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The Water Inlet Valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. The valve is operated by electric solenoids that are controlled by the timer or electronic control board and the water level control/water level selector switch or pressure switch. If your washer continues to fill during a cycle, the water inlet valve could be at fault. To verify that the valve is at fault, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then the water inlet valve is defective. If the washer stops filling, then the problem is related to the electrical circuit that controls the valve. The water level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak or is plugged, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill.
To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level pressure switch may be defective. Inspect the switch for signs of a mechanical defect or debris plugging the hole in the inlet nipple. To test the switch contacts for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to apply the proper amount of air pressure to the air dome tube and then look for the switch to go open circuit at that level. The easiest way to do this is to start the washer and allow it to fill to the normal level and then remove the power cord. Locate the pressure switch and remove the wires from the correct terminals and then perform the continuity test. There should be infinite resistance or an "open circuit" when the water level is correct. If not, then the switch is defectiv
Here's a few instruction's How to Diagnose Washing Machine Problems
Step 1: If the washer won't start, check the power cord or reset the circuit breaker depending on the issue. It may be overheated and shut off temporarily. Let it cool for 30 minutes, and if it still won't start, call a professional.
Step 2: If the motor transmission failed or the drive belt has broken, these need the assistance of a professional.
Step 3: If the washer won't drain, clean out the drain hose and straighten any kinks. If the drain hose fits too tightly in the standpipe, adjust it to allow for a minimum of 1.25 inches for airflow so water can drain.
Step 4: If the washer won't fill or fills slowly, turn the faucet handles counterclockwise as far as possible. This is usually the result of partially open faucets.
Step 5: Call a profession if the washer overfills. This means the water-inlet valve or switch is defective.
Alarm code Description of fault User code Effect E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
Hello Kidia, I am happy to assist you. Is the incoming water flow normal? If it
is, does the fill water continue to enter the washer? If yes, disconnect power
from the unit. Did the water fill stop? If so, a service technician may need to
check the pressure sensor or switch to determine if it needs replacement.
If your water flow is abnormal,
double-check water faucets to ensure they are in the "on" position. If on, your
incoming water pressure may be above 30 PSI and could need adjusting. Check for
any kinked or blocked water hoses or clogged water screens. If you've cleared
the water screen and/or unblocked any kinked water hoses, and the problem still
persists, it could possibly be a water inlet valve assembly.
If you have checked all of the
above, the unit may need a main control board replacement. I would recommend
contacting a qualified service technician to further assist you in diagnosing
The usual arrangement is there are 2 electrical water inlet valves, one for Hot and 1 for Cold. These valves are turned on by the timer, and remain on until the water level switch turns them on, and allows the washer to then run. It sounds like this water level switch is bad. This switch should be in the panel above the top of the washer, and has a rubber/plastic tube that goes toward the washer drum. It is also possible that the rubber tube is off or blocked. (if the water inlet valve is stuck open, turning the washer off will NOT stop the water).
If the washer won't fill you'll need to check for the water
inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the pressure/water level switch assembly.
Inspect the inlet hose coming to the washer for any blockages. If the hose is
not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will
not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and
should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet
valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace
the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the
pressure/water level switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps...
Please post back if you need more information.
Electrolux E60 - NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED.
No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.
If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed. Or If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
If there is no water in the unit: 1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. 2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or blocked or scaled up screens in the inlet valves 3. Verify inlet valve operation
If there is water in the unit: 1. Verify Drain pump operation 2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
Verify there is not a siphon problem
Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Water Level Adjustment 1. To adjust, simply turn upper half of valve counter-clockwise to unlock, pull up till water line on valve is level with water line marked in tank, Fig.C then turn clockwise till valve snaps into locked position. 2. Turn on water supply to fill tank. 3. Tamper proof key is optional, and may be used to simply to prevent further adjustment once final setting is achieved. Fig D
IF YOU HAVE A FLUIDMASTER BALLCOCK,AND IF THE WATER IS CONTINUING TO RUN ,YOU NEED TO ADJUST THE WATER LEVEL,MOST OS THE TIME ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS OPEN THE TANK LID AND ON THE LEFT SIDE YOU'LL SEE THE BALLCOCK,AT THE TOP IT MIGHT HAVE A BLACK PIECE THAT YOU CAN SLIDE UP AND DOWN TO ADJUST THE WATER LEVEL,OR SOME HAVE A PIECE THAT LOOKS LIKE YOU CAN USE A PHILLIPS HEADS SCREWDRIVER,ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS TURN IT A HALF OF TURN EACH TIME UNTIL THE WATER STOPS GOING INTO THE OVERFLOW TUBE ,WHICH IS USUALLY LOCATED IN THE CENTER OF THE TANK AND IT WILLBE 1INCH ROUND ,IT ALSO WILL HAVE YOUR FLAPPER OR BALL CONNECTER TO IT.