Refrigerator runs fine on ac and dc but will not ignite on propane

The fridge in your 2012 Sterling 32RL is most likely a 2-way refrigerator. This means it can operate on two power sources: 120-volt AC power (shore power or generator) and propane gas.
Typically, 2-way refrigerators do not operate on 12-volt DC power directly. However, some RVs may have an option to run the refrigerator on 12-volt DC power while driving, using the vehicle's battery system. This is usually done through an inverter or a converter that converts the 12-volt DC power to 120-volt AC power to run the refrigerator.
To determine the specific capabilities of your fridge, it is recommended to consult the owner's manual or contact the manufacturer of your RV or the refrigerator itself. They will be able to provide you with accurate information regarding the power options and operation of your specific refrigerator model.

The solenoid gas inlet valve may be sticking or defective.

First things to check would be the receptacle that fridge is plugged in to at back for power to it. You may have tripped breaker as well. Either way, you need to confirm that you have AC (hydro) voltage going to fridge, as well as test for min 11-12 Volts (DC) to back of fridge where the DC voltage connects. The check light coming on tells me you have 12 Volts DC, but just confirm. With propane on, make sure you have propane to stove etc, then try starting fridge on propane only setting, and listen or watch outside at burner for ignition. Let me know if you see it sparking, or hear it sparking.

If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
mode.
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC


If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

The older units has a 3 VDC glow coil the newer units have a 12VDC igniter.

Fromwhat your described above the next paragragh is your ignition system.

The igniter control voltages in the newer SPARK type igniters are (+) = 12VDC, (L)= high voltage lead (Spark plug voltage! I.e ruin your meter type voltage), (-)= Ground L is the lead that passes the HV spark from the control unit to the ignitor plate. The L lead should pass one heck of a hit if is workng correctly.
If not look at the HV lead to see if it is grounding out somewhere.

If the gas safety valve is not sensing gas pressure... you will not have 12VDC to the + terminal of the ignition moudule.

With the gas on and you have 12VDC at the ignition module + terminal then most likely the ignition module is bad.


Kelly

Yes it can also run on 120 AC and 12 volt DC

Here is the website. If you need help in understanding let me know

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dometic-rm2193-compact-refrigerator/13473