I completely agree. The screw mechanism holding the levers has to be really tight, more than I can manage, and if it isn't srcewed in tightly then the handlebars wobble. I was so frightened when I took it out for the first time, (having tried at the shop last Saturday - it was OK then), that I'm thinking of leaving it at the tip with a big warning notice about its safety (or lack of it). Also the handlebars and stem slid down unbidden. It's a pity as the rack, 20" wheels, lightness, fold and comfortable seat are what attracted me in the first place. Perhaps Dahon don't want women to ride it! A waste of nearly £300.
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If the problem is on the magazine's counter and if the spacing of frames is correct then the counter dial is loose. two screws on the outside front of the top of magazine, two screws in the film chamber hold the top cover. remove leather cover on winding lever loosen screw and remove. you can then remove the complete top housing to expose the counter mechanism.
I am presuming you are giving the gear lever a positive shifting motion when changing gears.
If the gear lever is completely tight on the gear shift shaft and the toe of the lever does not touch the engine sidecover when changing up, you may have a worn roller shift lever or loose screws holding this mechanism in place. See the exploded view diagrams of the SHIFT CAM and SHIFT FORK with all part names and numbers on the link below.
Usually caused by the clutch being out of adjustment. Start by loosening the clutch cable at the midway adjuster. remove the derby cover, (over clutch), which will expose the clutch adjusting screw and nut. Loosen the nut, turn the screw in until you feel resistance, no slack in screw, then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 turn, then tighten the lock nut. Pull the clutch lever a few times to seat the clutch release mechanism. Adjust the cable at the midway adjuster, holding the cable tight away from the lever. Adjust until there is 1/16" to 1/8" free play between clutch lever mount and the end of the cable housing. Lock the adjuster with the jamb nut and slide the rubber boot back over the midway adjuster.
Each leg lock has a leg locking lever and a screw that hold the clamp assembly tight to the leg. Unlock the leg lock lever, loosen the screw above it that holds the clamp tight to the leg. The legs should fit into each other sice each leg is slightly larger or smaller then then next one. Slide the clamps in the approprite places and tighten the screw enough to hold the clamp assembly tight, but do not over tighten it. Over tightening will damage the 679 tubes.
Just a thought, you might try to get a piece of chain at a hardware store and do it yourself.....might cost $3, maybe less. There is also a screw on the top of the lever the chain and float are attached to, you can loosen or tight it to change the way the toilet flushes.
You can also check on line at: www.howthingswork.com
Some calipers have a bolt holding the hand brake mechanism to the body of the caliper. hold the mechanism with a spnner or If yours dont simply lever the mechanism with a bar or long screw driver. Place a pair of lock pliers/ mole grips on the cable(not too tight or you'll fray/damage the cable) then remove the cable from the caliper. When you get the pads out use a screw driver or wind back tool to reset the caliper travel or you will damage the caliper or lose the hand brake altogether.
I had the opposite problem it may be that the lower tension is too tight (mine was too loose).
To fix it you have to take the bobbin case out completely to access the tension adjustment screw. - Remove the 2 screws holding the metal plate with a nickel and remove the plastic piece over the bobbin case - there is a small metal lever on the lower left side that needs to be pressed down. You can then remove the bobbin case. There are 3 screws - the center one is the tension adjustment. It was painted green on my machine. It appears that it is not a regular setting change, but a bad adjustment from the factory. So if you don't feel comfortable doing all that returning the machine for another will likely fix the issue.
A bobbin case for accommodating a bobbin which has a shaft portion and a collar portion formed on both sides of the shaft portion on which a thread is wound, the bobbin case comprises: an opening being opened on at least one side of an axial direction of the shaft portion, for detachably accommodating the bobbin; a thread take-up portion provided in the axial direction opposite to the opening, for pulling out the thread of the bobbin; and a holding member which makes contact with the bobbin and nonrotatably holds the bobbin.
Thank you - fixed it completely... though you have to take the bobbin case out completely to access that screw. - Remove the 2 screws holding the metal plate with a nickel and remove the plastic piece over the bobbin case - there is a small metal lever on the lower left side that needs to be pressed down. You can then remove the bobbin case. There are 3 screws - the center one is the tension adjustment. It was painted green on my machine. It appears that it is not a regular setting change, but a bad adjustment from the factory. So if you don't feel comfortable doing all that returning the machine for another will likely fix the issue.