Question about Freestyle Mongoose Bmx & Owners Manual - Bike / Bicycle

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Rear brakes misaligned

I've tried to align my rear center pull brakes but one side is touching the wheel while the other is about 1/2 " off. How do I get both brakes to be equal on both sides?

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One side of a center-pull brake can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the cable itself (the side with a screw holding the cable in place)
The other side will have a small screw to adjust the tension on the spring.
Sounds like you need to adjust your spring tension screw.

Give it a full (360-degree) rotation and work the brakes a few times. If the problem is worse, then you need to adjust it the other way. If it's getting better, then you're getting closer.
Make several small adjustments, and work the brakes a few times after each one, and you should be all set.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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How to remove 2008 rear wheel fatboy


To remove a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST block motorcycle underneath the frame so that theweight of the motorcycle is off of the rear wheel, remove saddlebags if equipped, remove the belt guard and the debris deflector from the rear fork, inspect the wheel bearing end play and service the bearings if and as necessary, label the wheel spacers for left or right locationand orientation i.e. fork side or wheel side, remove the rear brake caliper from the caliper mount and support it using an elastic cord or such,For the FXCW/C modelsthe nut retainer will remain in the axle nut and does not need to be removed and if it is removed it must be replaced. For all but FXCW/C remove e-clip, remove the rear axle nut, and for FXCW/C remove the rear axle nut, loosen both axle adjuster screws an equal number of turns to remove tension from drive belt, with a suitable drift or other tool tap the axle towards the right side and remove it, remove the spacers and the caliper mounting bracket, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off of the sprocket, raise the motorcycle to allow enough clearance for removal of the rear wheel and pull the wheel with the belt sprocket from the rear fork.

To install a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle, to the bearing bores and to the bore of the inner sleeve, roll the wheel into place in the rear fork and slide the drive belt over the drive sprocket, position the left bearing spacer between the wheel and the fork, from the right side carefully insert the axle (with its washer for FXCW/C models) through the right rear fork, the short spacer, the rear caliper mounting bracket, the long spacer and into the bearing bore, continue sliding the axle through the wheel hub sleeve, the left side spacer and the left rear of the fork, install the washer, the axle nut, and the retainer, verify correct axle alignment and the check belt deflection, check the wheel bearing end play after tightening the axle nut to the specified torque because excessive end play can adversely affect stability and handling and insufficient end play can cause bearing seizure, tighten the axle nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.5 Nm), install the belt guard and the debris deflector, install the brake caliper and pads, install the saddlebags, if equipped, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against pads, verify the position of the brake pads against the brake disc, rotate the wheel to check for any interference(s) or misalignment(s) and test the brakes for proper operation.

May 12, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Keeps pulling to the right


check wheel bearing condition and adjustment on the right wheel. Check that the pads and caliper is free on the disc rotor. Check wheel alignment. Check tyre size and tyre pressure . Check for free movement of rear brakes as a dragging rear brake will affect the steering. Check the rear end alignment as an out of align rear axle will affect the front end steering.

Apr 28, 2014 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pulling


Possibly a under inflated tire or a wheel balance weight got knocked off. A wheel alignment shop could repair this for under $100. If tires are balanced try tire rotation by putting the rear wheels on the front and front wheels on the rear. If it pulls to one side during breaking it could be worn out brakes or a leaking brake caliper. check inside of tire sidewalls for brake fluid streaks in the inner sidewall

Apr 22, 2014 | 2000 Ford F150 Flareside SuperCab

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How to install rear struts on a 1999 llexus


selectachapter.gif

Lexus Car ES, IS, LS 1998-06
Coil Spring Rear Suspension

Print


Hub & Bearings

Adjustment
Check the backlash in bearing shaft direction and the axle hub deviation. Maximum for backlash should be 0.0020 in. (0.05mm) and for axle hub deviation 0.020 in. (0.05mm).

7923lgb6.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Checking wheel bearings for excessive play


NOTE The rear wheel bearings are non-adjustable. If the wheel bearing is out of specifications, replace the wheel bearing.
Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Rear tire and wheel assembly Rear stabilizer link Rear axle shaft nut Rear disc brake caliper and disc Speed sensor Parking brake assembly at the wheel hub No. 1 and 2 upper control arm assembly No. 1 and 2 rear suspension arm assembly Toe control link Rear axle from hub assembly using a plastic hammer No. 2 rear wheel bearing dust deflector using a screwdriver 4 bolts and rear axle hub and bearing assembly from the axle carrier assembly

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    Hub on the carrier and tighten the bolts to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) No. 2 rear wheel bearing dust deflector using a screwdriver Rear axle into hub assembly No. 1 and 2 upper control arm assembly. Torque the new nut to the No. 2 rear upper control arm to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Temporarily tighten the No. 1 arm bolt. No. 1 and 2 rear suspension arm assembly. Temporarily tighten. Toe control link. Torque new nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Rear stabilizer link. Torque to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Parking brake assembly at the wheel hub Rear speed sensor Rear axle shaft nut. Torque to 214 ft. Lbs. (290 Nm) and stake the nut with a chisel and hammer. Rear brake disc and disc brake caliper
  2. Adjust the parking brake.
  3. Stabilize the suspension as follows :
    1. Install the wheel(s).
    2. Lower the vehicle and bounce it up and down several times to stabilize the rear suspension.
    3. Raise the vehicle.
    4. Remove the wheel.
    5. Jack up the rear lower suspension armplacing a wood block in between. Apply a load to the suspension so that the lower suspension arm is plkaced in a horizontal position.

  4. Fully tighten the No. 1 rear upper control arm assembly to 119 ft. lbs. (161 Nm).
  5. Fully tighten the No. 1 rear suspension arm assembly to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  6. Fully tighten the No. 2 rear suspension arm assembly to 119 ft. lbs. (161 Nm).

    Rear tire and wheel assembly

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE If it is necessary to replace the hub or bearing, replace the components as an assembly.


    Rear tire and wheel assembly If equipped with rear disc brakes, the caliper mounting bolts. Leave the brake line connected and suspend the assembly out of the way. Brake rotor or drum 4 bolts and pull off the rear axle hub O-ring

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    Hub on the carrier and tighten the bolts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm) Rotor or drum Caliper, f equipped with rear disc brakes and tighten the bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (64 Nm) Wheel

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. If equipped with air suspension, move the height control switch in the trunk area to the OFF position.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Rear wheel(s) Height control sensor link from the lower control arm Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor and wiring harness Brake caliper bracket from the rear axle carrier by removing the 2 bolts. Support the caliper with a piece of wire. Brake rotor Parking brake shoes and cable Cotter pin, lock cap and the nut holding the halfshaft to the rear axle Suspension member brace by removing the 2 bolts Halfshaft bolts and washers Halfshaft from the vehicle Strut rod
  4. Place matchmarks on the adjusting cam and body for the No. 1 control arm.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Nut and adjusting cam Nut on the axle carrier side of the No. 1 lower control arm Separate the control arm from the axle carrier No. 1 lower control arm Stabilizer bar link from the No. 2 lower control arm.
  6. Place matchmarks on the adjusting cam and body.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Nut and adjusting cam from the No. 2 lower control arm Nut and bolt holding the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier No. 2 control arm from the vehicle Nut and bolt on the lower side of the strut assembly 2 upper control arm set nuts and bolts Axle carrier with the upper control arm
  8. Secure the axle carrier in a vise.
  9. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Nut holding the upper control arm to the axle carrier and remove the control arm Dust deflector. Use a suitable prytool. Oil seal

    0996b43f802092da.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430

  10. Remove the 2 bolts and nuts and shift the backing the plate towards the hub side (outside).
  11. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Axle hub

    0996b43f802092db.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the axle hub from the axle carrier-LS 430
    Backing plate. Inner race (outside) from the axle hub

    0996b43f802092dc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the inner race (outside) from the axle hub-LS 430
    Oil seal (outer) from the axle

    0996b43f802092dd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Removing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
    Snapring from inside the axle housing Bearing from the axle housing


To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    New bearing to the axle housing Snapring to the axle carrier, using snapring pliers New outer oil seal. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.

    0996b43f802092de.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Installing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
    Backing plate to the axle housing. Do NOT install the bolts or nuts at this time. Inner race (inside) to the axle housing Axle hub to the axle housing Backing plate in position. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). New oil seal (inner) to the axle housing. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.

    0996b43f802092e0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Installing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
    New dust deflector. Be sure to align the hose for the ABS speed sensor in the dust deflector and axle carrier. Upper control arm to the axle carrier by installing the nut. Tighten the nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Axle carrier and upper control arm to the vehicle as an assembly 2 upper control arm set bolts and tighten the bolts to 121 ft. lbs. (164 Nm) Bolt and nut holding the strut to the axle carrier. Tighten to 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm). Bolt and nut connecting the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the bolt to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 2 lower control arm to the body. Align the adjusting cam marks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Stabilizer bar link to the No. 2 lower control arm and tighten the nut to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier and body. Install the nut to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the body. Align the matchmarks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Strut rod to the axle carrier and body. Install the bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the body. Tighten to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the axle carrier. Tighten to 136 ft. lbs. (184 Nm) Parking brake shoes and cable Outboard joint side of the halfshaft and align the matchmarks on the side gear shaft and the halfshaft. Coat the threads with clean oil and install the hexagon bolts. Tighten bolts to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Suspension member brace with the 2 bolts. Tighten the 2 bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Nut to hold the halfshaft to the rear axle. Tighten the nut to 213 ft. lbs. (289 Nm). Lock cap and cotter pin Brake disc to the axle hub with the matchmarks aligned. Install the 2 screws and tighten the screws to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Brake caliper to the vehicle and install the 2 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm). ABS speed sensor and wiring harness Height control sensor link with the matchmarks aligned. Tighten the nut to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Rear wheel(s) Negative battery cable

  2. Lower the vehicle and turn ON the air suspension switch.



0996b43f80207fdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Exploded view rear carrier assembly, hub and bearing-

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    WARNING Be careful not to damage the boot and ABS sensor


    Rear wheel(s) Height control sensor link from the lower control arm Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor and wiring harness Brake caliper bracket from the rear axle carrier by removing the 2 bolts. Support the caliper with a piece of wire. Brake rotor Parking brake shoes and cable Toe control link Separate upper control arm assembly Shock absorber from axle carrier Suspension arms No 1 and 2 from axle carrier Rear axle from carrier


    Wheel bearing dust deflector 4 bolts and axle & bearing hub assembly

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    4 bolts and axle & bearing assembly. Tighten to 48 ft. lbs (65 Nm) Rear wheel bearing dust deflector Rear drive axle Upper control arm. Temporarily tighten No 2 and No 1 suspension arms. Tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) Shock absorber. Temporarily tighten Toe control link. Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Fully tighten upper control arm. Tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) Height control sensor Parking brake shoes and cable Speed sensor Rear disc brake caliper Fully tighten shock with new nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) Rear tire
  2. Inspect and adjust rear wheel alignment
  3. Check ABS speed sensor signal

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Rear wheel Wheel speed sensor Axle halfshaft Brake caliper and rotor Parking brake shoes Parking brake cable No. 1 lower suspension arm bolt No. 2 lower suspension arm bolt Toe control link Upper ball joint Axle carrier from the vehicle
  3. Press the hub out of the wheel bearing, then remove the backing plate.
  4. Remove the snapring, then press the wheel bearing out of the axle carrier.

To install:

NOTE Use a new toe control link nut for assembly.
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, while using the following torque values:

    Backing plate bolts: 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm) No. 1 lower suspension arm bolt: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) No. 2 lower suspension arm bolt: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm) Toe control link nut: 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm) Upper ball joint nut: 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) Brake caliper support bolts: 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm) Rear wheel lug nuts: 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm)



0996b43f80208026.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Exploded view rear Axle carrier and hub assembly-ES 330

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Rear tire and wheel assembly Brake caliper support bracket Brake rotor Skid control sensor wire 4 bolts and rear hub and bearing assembly Skid control sensor

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    NOTE Inspect bearing back lash and hub deviation


    Skid control sensor Rear axle hub and bearing assembly with 4 bolts. Tighten to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm) Skid control sensor wire


    Rear disc Rear disc brake caliper assembly. Tighten to 46 ft. lbs (62 Nm) Flexible brake hose Rear tire and wheel
  2. inspect and adjust rear wheel alignment
  3. Check ABS speed sensor signal


Stabilizer Bar

Removal & Installation

  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the 2 nuts and left stabilizer bar link. If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a hexagon wrench (5 mm) to hold the stud. Repeat for the right side.
  3. Remove the 8 bolts, 2 No. 1 brackets and 2 bushings. Two types of bolts are used, so make sure the correct bolts are installed.
  4. Remove the stabilizer bar.

To install:
  1. Install the stabilizer bar.
  2. Install the bushing and bracket with the 2 bolts and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). Install the bushing to the inner side of the bushing stopper on the stabilizer bar.
  3. Connect the stabilizer bar links and tighten the nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Repeat for the right side.
  4. Install the rear wheels.
  5. Inspect and adjust rear wheel alignment.


Strut & Coil Spring

Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    CAUTION Do NOT remove the center nut to the strut at this time. The spring on the strut is under high pressure and can cause serious injury.


    No. 2 luggage compartment trim cover Left and right deck side trim box Rear luggage compartment trim cover Front luggage compartment trim cover Left and right side luggage compartment trim covers Rear wheel Rear wheel fender liner No. 2 differential support protector Rear suspension member brace Rear No. 2 lower control arm Mounting bolts and strut assembly
  3. Secure the strut in a vise.
  4. Compress the coil spring
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Upper strut retaining nut Suspension support Upper insulator Bumper Coil spring Insulator

Dec 26, 2011 | 1999 Lexus ES 300

1 Answer

1999 F250 4x2 - was stored for 3 months and when I tried to move it - the right rear wheel turns but the left rear wheel won't turn. Took off the brakes and caliper - still won't move. I can move...


Hello, The rear rotor has 2 sets of brakes on it. The other thing is to look for slight movement in the driveshaft when it clunks. Depending on the rearend, some have to have both rear wheels off the ground to turn each side. And of course the trans in Neutral.

With the rear wheel you have an Emergency brake and a drum brake inside the center of the Rotor.
The rear of the brake backing plate has a rubber plug which is covering the Star-wheel adjustment for those drum brakes. You can try to loosen the Star-wheel to disengage the Emergency brake shoes. You can try pulling the brake cables toward the cab, to loosen the cables.

If this does not help, your Emergency brake shoe probably rusted off the brake mount and is jammed inside the drum. The linings fall off the metal like banana skins. I can tell you that if the Emergency brakes are a State safety requirement, you need to consider new rotors because the drum portion is usually trashed with rust.

I hope my Solution is very helpful to you.

Jun 11, 2011 | 1984 Ford F 250

1 Answer

1994 f-250 4x4 7.5L 36x13.50 iroc swampers allinement shop said 6 degrees out of alinement what do i need to fix?


You need to ask them whether they are talking about 1 front wheel out of alignment to the frame or if 1 front tire is out of alignment to the rear wheels. Or are both front tires out of alignment in 1 direction?

You can sometimes have worn rear mounting bushings for the springs allowing the rear differential tube to canter to one side. This would be similar to the "dogwalk" condition that has the rear running off center to the direction of travel.

The best thing would be to go to a frame shop. The other conditions can mean the frame is tweaked or the rear tube is bent. You could try pulling the rear spring bolts, lay each one on a flat surface and turn the bolt while shining a flashlight under it. A slight bow in the bolt will allow more light to pass under the bolt. Then you will know if the bolt is slightly bent.

Once you know the problem, then you can do something about fixing it. If the right side front is +6 degrees off and the left side is -6 degrees off, the frame is curled to the right. A frame shop has the equipment to make bending adjustments. An alignment shop can only bolt on new straight parts the same as you can.

I hope I have helped give you some ideas; the Alignment shop should have told you more about your problem than its 6 degrees off. They would still have your business for the final Alignment after you worked on the truck, because an Alignment would still be needed.

Feb 25, 2011 | 1990 Ford F250

1 Answer

I have a 1999 cougar and the back end keeps pulling out to the right like my drivers side wheel is locking up. What could be causing this??


Hello, some of the Front wheel drive cars used a rear suspension system which requires an Alignment just the same as the front end. You can get the rear Alignment separately but it is usually a packaged 4 wheel Alignment. Jack up the back end of the car and turn the wheels and check for them turning hard. This will indicate a brake or bearing problem.

The rear wheels do have an Emergency brake which can cause problems dragging even when not used. The bonded lining falls off the brake shoe when it rusts and the lining falls onto the rotating parts and gets ground up. Sometimes you will hear a noise like loose rust as you stop and start at low speeds. You can also have a sticking rear Caliper or drum brake.

The rear hubs have bearings which can fail; usually you will hear noises or have vibrations when the bearings are worn loose. Your best bet is to remove the rear brake rotor and visually inspect the Emergency brakes and feel the turning of the rear hub bearing. If you do not have the rear brake assembly on the car it will be easier to work on the bearing. Bearings are made 2 ways. The Sealed bearings are replaced as a hub unit. The Serviceable bearings have removeable bearings and races.

You want to have the rear bearing in good shape before having an Alignment. The Sealed bearing hubs are the easiest to replace by removing and replacing only bolts. The Serviceable bearings can require punching out and installing a new race, then packing the bearing with grease.

Some shops do both Brakes and Alignment and some just do the brakes. You can fix what you can handle before getting an Alignment or pay for both jobs. I hope you find my solution very helpful.

Feb 21, 2011 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

I have a 2004 1100 classic when coasting or decelerating there is a noise like something rubbing coming from rear wheel that goes away as you accelerate


It sounds like the rear wheel is out of alignment, or loose. Could be a worn bearing. Torque is applied to the rear wheel as you accelerate, and lost when left off. If I am not mistaken, the rearend is set with a dyno machine at the dealer. Try putting the bike on a lift to get the rear wheel off the ground. Grip the rear wheel on opposite sides with both hands and lightly alternate pull right and left, and top and bottom. If you get any movement from the wheel, it is time for service as this is an indication of the bearings wearing out. If you recently had the rear end serviced, they may not have gotten everything tightened properly, or misaligned the rear wheel.

Jul 24, 2010 | 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

2 Answers

Rear Wheel Alignment


In regards to the front wheel, there is little or no adjustment to align it to the frame assuming that the fork tubes and triple trees are not tweaked/bent or loose and that things are torqued to specks. The unit in the bottom pic gets installed on the rear wheel, in other words the rear wheel is between the two plates in that pic. The dowel with the black sleeve goes through the spokes while the lower one goes beneath the tire to hold it in place.The yellow velcro strap holds the two halves tight to the wheel once installed. The brake pedal is applied to hold the wheel from rotating when it is in proper position.The two rods slide into the ends of those plates and extend forward to the front wheel to center the rear wheel using the adjusters on the rear wheel/axle. You can also use a wire like a wire coat hanger to make a jig to measure to the center of the rear axle forward to the swing arm bolt center. Take a straightened out piece of hanger and put a small "L" on the end of the wire about 1 1/2 " that would go into the center/indentation in the swing arm bolt. Use a small "O" ring or the like as a slider on the wire and slide it to the center of the axle once the forward end is in place in the center of the swing arm. Measure both sides and adjust accordingly to get them even. This is done also keeping the belt tension in mind too. This system works for most but using the setup that I have, the measurement is much more fine/accurate in that you are extending the rods to the front wheel and turning the rear axle adjusters 1/2 turn will see a big difference when extended 8' or so to the front wheel. I think you can see where I'm going here. Your best bet is to look in the factory manual, it describes the procedure pretty well.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2004 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI...

1 Answer

MOT Test


a) Sitting on machine check:1. All controls switches and horn 2. Front suspension forks handlebars and head bearings. b) At the front of the machine check: 1. Front lights and indicators 2. Front brake master cylinder (if fitted) c) Place the machine on its stand and raise front wheel check: 1. Steering, front forks and head bearings 2. Front brake and wheel bearings 3. Wheel and tyre condition. d) Lower front wheel and go to right side of vehicle and check: 1. Frame, VIN, seat and foot rest 2. Exhaust system 3. Final drive (if fitted to RHS of machine) 4. Rear wheel, tyre and brake e) Raise the rear wheel and check: 1. Rear wheel, rear brake/components and tyre condition. 2. Rear suspension and final drive f) At the rear check: 1. Rear position lamp(s)/stop lamp(s)/reflectors and indicators. 2. Rear suspension. 3. Registration Plate g) On the left of the machine check: 1. Frame and foot rest 2. Exhaust system 3. Final drive (if fitted to LHS of machine) 4. Rear wheel, tyre and brake. h) At the front of the machine check: 1. Wheel alignment 2. Headlamp aim 3. Brake performance,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2003 Hyosung GT 600 Comet

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