Question about Whirlpool 3.2 cu. ft. Washer
Dryer was running fine. Dried a load of clothes, took them out, put more in and it would not turn on. This model has the selector switch on the left side of the panel, heat setting in middle and signal buzzer / on / off switch on far right. Push the on/off switch and nothing happens. I have checked the power cord and have 240 volts to the terminal block. The big selector switch seems to work, ticking when a selection is made. I see no evident problems such as burnt wiring or anything loose. Should I replace the push on/off switch?
Hello Wpdodd, we're sorry to hear about your Dryer. Unfortunately we are not able to provide technical assistance. If you would like for us to schedule service for you then please email us your name, phone number, address, the model and serial number and the website you were contacted on (Fixya.com) to Whirlpool_Digital@Whirlpool.com.
Posted on May 24, 2017
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.
Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
have a solid state resistor for each heat setting you have a infinite ohm setting on high this tells the main board that you have an overload and therefore your high setting will not work. it's obvious that you know how to solder on a circuit board so just replace the resistor on the high temp path. your values are in increments of 10 so your high setting should register 50 ohms of resistance. this should solve the problem. please rate the solution........thanks
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
Removing the Washer Top
Three screws secure the washer top at the back of the washer. Remove the three screws and lift the top from the washer.
Removing the Console from the Cabinet
Disconnect the Touch Pad/LED Assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the Central Control Unit and release it from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top
Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out of the washer.
Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening. Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer
Open the washer door and place a flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot in the bottom center of the console. Push the console up to release center console tab. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.
Removing the Touch Pad/LED Assembly from the Console
The Touch Pad/LED Assembly is removed as a single unit and contains the Push Buttons, LEDs, cable, etc. The buttons can be replaced separately
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:
Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.
If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:
Remove the belt,
Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing,
Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.
If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.
If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.
Go here to see a diagram for your model:
one of two types. "H" or "J"
Posted on Nov 09, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 14, 2015 | Whirlpool AWZ410 Front Load Washer/Dryer
Aug 06, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers
Jun 27, 2011 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer
Sep 08, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
May 16, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...
Jul 02, 2009 | Frigidaire GLER341A Electric Dryer
190 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: