to hold it in place there
It goes on the carb body (if primer is on carb) by the bulb.
If there is an external bulb...the small line is the same...there would be a larger line going from the carb body (nearest the end with a hole in the cover) to the smaller nipple on the primer bulb. A third larger diameter line would be connected to the larger nipple on the primer bulb and running to the little nylon connector inside the tank. This is the fuel return line and the smaller diameter line is of course the fuel supply line.
I'm so confused. This is reported as a Poulan and McCulloch pole saw, which one? Is it a pole saw? That is the only 445 Poulan I can find. It is reported as an electric but has a fuel routing problem.
If it is a Poulan Pro gas pole saw it is here: PP445 Gas Pole Pruner
The fuel system routing is terrible, but it is all there is.
Fuel Routing follows:
Tank to carburetor (hose in tank with filter on free end)
Carburetor to primer (primer draws fuel from the tank through the carb)
Primer to fuel tank (returns any excess fuel to tank when pushed) HTH
Your carb has two hose connections, one is the inlet and the other is the return. The inlet (suction side) won't have any barbs on it (smooth brass pipe). The return side will have barbs to keep the hose from popping off if the line is plugged and is probably plastic. The inlet side should connect to the fuel filter that will be dangling from the hose inside the tank. Make sure the filter is free to move around the inside bottom of the tank
The gas filter is located passenger side just forward of the rear axle. The band that holds the gas filter in place is a pinch band that has a nut welded/formed into it on the back/top side. A 12 mm bolt holds the band in place. The top of the band has a bracket that hold the return fuel line - this just pops off and the return fuel line can be reattached once the filter has been replaced. If your filter has never been replaced there is masking tape covering the pinch connections at both ends of the filter. Remove the masking tape. You need to put a pan under the old filter to catch any gas spillage - it will be minimal. Also the new filter comes with plastic caps on the ends of the new filter - you will want to use them to plug the old filter connectors so you need to take them off the new filter to have handy. Ther is a T off the inlet gas line that has a cap on it - remove the cap and press the needle in the T to relieve any pressure that is on the gas line - If it has been setting for an hour there will probably be very little if any pressure on the line. You can skip messing with the T and you will see about an ounce of fuel that will come out of the filter when you remove the hose.
To remove the connectors push the connector ring away from the filter housing. (I did the front first because I had more room). I used a paint can opener to help pry the hose away from the filter - it is shaped like a can opener but without a cutting edge - a large flat screwdriver would perform as well. It is a tight fit but once it starts to move it will come off. Once the hose is off use the plastic caps you took off the new filter to help hold the gas in the old filter. After removing both ends remove the holding band and place it on the new filter. The two lines will go back on easier than they came off, just push them onto the filters nipples. Put the 12 mm OR 10MM bolt back into the pinch band and reintall the return fuel line.