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Frost build up behind/inside back freezer panel

Fan hitting icy frost build up behind back plastic panel.  need to know how to remove light and divider panel so i can remove back plastic panel and defrost.

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  • pnweightman Jun 30, 2009

    I am getting a refund!  This refrigerator had more than three inches of
    ice behind the back panels.  The freezer door was NEVER left open more than a few seconds and it wouldn't freeze ice cream.  Extremely poor design.  Beauty is only skin deep with this one.

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I have same problem, it usually happens after someone leaves door open too long or after 4-6 months. I usually place two frozen milk jugs full of water in the upper fridge and tape the upper fridge door closed at night before bed so the kids don't open and let the upper food get warm., Unplug the fridge and open the freezer and remove all drawers (place excess frozen food in freezer in garage) , leaving the freezer open with a towel in the bottom to catch the melting water from the back panels inside and the next morning wipe the fridge bottom clean and plug it back up and replace everything. I hate that I paid so much for this fridge and have to defrost a couple times a year. However found out too late to return back to the store. It seams like it should have a cycle that heats the back plate every so often to warm and evaporate the ice that collects, but I haven't heard or can't find anything on that.

Kimsukie.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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My whirpool freezer is ok but fridge not cool the fan is ok too


Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

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I have a Kenmore Elite Model # 795.75546401. Ice forms underneath the freezer drawer and I have to remove it weekly or the drawer wont open. I can not see any access to drain lines in the back or how to...


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heaterIf it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problemSelf-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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The motor is running, but the freezer is just cool and the ref. is warm. Some osf the lights are on and some are not.


Hi,

The cooling coils for both the freezer and fresh food sections takes place in the freezer behind the panel. The fan in the freezer blows the air throughout the freezer and into the fresh food side.

First check to make sure the fan is running inside the freezer, you will be able to hear it when you open the freezer door. Then check to make sure the fan on the outside is running. You can tell by pulling off the grille on the bottom front of the refrigerator and feeling air come out on the left side, it should be warm air and not too hot.

If these are okay then look in the freezer behind the food and shelves. Near the bottom of the freezer look for a frost build up on the back panel. If there is a frost build up then you have a defrost problem. If you see a little frost on the panel that means there is a lot behind the panel that is blocking the cool air from flowing.

Let me know what you see and I will help you from there.

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Both lights are on on the outside of my freezer. Things are unthawing. I can't find my owners manual.


Hi,
The one light should be for power the other for alarm meaning the temperature has risen, which you already know.

In order to help you better I need to ask some questions about the freezer.

First off, is this an automatic defrost unit or manual defrost?
Does it have a fan inside the freezer? If so is it running
Do you see a frost build up on the back wall of the freezer closer to the bottom?
Do you hear the compressor running (the black pump behind the freezer on the bottom)? It will have a slight hum when running.
Is there frost build up anywhere else like the walls inside?

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1 Answer

10 year old side by side fridge is slowly not cooling well


Hi there,

Well poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 
Evaporator coils - Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. 
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system- defrost timer, defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) or the defrost heater.
Secondly you can check Condenser - Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. Please post comments if you need more help or information........

Good Luck!!

Thanks

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Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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What you need to do is to remove the rear panel and thaw the ice build up. To remove the rear panel is usually only 2 screws at the bottom.....you will find that the panel is difficult to remove due to ice build up behind it, so gentle heat from a hairdryer is a good way to accelerate the thawing process....once the panel is removed, you will see the ice build up......mine was about 2 inches thick!!!
I used the hairdryer to thaw it all out and then once cleared, switched it back on and have never had a problem since.
By the way, my F?F is a Beko CDA563FS......the one with the water dispenser on the front and frost free.
Hope this helps

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